Upgrade rear suspension pic's

[FE3X CLONE]

So I took it in to the alignment shop and the uppers came loose. He put them back and they have been good ever since (but I am always paranoid now, have actually took it in 3 times since then to get them checked because I thought they might be loose lol). And my exhaust guy said he loved the upper arms. He said there is way more room than with stock ones.

A little bit of Loctite probably wouldn't hurt on the jamb nut just to make sure they don't come loose.

 

[Phoenyx]

A little bit of Loctite probably wouldn't hurt on the jamb nut just to make sure they don't come loose.

Yeah, when I take it in after the winter I'm gonna get some spacers up front, lower springs for the back, and have the pinion angle set. Then have it locktited.

 

[Mike P]

Mines pretty standard stuff.... 9” with boxed lowers and Lakewood adjustable uppers.

The sway bar is off a 78 Monte parts car and air bags have been added.

I definitely agree with the exhaust guy, the adjustable arms definitely help when using larger than stock tail pipes.

 

[sickolds]

thats exactly what i wanted to see thanks guys 😀

 

[sickolds]

any more pic's?

 

[Bumpin1ohmSS]

Grand National Rear-POR-15 treated
Belltech Nitro Drop Shocks
OPG 2" rear drop springs
Airlift 2000 coil spring bags
C3Fab Upper/Lower trailing arms. The uppers are gonna be swapped over to my Elco and some adjustable ones installed in my SS Monte.
Hotchkis rear swaybar

Next I want the Edelbrock anti hop bars. I prob dont need em, but I want em anyway...

Elco Warren

 

[sickolds]

dude thats a nice set up

 

[watchdog]

dude thats a nice set up

That does look hot. Hey Warren, or anyone, what exactly is the purpose of the coil spring bags?

 

[stomis]

Looks good.

I'd like to know why it was said not to box uppers and lowers? That doesnt make any sense to me. You want your control arms to be rock solid. Your not suppose to get movement from them.

 

[FE3X CLONE]

Looks good.

I'd like to know why it was said not to box uppers and lowers? That doesnt make any sense to me. You want your control arms to be rock solid. Your not suppose to get movement from them.

I didn't say you don't want to box the lowers. Lowers are fine since the angle they are at isn't as severe as the uppers. You DON'T want them to be rock solid for a handling situation. For a drag car it's not so much of a concern since your only concerned with going in a straight line.

The issue is that the upper arms need some compliance and ability to twist otherwise you end up with issues of snap oversteer when also combined with stiff bushings.

Tubular arms are better in this regard because while they are stronger than stock, they tend to give some compliance compared to a fully boxed square tube style trailing arm.

I used to own the Hotchkis suspension kit and yes, it did stiffen up the rear end and provided that "feeling" of better performance. However it rode terrible over bumps and even worse if you had a hard corner with bumps. The suspension didn't allow the tires to follow the road but rather just bounce and skip over the surface.
When I did my first Autocross event is when I finally realized how terrible this type of setup was. You end up with very unpredictable snap oversteer where your pushing the car to the limit in turn and as the suspension moves it reaches a point where the bushings/control arms bind, sending the rear of the car sliding out from behind you.

After that day I started ripping all of the Hotchkis crap out.