Well as we all know the 307 in my H/O is a dog!, so im looking around for a nice 350 olds motor to rebuild, i know the earlier years are better blocks, like pre 75 maybe?? My gearhead cousin told me to look for an olds 350 diesel block, any imput on that? Also i'd like to keep the engine bay as stock looking as possible, and kind of disguise the 350, from what i understand prettymuch everything from the 307 should bolt right up. So im just looking for some imput as to what to look for, block numbers, years, prices, etc.
Whats the best year(s) for a 350 rocket???
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If I were to do a cutlass again, I think I would go with a 403. You get away with a 455 but it probably not pass smog. To the untrained eye you could pass it off as a 307.
If your going to build a 350, and had a few bucks to do it. A diesel block would be an excellent start.
If your going to build a 350, and had a few bucks to do it. A diesel block would be an excellent start.
I'll have a diesl block pretty soon here I will be selling. Stock diesels are dogs too, but if you convert them to gas and stroke them or something they can put out massive numbers and are the strongest of all olds blocks. Also my friend has a 403 for sale if your interested in that.
To answer your question though, I believe 68 and 69 350 blocks are the most desireable, less common and more pricey though.
To answer your question though, I believe 68 and 69 350 blocks are the most desireable, less common and more pricey though.
It really depends on what you are looking to do with the engine. Are you going to be changing pistons? Are you looking for crazy amounts of power? You say you want it to look stock, are you planning on running the computer on it? Most likely you will not be making enough power to need a diesel block, plus they cost a lot to convert. I'm pretty sure you will be fine with any year block with solid main webs and a set of 4, 5, 6, or 7 heads. I think they went to windowed mains in 77, so any block before that will be fine. Just try to stay away from #8 heads. I think a good price for a complete core is around $250 or less, I wouldn't pay any more than that. I recently got a 70 block and crank for $20 from another member on here. If you are planning on replacing pistons, it might be a good idea to look for something like I found. You can usually find a set of heads for less than $150 that need rebuilt.
Oh, take a look at this post.
http://www.oldspower.com/vb/showthread.php?t=54668
Pretty reasonable prices.
http://www.oldspower.com/vb/showthread.php?t=54668
Pretty reasonable prices.
dan2286 said:
Good info!, im not looking for anything too crazy, realitivly stock i'd say. Maybe a different cam? Could i use the same pistons and just change the rings, or would new pistons be advised. Yes i would like to stick with the computer if i could, could this be done? What kind of HP could i expect?, Lots of questions! :lol: im used to changing engines not building them.
IMO It's easier to run no computer just because if you run the computer you have to run your original carb, which would possibly not bring out the full potential of the motor. only difference is a non computer carb. and a non computer dist. are needed. That also gets rid of more than half the wires in the engine bay, whther you tuck them away or cut em out is your call.
This is what i ended up with. Non computer Q-jet and dist. cut all my computer wires. and also switched to the non a/c heater box which cleaned up a ton of random stuff. I started with a v6 car though, same diff. :lol:
This is what i ended up with. Non computer Q-jet and dist. cut all my computer wires. and also switched to the non a/c heater box which cleaned up a ton of random stuff. I started with a v6 car though, same diff. :lol:
If you're located in Canada try lookin at this place they got 68-77s for a decent price
http://www.crosstownengines.com/view/en ... ategory/2/
http://www.crosstownengines.com/view/en ... ategory/2/
84hurst said:
I am not too knowledgeable about the stuff you are asking, but can give some tips. For pistons, you pretty much have to get forged or hypuerutic, because the only cast ones available have bigger dishes and have a short compression height, so they will hurt compression. If you have a low compression ratio, it will limit the choice of cams you can use. You can run it on the computer, but you can not have a very powerful engine. I am not sure on what is the highest compression ratio you can use with the computer. I know you would like to keep this looking stock, but you can always disconnect the computer harness from the engine and tuck it off to the side somewhere. Luckily the harness is completely separate from the rest of the cars harness. You may have to find a way to activate the a/c since it is controlled by the computer, same thing with the converter lock up on the trans. All of that can be done without cutting wires and you can save everything to put it back to stock if you ever feel the need to. If you disconnect the computer, you will need a non computer controlled carb and distributor.
I don't know how much power you can expect, maybe around 200+. I have a stock 70 350 2 bbl engine in my car with unknown miles, and it is pretty fun. Even with the crappy 2 series gears, it still accelerates pretty good. Here is a 0-70 mph run with mine, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eRv0vmbqk4 . It's not super fast, but it's more than enough for driving on the street.
all pre 77 350s are about the same, the earlier ones had more nickle content but unless you are building a high rpm monster this will not be an issue for you. Ideally you should just go out get your self a good running 72-76 350 for next to nothing because no one wants them, preferably out of a Delta or other land yacht they don't get driven as hard. Then pick up a set of 68-71 heads they pop up on eBay every now and again, Have them rebuilt and mill them a little to get some more compression out of it. Then pick out a good cam like a comp 268h, double roller timing chain, headers, and a good rebuilt quadrajet. Your cutlass will haul some *ss you'll be around 300-325 hp and it will have some decent torque to. Thats like an ideal cheap set up. A good place to check out is the OLDS FAQ they explain which heads will give you what compression and what blocks are best.
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