LPW axle tube brace kits any good. i mean do any of you or anyone you guys know use them? i wonder what level this would be a good idea to use on a street cruiser with a 400 hp base on a 7.5 rear with a gear locker? yea alot of people sh*ts on the 7.5 10 bolts but there are those out there including f bodies that make alot of power and still running them. i was looking at a rear end girdle and see that you can run the brace option on a certain girdle if you get it with the extra holes in the center section. is it worth the $$$ or not? by the way, i'm keeping my 7.5 rear even if it breaks so i'll just have to throw new harder parts in it. what i have right now is 3.42 stock axles with a true trac locker.
Yay or Na - LPW axle tube brace
- Thread starter 79malibu
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Your will have to pull the axles to weld on the brackets. Then new axle seals. Is it worth it? Probably not. If you are making enough power, and have enough traction to need that you're gonna grenade that 7.5 anyway. No matter how much money you have into it. Take it from someone who already has well over $2000 into a 7.5. And that's just the seccond rebuild. The first time I had i rebuilt, my mostly stock 301 broke it.
Here's the rule I have read. If you are running street tires, the 7.5 should hold up. In that case, you won't have enough power to require those braces.
Save your money for a real rear end.
Here's the rule I have read. If you are running street tires, the 7.5 should hold up. In that case, you won't have enough power to require those braces.
Save your money for a real rear end.
sounds like you already have your mind made up about the rearend, anything is better than nothing, but the stories are real. my suggestion would be to run maximum psi in some skinny tires and you probably wont ever brake it... i broke one with a fricken 200cube stock v6, and i never blinked an eye around a corner and it broke...just try to keep the stickys off the car and be kind to it around corners, good luck on your 7.5 adventure.
Yes, my 7.5 is on it's second rebuild already. ANd never had more than maybe 200HP going to it. That's why I added the support cover this time. And I'm only running 195/60/R15s. Wish I could go back in time and just bought an 8.5, would have saved well over $1000. 
Apply the money you would use for the brace to somewhere it will do some good, aftermarket axles.
The axle cover is a good idea though.
Also set the rear tight, that keeps the pinion from slapping the ring.
Preload at launch and it will survive.
The axle cover is a good idea though.
Also set the rear tight, that keeps the pinion from slapping the ring.
Preload at launch and it will survive.
The 12 bolt in my Cutlass is .002.
For a driver, maybe -1 under what the manufacturer recommends to control heat.
For a driver, maybe -1 under what the manufacturer recommends to control heat.
pontiacgp said:
I was gonna ask the same thing. Because I have no clue what you're talking about. And because I was stupid enough to put over 2k into a 7.5, I want it to last as long as possible now lol.
Phoenyx said:
glad to see you have a sense of humor....do you know what clearance we are talking about?...just in case...it's the backlash of the crown gear between contact point moving it in either direction...by the book for a 7.5 it's supposed to be .006 to .010. ...but I have seen other books saying .005 to .009. I set mine at .006
Honestly, I thought you meant something to do with the trailing arms lol. Since My uppers are adjustable I was hoping it was something as simple as that. But if it's on the inside, the only time I ever plan to take my cover off is when I finally get an 8.5 or a 12 bolt. That way I can maybe get at least $100 (for the LPW cover) back out of my $2000+ investment lol.
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