Ok lets start with carb then. Now that I got the fluids fresh and filters fresh lets start adjusting. So fill me in. Which screws do I start turning. It does idle fine at the moment so can we eliminate the idle speed screw?
Where to start? First things first.
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I suggest you read that haynes manual you bought a few times before you do anything. The carb section will tell you how to set the carburetor up. It's in the fuel system section, I believe.
Right now your car is running so rich that it's sending tons of extra fuel into your cylinders. That's why your plugs smell like gas. The good part is that your engine is probably okay - for now. The bad part is that all of that extra fuel is washing down into your oil pan and mixing with the oil. When it gets bad enough it will ruin your bearings.
Look in your emissions section and read about checking your computer controls. It's not that hard, you just need a volt meter. I think your oxygen sensor is messed up (probably dead) but that will only really hurt you after your ECM goes into closed loop (you will have to be warmed up and running for a while before this happens, so don't worry yet) so we need to check the things that affect your engine running in open loop. Your carburetor is most likely to blame because if it was not maintained before, the computer controlled mixture control solenoid is probably gunked up. That means you need either a rebuild or a replacement.
You should buy a new engine coolant temp sensor and install it. You don't need the one for the temperature gauge in the dash (or the temp light, if you have a light instead of a gauge) you need the one that feeds the ECM. The parts store should give you more than one choice. If your engine can't see the proper temperature, it will screw up the fuel delivery badly.
Do a compression check on your engine. The number doesn't matter as long as it is above 75. What's important is that every cylinder has nearly the same number, say within 10 percent or so. Do that and then check back in with us.
If your compression is good, it's time for a used carb from the wrecking yard. I think all of your ignition stuff is fine because it starts well.
Right now your car is running so rich that it's sending tons of extra fuel into your cylinders. That's why your plugs smell like gas. The good part is that your engine is probably okay - for now. The bad part is that all of that extra fuel is washing down into your oil pan and mixing with the oil. When it gets bad enough it will ruin your bearings.
Look in your emissions section and read about checking your computer controls. It's not that hard, you just need a volt meter. I think your oxygen sensor is messed up (probably dead) but that will only really hurt you after your ECM goes into closed loop (you will have to be warmed up and running for a while before this happens, so don't worry yet) so we need to check the things that affect your engine running in open loop. Your carburetor is most likely to blame because if it was not maintained before, the computer controlled mixture control solenoid is probably gunked up. That means you need either a rebuild or a replacement.
You should buy a new engine coolant temp sensor and install it. You don't need the one for the temperature gauge in the dash (or the temp light, if you have a light instead of a gauge) you need the one that feeds the ECM. The parts store should give you more than one choice. If your engine can't see the proper temperature, it will screw up the fuel delivery badly.
Do a compression check on your engine. The number doesn't matter as long as it is above 75. What's important is that every cylinder has nearly the same number, say within 10 percent or so. Do that and then check back in with us.
If your compression is good, it's time for a used carb from the wrecking yard. I think all of your ignition stuff is fine because it starts well.
if you do a compression test and you find the compression is lower that it should put some heavy weight oil in the cylinder and do the test again...if the compression increases then it's your compression rings that are gone...if it doesn't increase it means your valve is not seating correctly...
pontiacgp said:
Yea I read that in the chiltons today. Man.. its so overwhelming and alot of this seems confusing. But I got to remember its a project car and theres no hurry! sh*t, I thank ya'll again for helping. Do you think it would be best to just get a carb rebuild kit and clean it all up and try to make it new again? How much am I looking at for one of those. Ands when Kris said that the mixture control silinoid is gunked up isnt that built into he carb? Wouldnt It be better just rebuilding the old quadrajet? I do remember you saying"fic the cause not the symptoms" well hell I would think were fixiong the cause. Man the carb does look real gunky and abused. The idle control screw is all tore up from adjusting. Hmmm??????
Rebuild kits are usually around 20 bucks.
Yes, rebuild it first. It's not completely hopeless becuase it runs now. It can only get better! Your mixture control solenoid is built in, but is removable and cleanable. You have nothing to lose and experience to gain by doing it.
Yes, rebuild it first. It's not completely hopeless becuase it runs now. It can only get better! Your mixture control solenoid is built in, but is removable and cleanable. You have nothing to lose and experience to gain by doing it.
Right on. So if I do rebuild carb I have to start all over with adjusting air and fuel and idle control? right>? Everything from scratch?
Right.
Run the idle air mixture screws in until they bottom out and then back them out 3 full turns each. Start from there.
Run the idle air mixture screws in until they bottom out and then back them out 3 full turns each. Start from there.
We'll ok! This car runs like sh*t. The transmission is going out or ****ed up and it dont take a master mechanic to figure it out. When I take off at a light it slowly very slowly starts to accelerate in first then finally second will kick in and have a little more power but it still wont go over 30mph. While I was at work one of my buddies checked put my carb and noticed the butterfly flap deal in the center of the carb remains close to being shut at all times. I think if im not correct there is a small lever on the side of the carb that makes it flap when giving gas and form what I see it doesnt catch to make it flap open and closed. So anyway the transmission is jerking when going through gears not very hard but its doing it while putting at 30. So do anyone think that even if I rebuild the carb the car will run good enough to keep the motor in time with the transmission will in turn make the car move quicker? Does that make sense? please help. I love driving this car but only if people aren't honking at me to get the sh*t moving faster.
Also someone give me a guestimation on how much you can usually find a replacement 3.8L with transmission for?????????
Also someone give me a guestimation on how much you can usually find a replacement 3.8L with transmission for?????????
Dude it sounds like your choke is stuck (i think that is the flap you are talking about and it would cause the car to run the way you are describing. If I am correct, try disconnecting it and rigging it to stay open to see if it runs better/ different. if it does, try getting a new choke. If not youve only lost a few minutes.
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