I didn't realize rust mort was also a converter. Or perhaps I read that here before and forgot? Sounds like the right took for the job though given my current position.
What Should I seal this floorpan with?
- Thread starter Supercharged111
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Phosphoric acid is the main active ingredient and the acidic component will dissolve some of the rust. What it can't completely dissolve it will convert to black iron phosphate which is inert. I can't be certain but its my belief that rust mort contains some extra compounds or polymers that bind with the iron phosphate to create a more stable and durable coating on the surface. Whereas something like Ospho or Prep and Etch is simply the acid by itself, it will convert the rust to iron phosphate but it will leave the iron phosphate by itself. Here is the TDS for Rust Mort.
And, apart from the MSDS, that about says it all. Oh, yeah, if you happen to be using it and the garage floor is concrete, be absolutely certain to have a pump bottle of water right there with you. Any Rust Mort that hits the concrete will act just like a normal concrete etching solution and it will turn the concrete white. Hitting the Rust Mort with water neutralizes it so you can use a rag or towel to wipe it up. The water is also good to have just in case you get any of the "Mort" on you.
Nick
Nick
I slathered the Rust Mort on good and thick and let it sit overnight. Rinsed this morning and had a chalky white residue when it dried so it's back on the sauce now.
I'm a little concerned the white stuff isn't going to stop coming back.
Passenger side has a much less bad starting point, but I don't like the rot I see near the seams. Should I cut the goo back and reapply post treatment?
I'm a little concerned the white stuff isn't going to stop coming back.
Passenger side has a much less bad starting point, but I don't like the rot I see near the seams. Should I cut the goo back and reapply post treatment?
With Rust Mort, black is a very good sign. Anything else and you should do some sanding to remove the white blush, then it with another coat. If you are considering trying to kill the rot versus doing the right thing and exorcising it, then you likely have already chosen the exorcism and just need to be talked into it.
Nick
Nick
That seam sealer looks like it has rust straight underneath it on both sides. If that isnt removed and reapplied it's going to have a good shot at keeping getting worse and returning
As in cut and weld? Because that's on my mind too. This would be an easy one because the rot stops, but I kinda need to just wrap this up for the time being too so I can get the carpet back down and deal with the multitude of other issues this thing has. It won't see salt for a couple years so won't begin to rot again as soon as I put the lid back on.
Rust is a funny beast. It all depends on solution penetration, and, how deep the rust got, pinch/spot welded seams of metal are hard because there's gaps there you can't get easy exposure to, but, air/water molecules can freely get to the oxidation patches.
There's really, IMO, only two ways to really eradicate rust. 1) a long extended full body submersion in an acid dip tank, and hope the soak is long enough to get it, at the risk of overall weakening of metal throughout; 2) cut the corroded stuff off entirely to an edge of 100% clean metal and weld something new and rust free in.
Otherwise, all you can do is keep treating it, try to get it clean to the pitted metal, and seal it so no air or moisture can get to it allowing the rust to return/keep eating away metal.
Once it's in there it's an ongoing battle. Clean it best you can, treat it best you can, seal it, store the car well, and hope it lasts as long as possible.
Truth be told, it'll probably be something else that rots out faster that ends up being its demise.
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