MALIBU What's going on G-Body peeps? I recently bought an 83' Malibu CL Wagon.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Take the nut off of the back of the wiper motor to remove the wiper transmission. Sounds like the wiper have been rigged in the past. Put a ground wire to the metal body of the wiper motor as see what happens. I am about 3 hours from you
 
It won't let me post pics from my phone. So does anyone know which plug operates the wiper motor? The one on top or the one on the side by the fender? Test light shows power to the center pin. I tried a resistance test on the other wires(there is three, one is jumped to the hot wire with what looks like a resistor so I figured the other is ground. No reading. Key on I get a clicking noise in the motor when I roll the switch back and forth.
 
I'm only getting 11.92 volts on the hot wire. Definitely have to rewire. Ugh
 
Thanks fellas.. I'm in Jacksonville , Florida. I think the wipers problem might be a ground short or some type of short. When messing with it yesterday I had the hood up and the Cowl hood touched the wiper arm and threw a little spark. The previous owner rewired the switch because there are small wires running out of the base of the switch down the steering column under the dash. I don't know how I missed that when looking it over.
And Longroof, I think that is the issue with the vent window. There is a rusty looking pin off center at the bottom of the window frame (In the door ) that is keeping the window from sealing up when I lock it down. The window swivels and locks with the handle but has a 1/4' gap when locked and rests against the side of the pin.
We're practically neighbors. When diagnosing the problem. it is a good idea to disconnect the transmission (arms) to take the load off the motor and keeping the wiper arms from hitting the hood, etc. when the hood's open.

Yeah, the vent window shaft at the swivel point could possibly be rewelded, but it would need to be aligned in the proper position, which isn't difficult to determine. I have tried welding one years back, but I screwed up on the alignment of the shaft to the window frame. It also would be safer to remove the glass from the frame. Just curious, what side do you need?
Also, be extra careful with the rubber seal around the opening, . they are no longer available, and no one reproduces them.
 
We're practically neighbors. When diagnosing the problem. it is a good idea to disconnect the transmission (arms) to take the load off the motor and keeping the wiper arms from hitting the hood, etc. when the hood's open.

Yeah, the vent window shaft at the swivel point could possibly be rewelded, but it would need to be aligned in the proper position, which isn't difficult to determine. I have tried welding one years back, but I screwed up on the alignment of the shaft to the window frame. It also would be safer to remove the glass from the frame. Just curious, what side do you need?
Also, be extra careful with the rubber seal around the opening, . they are no longer available, and no one reproduces them.
 
Passenger side. Yeah it's broke off the bottom pin. And I got the wipers working. On the red wire coming from the motor was a connection wrapped in electrical tape. I unwrapped and found the wires wrapped together and they still had spade connectors on them lol. I cut those off soldered and heat shrunk it. And ran a ground from the bottom motor bolt to the oem ground strap location on the firewall. Weird thing is now I have a weird clicking noise that sounds just like a turn signal under the dash. It quits then starts back up randomly. Like when I open the drivers door. But the wipers work now!
 
We're practically neighbors. When diagnosing the problem. it is a good idea to disconnect the transmission (arms) to take the load off the motor and keeping the wiper arms from hitting the hood, etc. when the hood's open.

Yeah, the vent window shaft at the swivel point could possibly be rewelded, but it would need to be aligned in the proper position, which isn't difficult to determine. I have tried welding one years back, but I screwed up on the alignment of the shaft to the window frame. It also would be safer to remove the glass from the frame. Just curious, what side do you need?
Also, be extra careful with the rubber seal around the opening, . they are no longer available, and no one reproduces them.
That sucks about the rubber seal because it's toast. The other side is tip top.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor