Ok I think I'm sold on the 8.5. I done some research and seems they hold up well if well built. I'm gonna keep an eye out for one at swaps and junk yards. are there any ways to identify a 8.5 over the 7.5 easily?
want to run mid to low 11's
- Thread starter wolfs1959
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I have a 8.5" In my Monte SS with a 450 hp motor, the rearend help up great made more then 25 passes on it with no problems at all, It is now being rebuilt at my local diff shop and the guy said they are just as good as a 12bolt and 9" if you build them up. He is gaurantee mine for 650hp. One easy way to tell a 7.5" from a 8.5" is looking at the diff cover and located on the left and right side of the housing there are little tabs, 8.5" have a square tab, 7.5" have a pointed tab. hope that helpswolfs1959 said:
8.5 is a 10 bolt perfectly round cover with triangular casting at 5 and 7 o'clock.
the 7.5 is not quite round and has a much smaller cover.
the 7.5 is not quite round and has a much smaller cover.
Joewolfs1959 said:
Your stock suspension will work just fine, I would box the control arms and install new bushings. An 8.5 or a 9 in will be money well spent and I would include a sway control. I use stock springs and shocks and gets into personal preference. Don't forget about your cage and safty equipment - bolt in some HP and HAVE FUN. I will send you some pic's of my set-up.
RE: Low to Mid 11 sec GBody
Hi Joe-well-that's a lot to ask for.There are several things you should take into consideration.If you need a street driver-you will have to consider a PUMP GAS motor.It is going to be difficult to move a 3100Lb car-1320 ft-in the mid 11 sec range,without the compression needed to make HP.I would suggest a big inch smallblock-like a 406,try to stay around 10.0-11.0 compression.If you are closer to 11.0/1, you will have to do a mix of race gas&93 pump gas.The magic in these motors will be the cam selection, and cylinder heads you use.A pretty big Hyd cam(streetable),would be something like the Comp Cams Magnum-500/500--244o/244o,maybe a Dart 200-64cc-with a flat top piston.Actually there are several good heads for this use-the Dart--World Products SportsmanII-Edelbrock Performer RPM-Brodix Race Rite.
I can give you an example of my combo-I have an 87 Buick Regal--Pump gas 406 S/B--Comp Cam 30/30 solid-504/498-247o/254o--Speed Pro Hyp piston-shallow dish-comp ratio came out at 10.25/1,with a set of World Products SportsmanII heads at 69cc.I did do a full competition port job on the heads, and use an Edelbrock Victor intake.The rearend is a GN-8.5 w/ 4:10 gears.I had a 350 Turbo built,w/a 4500 stall Transmission Specialties converter.The car weighs 3450 w/ me in it.Best pass was a 11.84@116,with a 28" slick.I do run a little race gas in it at the track.
Another way is to build a stout 355- and put some Nitrous to it--BUTTT- you better build a strong bottom end-like Steel Crank-good rods-Forged pistons,and good heads.Well- these are some of my passing thoughts-There are so many things that u can do-EVERYTHING IS RELEVANT TO TIME & MONEY!!! GOOD LUCK-- Dean
Hi Joe-well-that's a lot to ask for.There are several things you should take into consideration.If you need a street driver-you will have to consider a PUMP GAS motor.It is going to be difficult to move a 3100Lb car-1320 ft-in the mid 11 sec range,without the compression needed to make HP.I would suggest a big inch smallblock-like a 406,try to stay around 10.0-11.0 compression.If you are closer to 11.0/1, you will have to do a mix of race gas&93 pump gas.The magic in these motors will be the cam selection, and cylinder heads you use.A pretty big Hyd cam(streetable),would be something like the Comp Cams Magnum-500/500--244o/244o,maybe a Dart 200-64cc-with a flat top piston.Actually there are several good heads for this use-the Dart--World Products SportsmanII-Edelbrock Performer RPM-Brodix Race Rite.
I can give you an example of my combo-I have an 87 Buick Regal--Pump gas 406 S/B--Comp Cam 30/30 solid-504/498-247o/254o--Speed Pro Hyp piston-shallow dish-comp ratio came out at 10.25/1,with a set of World Products SportsmanII heads at 69cc.I did do a full competition port job on the heads, and use an Edelbrock Victor intake.The rearend is a GN-8.5 w/ 4:10 gears.I had a 350 Turbo built,w/a 4500 stall Transmission Specialties converter.The car weighs 3450 w/ me in it.Best pass was a 11.84@116,with a 28" slick.I do run a little race gas in it at the track.
