What the hell?
- Thread starter MrSony
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As far as temp going up and down, I'd guess it's a t-stat issue. It will vary some as the coolant temp fluctuates of course. New t-stat and hoses, new water pump of course, maybe have a machine shop flush the block. While you're at it, head gaskets wouldn't be a bad idea.
My gauge did the same with my half plugged rad, maybe the impeller was only turning sometimes? My gauge was way off, thinking vapor lock. Yeah old cars can be a drag sometimes.
Is this the engine you just put together? All I can do is recommend the Flowkooler water pump that Bob at the machine shop recommended to me. He told me the stock pump would not be sufficient for my engine. We measured a stock aftermarket replacement pump and the impeller doesn't sit tight enough against the inside of the timing cover and it'll cause cavitation. The Flowkooler pump isn't that expensive, it's a GMB pump with Flowkooler's impeller on it.
www.summitracing.com
My engine is still on the stand but I'd take Bob's word as gospel.
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My engine is still on the stand but I'd take Bob's word as gospel.
It would take serious damage to the cover to lead to a later cavitation issue in the next pump.
That said, there's plenty of ways to create bearing damage during the installation process, ranging from how you chose to apply tension to the belts, to having excessive tension on one belt that begins applying pressure pulling against one side... it's why there's a tool and recommended tension for a belt and it's not just caveman style lemme pull the accessory tight as I can by hand while someone else tightens. Even tapping a pulley that's tight on the post down onto the pump with a hammer is a bad idea along that vein...
If it cools, burns, or stops, short local trips right after a repair are best.
That said, there's plenty of ways to create bearing damage during the installation process, ranging from how you chose to apply tension to the belts, to having excessive tension on one belt that begins applying pressure pulling against one side... it's why there's a tool and recommended tension for a belt and it's not just caveman style lemme pull the accessory tight as I can by hand while someone else tightens. Even tapping a pulley that's tight on the post down onto the pump with a hammer is a bad idea along that vein...
If it cools, burns, or stops, short local trips right after a repair are best.
There was no real issue, just a cheap shitty gauge. Hoses all read 130-140f with my temp gun. It wasn't until the end of the trip the pump died.
The gauges have been fine enough for 5 years, but I guess that's all they were meant to last. I'm getting another set of gauges, more accurate specifically, very shortly.
And keep in mind, the gauge didn't start doing this until very shortly before the trip, and as said the temp gun, oil pressure, etc all confirm the engine itself was fine. The hoses weren't even that hot, at 130-140. Heater hoses were around 150, bypass hose was also in that range. I could rest my hand on them and not need to pull away, so they weren't that hot. Same with the rad.
There were 2 separate problems, one that developed later.
#1 The gauge freaking out after water pump replacement
#2 Water pump eating itself and spewing coolant
One may or may not have been the cause of the other. The water pump I just replaced, (third pump, 1st was a used one I had leftover from previous engine that I had on it for two years, no issues, 2nd was a new parts store pump (ate itself), 3rd is another parts store pump of a different brand) may solve the issue of the gauge freaking out. Maybe the old pump was getting bound up, maybe there was a massive air pocket, I don't know. All I do know is the gauge was going nuts after I replaced the oldest pump, and then that new pump failed. I guess I'll find out soon enough after I top off the coolant and run this pump. Regardless, I am getting new gauges. I hate how the temp gauge is numbered.
fun drinking game: drink every time I wrote pump
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