What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2020]

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Bonnewagon

Lost in the Labyrinth
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Sep 18, 2009
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Queens, NY
It stopped raining just long enough to get the 4.0 oil filter adapter off to change the "O" rings. The ones in the whole engine kit were the wrong size and I just now got the right ones after the block was already in. Now the only way to get at the adapter bolt is to get a T-60 TORX socket, bang out the 12mm bit, and use a 12mm wrench on it. I used a 12mm crowfoot flare wrench with a 3/8" breaker bar and a cheater pipe to break it loose. Then I put a 12mm ratcheting box end on it to unscrew it the rest of the way. Getting the adapter bolt back in to the adapter with the new rings is difficult. Since the oil filter has the same threads as the block I just screwed the adapter to the filter which drew the bolt and rings right in. Maybe it will dry up enough to get it back on tomorrow.
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So, I fiddled with a bunch of stuff. Went up to 1320john$$$'s place yesterday and picked up an 800 Holley main body he had offered up on here. Thanks, buddy, but it's f-ing ORANGE!!! He says it came off a mopar.
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What genius put carb dip in a paint can? Carbs don't fit!
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Then, I split up a tree with a little help from my neighbor and his big, orange shovel (Kubota tractor)
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Then, I put the trailer plug in the Rust-erado bumper because the new receiver didn't have provisions for it (the old bracket was on the factory hitch).
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So, I fiddled with a bunch of stuff. Went up to 1320john$$$'s place yesterday and picked up an 800 Holley main body he had offered up on here. Thanks, buddy, but it's f-ing ORANGE!!! He says it came off a mopar.

What genius put carb dip in a paint can? Carbs don't fit!

Then, I split up a tree with a little help from my neighbor and his big, orange shovel (Kubota tractor)

Then, I put the trailer plug in the Rust-erado bumper because the new receiver didn't have provisions for it (the old bracket was on the factory hitch).
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this will help you get it in the pail......

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Well after banging my head against the wall I decided to go with the FSM which does not say to oil the bolts. I made sure the threads were chased and clean. I put Permatex 52914 on the #11 bolt. We assembled the intake/exhaust to the head first and left the head pipe loose so it can be swung if needed.I put the two manifold O2 sensors on as they are so buried under there. The two lowers I removed because they were going to get smooshed going in. I think I can get them on later- not as bad as the uppers. I had my Grandson help me get the head on and torqued down. He had no idea what getting 110 ft lbs tight was like! Good learning experience. That #14 bolt at the back is one tough mother. My big torque wrench is 1/2" drive so you need a deep 12 point 1/2" drive 1/2" socket. I sure didn't have one on hand. I think I made 100 trips to the stores on this job. I also wanted to use stainless steel for the manifold/head pipe bolts. Turns out they are M10 x 1.50 and not available anywhere locally. I re-used the old bolts for now.
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Replaced the rubber grips on my CVPI's spot lights. The old grips were turning into goo, probably from bring exposed to so much sun light.

The tractor sheared a key on its PTO drive gear. Big PITA to fix as the gear won't come off its shaft. Already btoke a gear puller trying to get it off.
 
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Today we put the valve train on. Lots of lube on the wear points. Loktite on the bolts. One snag. As I primed the oil pump with a 1/2" drill one push rod did not get any oil. Rotating the engine did not help. In desperation I removed the set of intake/exhaust rockers and swapped the push rods. BINGO! Oil. Why? I don't know. When I blew the push rods out they passed oil freely. Then I had to clean the oil from everything and re-Loktite the bolts. This is why we prime the engine- to look for problems. WHEW!
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