Another way is to build a stout 355- and put some Nitrous to it--BUTTT- you better build a strong bottom end-like Steel Crank-good rods-Forged pistons,and good heads.Well- these are some of my passing thoughts-There are so many things that u can do-EVERYTHING IS RELEVANT TO TIME & MONEY!!! GOOD LUCK-- Dean
They are the same. South Side Machine was bought out by Lakewood and the same patterns are used for their bars. They work great toowolfs1959 said:
Improved the 60' and made for a straight launch with Trick Springs front & rear.Re: RE: Low to Mid 11 sec GBody
man great info sorry so late to post but i havn't visited thi site for awile. I actually have been doing alot of "resto" type work lately I've dug into the suspension/brakes.... started sanding and painting frame it wasnt bad but could have got there quick on the road. I'm also instaling all new front end parts (bushings,balljoints,tierods...) going with qa1 single adjustable front and rear. I found a 9" rear 4.10 soon to have cclip elim..... im looking for a core th400 now....
as for motor. I sold my last motor and going all forged lower end 6"rod 383, race rite 200cc heads, still not dicided on cam choice but i am going roller(comp xtreme energy 242/248@50? or bigmuthathumpr off hand i think it was 247/25?@50) I am thinking the same comp. ratio's 10-11 but would rather stick closer to 10. hooker super comps,3" xpipe exh., 800cfm demon. I figure if I'm not running low 11's Im going to slap an old 350 in her and experiment with nitrous on cheeper engine than blow my $$$$$ up because i dont know what im doing
.
as for now im just trying to get my car ready for the road. anti roll bar in the rear and bigger sway bar in front going to build my own solid body mounts. trying to liten up the front a little no power steering,a/c or heat,inner fenders...
... I could ramble all day but like you said I can only get done a little at a time as money and time alows. as of now im dead in the water because i broke my right hand and had surgery yesterday so she is just collecting dust in the garage for a few weeks. im probably not going to be able to run her this year now. 6 weeks lost pay and time to work on my baybie put a real damper on things
. but this i guess will give me one more winter of saving money and to make her a little nicer :? .
hey Dean are those times on street tires? Im going to run If Iremember correctly 275/60 15 drag radials on the street because they are the same size as my 28/10.50 slicks.
also I havnt really dicided on the race rite 180's or 200's seems like the 383 could be a toss up? any info would be apriciated here. the 200's IMO would like a little bigger cam than the 180's but this is were i get a little lost?
thanks, Im sure I'll be on here b.sing now that i have ALOT more time on my "hands" going in on the 20th to have the stitches taken out and doc says he might redo the cast so i can at least have all my fingers back lets pray.
Joe
deanz406 said:
man great info sorry so late to post but i havn't visited thi site for awile. I actually have been doing alot of "resto" type work lately I've dug into the suspension/brakes.... started sanding and painting frame it wasnt bad but could have got there quick on the road. I'm also instaling all new front end parts (bushings,balljoints,tierods...) going with qa1 single adjustable front and rear. I found a 9" rear 4.10 soon to have cclip elim..... im looking for a core th400 now....
as for motor. I sold my last motor and going all forged lower end 6"rod 383, race rite 200cc heads, still not dicided on cam choice but i am going roller(comp xtreme energy 242/248@50? or bigmuthathumpr off hand i think it was 247/25?@50) I am thinking the same comp. ratio's 10-11 but would rather stick closer to 10. hooker super comps,3" xpipe exh., 800cfm demon. I figure if I'm not running low 11's Im going to slap an old 350 in her and experiment with nitrous on cheeper engine than blow my $$$$$ up because i dont know what im doing
.as for now im just trying to get my car ready for the road. anti roll bar in the rear and bigger sway bar in front going to build my own solid body mounts. trying to liten up the front a little no power steering,a/c or heat,inner fenders...
... I could ramble all day but like you said I can only get done a little at a time as money and time alows. as of now im dead in the water because i broke my right hand and had surgery yesterday so she is just collecting dust in the garage for a few weeks. im probably not going to be able to run her this year now. 6 weeks lost pay and time to work on my baybie put a real damper on things
. but this i guess will give me one more winter of saving money and to make her a little nicer :? .hey Dean are those times on street tires? Im going to run If Iremember correctly 275/60 15 drag radials on the street because they are the same size as my 28/10.50 slicks.
also I havnt really dicided on the race rite 180's or 200's seems like the 383 could be a toss up? any info would be apriciated here. the 200's IMO would like a little bigger cam than the 180's but this is were i get a little lost?
thanks, Im sure I'll be on here b.sing now that i have ALOT more time on my "hands" going in on the 20th to have the stitches taken out and doc says he might redo the cast so i can at least have all my fingers back lets pray.
Joe
i'm not sure if you mean that you need to eliminate the c-clips on the ford 9 or this will eliminate the GM rear with c-clips. i'm 99% sure the ford 9 doesn't have c-clips if that's what you were thinking. if not i guess i need to learn how to read
that sucks!!!! what happened to the hand?
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