What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2020]

[MC96]

I managed to add some negative camber to my Camaro axle today.

View attachment 134168

I went from .1 positive to .2 negative. .5 negative would be ideal, but it looks like there is a bit of cross talk between the 2 sides. The right side is about .5 which is as far as I want to go, but it wouldn't take any damn toe. 1/8" of toe in would really help this car. Has anyone else been down this road?

Uhhh youre supposed to do it out at the end so the flange is walked way forward or backwards.

Ive never cambered or toe'd a semi float axle, just straightened them.

My Quick change is toe'd and cambered but I have bolt on snouts, cambered drive flanges and crowned axles, can go up to 2.5* which if the snouts are rotated to only toe translates to over 2-1/4" with a 27" spread

 

[81cutlass]

I managed to add some negative camber to my Camaro axle today.

View attachment 134168

I went from .1 positive to .2 negative. .5 negative would be ideal, but it looks like there is a bit of cross talk between the 2 sides. The right side is about .5 which is as far as I want to go, but it wouldn't take any damn toe. 1/8" of toe in would really help this car. Has anyone else been down this road?

Is that an accepted practice?

I know its probably a race application where the miles are low but straight cut splines are not made to translate angles, neither are cylindrical wheel bearings.

 

[MC96]

Is that an accepted practice?

I know its probably a race application where the miles are low but straight cut splines are not made to translate angles, neither are cylindrical wheel bearings.

There are a whole lot on the road that are further out than that on accident. Generally a floater hub thing though not a semi float.

 

[Supercharged111]

To be clear, I'm staying within spec per the FSM which is -.6 camber and .3 toe. I'm shooting for 1/16-1/8" of toe in. If I do it out at the flange, the bearing will rotate more and bind won't it? I'm copying someone else who did this and didn't cause himself issues, but his method that worked for camber isn't giving me one visible iota of toe. For camber, I'm worried adding to the left has more impact on the right side. What method do you use to straighten axles?

 

[MC96]

I use the same method to straighten as most seem bent towards the center, whether its a 9" or otherwise.

 

[Supercharged111]

My ignorance may be to blame here. I was using a cutting tip, but it turns out there's a rosebud tip that is more suited to what I'm doing. Hopefully I can get some more heat into this thing and get some toe into this diff. MC do you ever see cross-talk when correcting/setting camber? i.e. add camber on the left and it also adds it on the right?

 

[MC96]

My ignorance may be to blame here. I was using a cutting tip, but it turns out there's a rosebud tip that is more suited to what I'm doing. Hopefully I can get some more heat into this thing and get some toe into this diff. MC do you ever see cross-talk when correcting/setting camber? i.e. add camber on the left and it also adds it on the right?

I never have, How are you measuring it?

Quenching will visibly move the tube and has better results than air cooling

 

[Supercharged111]

I clamped angle aluminum/iron to the axle flanges. I have a Longacre digital camber/caster gauge for camber and am using a tape measure for toe. I marked the angle at the same distance that my toe plates would be at for consistency there. Wouldn't quenching affect the metal's strength?

 

[MC96]

I clamped angle aluminum/iron to the axle flanges. I have a Longacre digital camber/caster gauge for camber and am using a tape measure for toe. I marked the angle at the same distance that my toe plates would be at for consistency there. Wouldn't quenching affect the metal's strength?

It does effect it sure, but Ive never seen a housing have an issue afterwards and thats on 9"s being treated relatively roughly

 

[joesregalproject]

Got the Cub Cadet back in one piece. It's got some new seals and bushings, new o-rings in the deck lift spool valve, a new breather gasket, fuel line, and some other miscellaneous parts. I still need to do the regular tune up items and I want to change the hydraulic oil and filter, but it's looking pretty good. Now I'm on the hunt for some used spool valves so I can add a power lift power angle blade.