What Should I seal this floorpan with?

Supercharged111

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Oct 25, 2019
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Got it mostly welded in.

PXL_20230528_013306384.jpg


At first I had to be really careful that those little beads didn't fall through. As I laid down more and more beads, I found that the pan was more and more tolerant of heat. Eventually the welds took more time to penetrate so I held the trigger just a little longer. But some places didn't like that, it was a dynamic experience for sure. Once a problem area was bookended with a couple beads though it was super easy to glue it back shut. That top right corner got cut a little too sloppy so that's gonna be fun. I tried dropping little chunks of welding wire in and then zapping it to no avail. I really need something to help hold the heat. Anyone got any tricks up their sleeve they care to share here?
 
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Ugly1

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Oct 26, 2021
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Lost in the woods of NH
Got it mostly welded in.

View attachment 221582

At first I had to be really careful that those little beads didn't fall through. As I laid down more and more beads, I found that the pan was more and more tolerant of heat. Eventually the welds took more time to penetrate so I held the trigger just a little longer. But some places didn't like that, it was a dynamic experience for sure. Once a problem area was bookended with a couple beads though it was super easy to glue it back shut. That top right corner got cut a little too sloppy so that's gonna be fun. I tried dropping little chunks of welding wire in and then zapping it to no avail. I really need something to help hold the heat. Anyone got any tricks up their sleeve they care to share here?
If you’re trying to stop it from burning through they make a heavy copper paddle on a handle to hold against the back of the weld area. But you would need a second person to hold it. Not sure if one of the other guys has a better idea.
IMG_4394.jpeg
 
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With that said, I wonder if I can't just hold a scrap of aluminum to the back side?
I believe copper has a higher melting point than aluminum. Aluminum has a very low melting point and would probably be prone to to melting and contaminating the weld.

I'm not a welder or a scientist, but that's my best guess.

But it's looking very good.
 
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Supercharged111

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Oct 25, 2019
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I was able to get it just by plugging away at it. I think I'm calling the inside done, now time for primer and seam sealer, in that order right?

PXL_20230528_173359994.jpg


The bottom doesn't look so hot, I didn't get good penetration (giggity!) everywhere.

PXL_20230528_173429063.jpg


Should I be welding down here too or just seal it up and send it? Should I hit the top with a flapwheel to knock it down or leave it as is?
 
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ck80

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I was still waiting for someone to say jbweld and send it :ROFLMAO:
I was able to get it just by plugging away at it. I think I'm calling the inside done, now time for primer and seam sealer, in that order right?

View attachment 221594

The bottom doesn't look so hot, I didn't get good penetration (giggity!) everywhere.

View attachment 221595

Should I be welding down here too or just seal it up and send it? Should I hit the top with a flapwheel to knock it down or leave it as is?
I'd hit the bottom uo to get a good clean surface, rough epoxy prime, then load the $#!+ out of it with the waxy spray coating like gm used on our frames new instead of paint, then dose it with fluid film, and send it.
 

Ugly1

Royal Smart Person
Oct 26, 2021
1,605
1,332
113
Lost in the woods of NH
I was able to get it just by plugging away at it. I think I'm calling the inside done, now time for primer and seam sealer, in that order right?

View attachment 221594

The bottom doesn't look so hot, I didn't get good penetration (giggity!) everywhere.

View attachment 221595

Should I be welding down here too or just seal it up and send it? Should I hit the top with a flapwheel to knock it down or leave it as is?
Hitting it with a wire wheel , flapwheel , small grinder is a good idea. Cleaning the area for sealing and painting
 

Supercharged111

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 25, 2019
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Colorado Springs, CO
If you guys are wondering how much longer I'll drag this out, my answer is this:

CM0yEMJWoAA0DFW.jpg


I did swing by the local
paint store today and got some primer.

PXL_20230531_022847409.MP.jpg


$50 out the door, cheaper than online. Thinking I'll just brush this on, no need to get over spray all over the place. I also wiped the floor down with some acetone.

PXL_20230531_022131320.jpg
PXL_20230531_022054787.jpg


And I have 3 little spots soaking in Rust Mort again. Figure it's been this long, no reason not to try and get the rest down the way I did with the floor I cut out. Given enough time this stuff will eat every last morsel of rust. I have a tube of $10 AC Delco seam sealer arriving tomorrow and I'm curious if it's gonna be the consistency of caulk or something that's a little thicker than paint? Or could it go either way?
 
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Supercharged111

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 25, 2019
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Colorado Springs, CO
I'm going to prime this pan tomorrow, just want to verify a couple things: are mineral spirits and/or acetone good enough cleaners to prep the surface? And do I need to allow the primer to fully cure before laying down the seam sealer? How long should I wait to slam the carpet back in?
 

Ugly1

Royal Smart Person
Oct 26, 2021
1,605
1,332
113
Lost in the woods of NH
I'm going to prime this pan tomorrow, just want to verify a couple things: are mineral spirits and/or acetone good enough cleaners to prep the surface? And do I need to allow the primer to fully cure before laying down the seam sealer? How long should I wait to slam the carpet back in?
Go acetone or lacquer thinner.
 
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