water/rust in my engine

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there is a possible issue there. when you switch to aluminum it pulls a lot of heat out of the cylinders. to compensate for this you need to increase compression. hopefully the new heads have a smaller chamber and will bump the compression enough. IIRC you want about 1 point.
and apparently i'm not the only one wondering, you're putting the LT1 heads on an LT1 engine right? i think they can be fit to a gen 1 block, but i don't believe you want to.
 
monte olrac said:
Those are some nice looking heads, now i hope your care is set up with a reverse flow cooling system like the LT1 and i don't mean just a reverse rotation water pump either
Reverse rotation pump won't even work on an LT1 since the pump is driven off the cam/timing set, along with the distributor :idea: The car itself shouldn't have to have anything done to it, just needs the right heads.
 
Doober said:
monte olrac said:
Those are some nice looking heads, now i hope your care is set up with a reverse flow cooling system like the LT1 and i don't mean just a reverse rotation water pump either
Reverse rotation pump won't even work on an LT1 since the pump is driven off the cam/timing set, along with the distributor :idea: The car itself shouldn't have to have anything done to it, just needs the right heads.

The LT1 cooling system was reverse flow period, some people think that they just need a reverse flow water pump, not realizig that the pump flows the same way just the impeller spins the counter clockwise instead of clockwise. I believe there is certain water passages on the head that needs to be block off so you cooling system works correctly when using LT1 heads on a Gen 1 sbc
 
I'm not talking about inside the engine... yes, it flows reverse compared to what it does inside a typical SBC. I was talking about the heater core & radiator.

And I would never use LT1 heads on an SBC... that's what Vortec heads are for 😉
 
megaladon6 said:
there is a possible issue there. when you switch to aluminum it pulls a lot of heat out of the cylinders. to compensate for this you need to increase compression. hopefully the new heads have a smaller chamber and will bump the compression enough. IIRC you want about 1 point.
and apparently i'm not the only one wondering, you're putting the LT1 heads on an LT1 engine right? i think they can be fit to a gen 1 block, but i don't believe you want to.
He said it's an LT1. Plus, if you look at the pics, you can see the Optispark on the front of the engine. One of the other interesting things with the LT1 is that the iron heads actually flow better than the aluminum ones. They had more time for R&D with the Iron ones as they came out a year after the aluminum ones and were able to perfect the port design a bit more ( the aluminum ones were from the 1992Corvette whereas the iron ones did not come out until the 1993 Z-28 and T/A). Also, the iron ones are essentially the same as the later L35 Vortec heads for the conventional SBC except for the cooling passages. Now, the best heads for the LT1 engine are aluminum, but they come from the LT4 engine used in the Corvette Grand Sport that came out as the swan song for the C4 'Vette. They had raised ports, and also came with the "Hot" cam, a different intake manifold and the first stock application ever of needle bearing aluminum roller rockers ( from Crane, if memory serves).
 
Once again I have been proven wrong by 85 Cutlass Brougham. I did miss that optispark in front. I would feel bad but i know Brougham was trained in the school of Chuck Norris infinite know all. So now that I been round house kicked on the right track. what parts do you have for this LT1 and did you look into the LT4 conversion.
 
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
megaladon6 said:
there is a possible issue there. when you switch to aluminum it pulls a lot of heat out of the cylinders. to compensate for this you need to increase compression. hopefully the new heads have a smaller chamber and will bump the compression enough. IIRC you want about 1 point.
and apparently i'm not the only one wondering, you're putting the LT1 heads on an LT1 engine right? i think they can be fit to a gen 1 block, but i don't believe you want to.
He said it's an LT1. Plus, if you look at the pics, you can see the Optispark on the front of the engine. One of the other interesting things with the LT1 is that the iron heads actually flow better than the aluminum ones. They had more time for R&D with the Iron ones as they came out a year after the aluminum ones and were able to perfect the port design a bit more ( the aluminum ones were from the 1992Corvette whereas the iron ones did not come out until the 1993 Z-28 and T/A). Also, the iron ones are essentially the same as the later L35 Vortec heads for the conventional SBC except for the cooling passages. Now, the best heads for the LT1 engine are aluminum, but they come from the LT4 engine used in the Corvette Grand Sport that came out as the swan song for the C4 'Vette. They had raised ports, and also came with the "Hot" cam, a different intake manifold and the first stock application ever of needle bearing aluminum roller rockers ( from Crane, if memory serves).

Your right on the money and to make it clear for all its a OBDII 1996 5.7 LT1 from a 1996 Caprice.

monte olrac said:
Once again I have been proven wrong by 85 Cutlass Brougham. I did miss that optispark in front. I would feel bad but i know Brougham was trained in the school of Chuck Norris infinite know all. So now that I been round house kicked on the right track. what parts do you have for this LT1 and did you look into the LT4 conversion.


i did check out the LT4 conversion but I dont plan to go that route. I haven't done much ported stock TB to 52mm, F-body MAF, heads, plan to use some comp cam 1.6 RR's, fresh tune-up (new wires, dist, sparks) electric WP, elec Fans, 160 thermo
 
Well I hope everything works out, just make sure your deck surface are square and use some good thread sealant for your head bolts,might be a good idea to have those heads magnafluxed if you got them from a yard to ensure you are crack and leak free. IMO i would do a re-ring kit and have the block checked out also that way you know the motor is good to go the first time, keep us posted
 
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