torque to yield harmonic balancer LS1

[motorheadmike]

I have used the stock bolt numerous times. And the ARP bolt once. I clean the threads and use ARP lube. All of my cranks are pinned to avoid unwanted slippage.

For the torque to angle, mark the pulley (start point, and end point), mark the bolt head, torque to the base spec, and turn it approximately 140°. I just eyeball it.

 

[doood]

I have used the stock bolt numerous times. And the ARP bolt once. I clean the threads and use ARP lube. All of my cranks are pinned to avoid unwanted slippage.

For the torque to angle, mark the pulley (start point, and end point), mark the bolt head, torque to the base spec, and turn it approximately 140°. I just eyeball it.

Hey thanks. I was making this way too complicated I torqued the crank bolt to 40 lb today, drew a match mark, and used a 3 foot breaker bar to torque the match mark to 120 degrees in one motion and then a second motion to eyeball, went back and measured 150 with the gauge. I'm making this stuff way too complicated. I see forum threads where people are describing difficulty torquing the crank bolt and I did not have that difficulty; got it done on the engine stand too.


Definitely, definitely, definitely not torque to yield. In my opinion very reusable also. no way that bolt yielded