What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2021]
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And this is why online gets so much of my money, because I'm not interested in the utter overpriced GARBAGE sold by the local stores.
There are a few aftermarket brands that I will use but I won't use anything generic anymore. I went through 2 or 3 parts store idler pullies before I just went and bought an OEM. I've found that getting decent aftermarket brake rotors isn't easy. The pads are usually fine but the rotors are made of garbage steel and warp, crack and wear really fast.
I was able to find AC Delco rotors for the wife's Envoy 2 years ago. I can still get them for the Corvette, but they're no better than what I get at Advance. My guess is they're only made in 1 place because they felt identical in weight. The rotors on my 1500 came from the parts store and we're visibly inferior to the heat checked Brembos blanks they replaced. They're getting tossed when I do pads next which is soon.
So been fighting a condition in the wife's Envoy where you hit the brakes and the steering wheel rotates. I started with the 7 year old in the driver's seat and me underneath. First thing I saw was hammered outer tie rods. Did those and set it at 1/16" toe in. Wife complained it drove weird. A day or 2 later I drove it and it was weird. Turns out I'd set it at 1 1/16". Whoops. Next I found worn lower ball joints and had it aligned. Still garbage. Next I saw the upper control arm bushings were hammered. Score! Upper ball joints were nice and tight too. Went for a drive and STILL garbage. By now I was facing ankle surgery and the tires were pretty bald on the outside so I was dead in the water. Today I swapped out the lower control arm mounts as that's where the lower control arm bushings live. First one was a pain, second went much much quicker. Bask in the cleanliness of the non-rotted 2007 Envoy Denali those of you who hail from the rust belt!
I caused some undue asspain by trying to pull it straight out. Turns out the trick is to pull the front straight out and the rear forward and out. Reinstall in the opposite order. The prybars come up a bit short on leverage when sending these things home so a little more loving was required.
If brute force isn't working, you're not using enough. Just a couple whacks here and it was home sweet home. When I got it back together it had way too much camber and north of an inch of toe in. I got toe close to 0, went for a test drive, and it went straight and didn't rotate the wheel under braking. Good enough to rock until it hits the alignment rack this week. After that, the tires I'm hoarding go on and we can face winter head on.
I caused some undue asspain by trying to pull it straight out. Turns out the trick is to pull the front straight out and the rear forward and out. Reinstall in the opposite order. The prybars come up a bit short on leverage when sending these things home so a little more loving was required.
If brute force isn't working, you're not using enough. Just a couple whacks here and it was home sweet home. When I got it back together it had way too much camber and north of an inch of toe in. I got toe close to 0, went for a test drive, and it went straight and didn't rotate the wheel under braking. Good enough to rock until it hits the alignment rack this week. After that, the tires I'm hoarding go on and we can face winter head on.
Ah yes, no rust. I can't say I know what's that about. When I did my LCA's and upper back joints this summer I think I had a half gallon of rust sitting on the ground.
The good thing is parts for gmt360's are cheap!
True, but I was shocked at how much was used up by 100k. My GMT400 trucks don't eat balljoints and bushings like that and they actually get loaded and ripped on.
I think it's because GM put much larger wheel/tire packages on these later generation trucks like the 360's and 900's. For example, my truck has 275/55/20 all around which is huge. I think my lower balljoints were shot at 100k. The grease-able Moog problem solvers seem to be holding up better though. We'll see.
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