Im surprised that you would use nylocks on your suspension.
A guy I know built a pro touring 71 Chevelle for another friend of mine. The car came out real nice. Big block, dropped. Big dollar build. Well over $100K. Anthony used nylocks on everything. I told him Ive seen them loosen up. He knew better since thats whet he did for a living. A year later the owner was driving back from a car show in NJ and lost a bolt from the rear suspension. When he got it to another shop they found multiple nuts loosened up. You can use what you feel safe with. Just letting you know.
I did the same thing you did with the upper control arm nuts. Regular nuts until the shims go in. Then 10.9 prevailing torque. Same thing that was on them from the factory. I had a hard time finding them until I found belmetric. Places here could get them but only in a box of 50 or 100.
With the 1/2" bolt and the tubular uppers I use is the same set up we had on our lower end circle track cars. On those bolts for the upper we used grade 8 regular nuts and they never came loose. I have had no problems with the nylocks I use and there are different quality nylocks. One reason I like using the nylocks is that it keeps protects the threads from moisture. On the rest of my suspension I use regular grade 8 nuts with blue locktite. Nut loosening is caused by the joints moving and there is very little joint movement with the uppers and almost none in my suspension. When I opened the holes for the 1/2" I had welded some 14 gauge washers to strengthen the hole area and used a reamer to keep the hole the size I wanted. That being said I have never seen a nylock come completely off the bolt unless the bolt was shorter than it should be. I also do a bolt check on the car before I take it out each year