Why am I overheating?

[pontiacgp]

I can hear it bubbling and boiling. Or is that air?

Water boils at 212º, pressurized water boils at a higher temp and water mixed with coolant boils at a temp higher than just water. That's why I said it was air and Bill agreed cause we both have dealt with cracked heads and blown head gaskets so we know the telltale signs. Heck we have even blown a head gasket arguing so we do know what we are talking about..

 

[Midwestmonsta262]

I'm not doubting any of your guys' opinions. I just find it really hard
To believe about the head and or gasket. It's all brand new.

 

[bill]

I'm not doubting any of your guys' opinions. I just find it really hard
To believe about the head and or gasket. It's all brand new.

Not to rain on your parade, but the age is irrelevant if installation wasnt done correctly. And, cracked heads are hard to see with the naked eye....so its not that uncommon. Proper way to do it is to have the heads/block magnafluxed to show hair line cracks, invisible to the naked eye.

Fuse GP...not gasket....lol

 

[Midwestmonsta262]

Thanks a lot guys. You have all been help.

 

[565bbchevy]

Well guys I agree a cracked head or blown head gasket would definitely force air into the cooling system giving the impression it is overheating or boiling over but I have never dealt with either of these issues so what would be the proceedure for checking so that he can verify that truly is the problem before tearing down his new engine.
I would hate to find out it is a faulty temp. gauge or something and it is actually running hotter than 210.

 

[pontiacgp]

you can always use a thermometer to test the temp of the coolant in the rad. I would be thinking though that you'll have a constant flow of bubbles like the system required to be bleed. The reason why I suggested to shut it down was the have the engine builder or whoever sold him an engine diagnose the problem. If they refuse to do that then get a documented and certified mechanic to diagnose it and write a report. With all due respect to those of use who are not documented and certified, myself included, we are not qualified on paper to diagnose the engine. At this point I would not want the builder/seller try to claim the engine was damaged in part due to the engine being run after the problem arose.

 

[86 Grand prix]

Take the cap off and crank the engine cold. with the radiator full of water look for bubbles in the flow. If you have a bad gasket or cracked head bad enough to geyser water out you should see bubbles while it is all still cold.

 

[foxtrot]

I agree with PontiacGp but in the mean time, you could pressure test the cooling system just to see if you have a huge issue.

 

[bill]

Take the cap off and crank the engine cold. with the radiator full of water look for bubbles in the flow. If you have a bad gasket or cracked head bad enough to geyser water out you should see bubbles while it is all still cold.

this may be true...but metal will change shape with temp changes...and it may look fine when cold, but once the head is really warm, it may start to leak. Severe pressure in the cooling system is caused by mainly two things....steam or air. Hot coolant that is below the boiling point creates some pressure, but not enough to cause Old Faithful to pop a cap.
If his timing is off...this will create severe spikes in temp too...just saying.

 

[565bbchevy]

Well it sounds like if the replacement engine has any kind of warranty then he should be contacting the builder about the issue and no longer attempt to run the car.
If there is no warranty then it appears he will be on his own so there are a few things he can at least try to verify the problem.