What type of gas in a stock 305?

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Ah, sorry, what I meant to say is that if you were running straight ethanol, you'd need twice as much fuel in the mixture to run correctly... though actually I now realize that I've confused it with methanol.

Ergo, you'd need about 9:1 for straight ethanol, 6.5:1 for straight methanol, compared to 14.7:1 for gasoline
 
I never had too much problem in my '84 Monte SS until I went on vacation in FL. All of a sudden, the car ran poorly and was pinging like crazy (different climate and hotter temps). I put in the 89 octane and the problems went away. Ever since then I used the 89 without any further issues.
 
The way I look at it the G body was never set up to run on e10 fuel. If there were any benefits to using ethanol there would be a demand for a higher percentage of ethanol in fuel.
 
The way I look at it the G body was never set up to run on e10 fuel. If there were any benefits to using ethanol there would be a demand for a higher percentage of ethanol in fuel.

E10 has been around and used widely since the mid to late 1970's. The reason demand for higher percentages is non-existent for the most part is E10 is the threshold at which the only negative system affects are higher moisture content. At E15 and above the corrosive nature of Ethanol affects the materials in older cars. Brass, cork, rubber, pot metal all corrode and degrade faster as Ethanol % increase. They are pushing E15 now because all mfgs now use Ethanol friendly materials throughout and the People pushing the higher percentages don't care about older/antique equipment. If it makes it harder to keep on the road all the better. Think back to when they outlawed leaded fuel. If you wanted to keep that pre 60's engine running, you had to constantly put in additives or pay to have the engine redone for unleaded fuels.
 
E10 has been around and used widely since the mid to late 1970's. The reason demand for higher percentages is non-existent for the most part is E10 is the threshold at which the only negative system affects are higher moisture content. At E15 and above the corrosive nature of Ethanol affects the materials in older cars. Brass, cork, rubber, pot metal all corrode and degrade faster as Ethanol % increase. They are pushing E15 now because all mfgs now use Ethanol friendly materials throughout and the People pushing the higher percentages don't care about older/antique equipment. If it makes it harder to keep on the road all the better. Think back to when they outlawed leaded fuel. If you wanted to keep that pre 60's engine running, you had to constantly put in additives or pay to have the engine redone for unleaded fuels.

Ethanol fuel wasn't at the stations till 1988 and it only used in winter gas. Leaded gas was only phased out starting 1975
 
Ethanol fuel wasn't at the stations till 1988 and it only used in winter gas. Leaded gas was only phased out starting 1975
Maybe in your area. But where I live in the heart of the corn belt it has been on pumps since before I could drive a car legally. Not wanting to get in "pissing match" Ethanol is another of those great debate topics. You either don't have issues or you do and from that point on an opinion is made and sides are chosen. As with almost everything the government puts it hand into the results are poor to disastrous at best. Any standard forced on industries and Joe Q Public without real world factual data and input is bad. Sadly Ethanol falls in that category. At the end of the day we all want the same things, Enjoy our cars and get the best/most for every dollar we invest.
 
I wasn't aware the some companies put ethanol in gas before the EPA authorized it. I wasn't trying to start a pissing match with you. I can remember the talk about the valve seats being hardened with the lack of lead in the gas and they tried some other additives which ended up to be real nasty coming of the tail pipe and then they decided to use ethanol...I think the cost of the ethanol they put in gas is preventing the price of gas to fall to where it should be
 
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Ethanol was added to winter blends to make it more volatile and burn cleaner (has an oxygen in the molecule) in the colder months. Not to jump on the environmental rant wagon, but corn-based fuel blends were supposed to help our environment by burning cleaner. I personally feel we are destroying US croplands by subsidizing farmers to grow square miles of corn, ruining the soil with chemical fertilizers and pesticides. And I agree with PontiacGP - I had to rebuild the carb on my vintage Briggs & Stratton on my roto-tiller until I figured out that the ethanol grabs water, then evaporates and leaves junk behind in the tank and fuel bowl. I found the one station in 200 miles that sells alcohol-free gas (premium only, 90 octane up here, about $3.50 a gallon) and I get a 5-gallon can twice a year for all my small equipment. If you drive regularly, then the 10% blend probably won't hurt, but don't leave modern fuel in a classic car that sits for extended periods unless you like rebuilding carbs and replacing tanks and fuel lines.

Back to the original question, 87 octane is fine for a stock GM engine. When you raise compression and go to higher power levels, than you need to bump up towards premium. Modern engines with knock sensors back off the timing automatically, but old-schoolers like us have to make the adjustments my ear/hand. Octane is a big molecule and suppresses detonation, enabling the fuel to ignite more consistently. Therefore, you can advance the timing closer to the point where the piston just starts to move back down, getting the most 'bang for the buck'. Backing off the timing means that you ignite the fuel later, so the detonation does not hit the piston before it's ready to go down, but this lowers the efficiency/power/mileage from your fuel. The butt dyno should tell you if 89 octane makes a difference on a stock G. Gas is so cheap right now, the 10-cent difference is less noticeable.

Drive and enjoy punishing the petroleum industry for a change.
 
A stock 305 will have a primitive batch ignition retard if the knock sensor is tripped, assuming the CCC, is working. So if you motor is pinging from the fuel, it will run retarded alot and performance will suffer.

I know one guy converted his ESC, to a non batch setup but he never explained the many of the details of how he did it, think it was a long discontinued aftermarket kit.
 
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