Your opinions on the Bondo Buggy

[Ribbedroof]

Don't be too put off by the shop's words. I work in a collision shop, we wouldn't touch it either. Not because collision work is making us rich, but because, honestly, few people are prepared to write a blank check for this kind of stuff. Everybody expects shops to be able to give them a hard number for repairs where they have no idea how extensive the work will be. Most every shop has been in that position, and most don't care to repeat the experience, as it usually leaves both parties less than satisfied.

Honestly, it doesn't look terrible in the pics. The biggest problem is likely lack of proper treatment of the repairs, as I alluded to in my prior post.

Good luck to you, I think it'll be worth the effort in the long run.

If it helps, waaaaaaay back in 1977, I bought a 72 Chevelle SS that had worse bubbling than that over the rear wheels within 3 months of purchase...so it could be a LOT worse.

 

[Doug Chahoy]

To look correct, the entire Monte lower 1/4 should have been used. The wheel openings are different front to rear. Id say do the mechanics to the car while you learn on it to do the body work. Check the thread “ Rustier than I thought “ He said he didn’t know how to do body work when he started his build. He’s done an amazing job on his.

 

[Ribbedroof]

But then, you're into the outer wheelhouses as well, if you want things to properly mate up.

Fun fact, Malibu wagon rear wheelwells are different than the coupes/sedans, they're kind of a hybrid Chev/Pontiac shape, presumably so the General didn't have to make different stampings for the Pontiac and Chevrolet wagons.

 

[08Malibu]

Don't be too put off by the shop's words. I work in a collision shop, we wouldn't touch it either. Not because collision work is making us rich, but because, honestly, few people are prepared to write a blank check for this kind of stuff. Everybody expects shops to be able to give them a hard number for repairs where they have no idea how extensive the work will be. Most every shop has been in that position, and most don't care to repeat the experience, as it usually leaves both parties less than satisfied.

Honestly, it doesn't look terrible in the pics. The biggest problem is likely lack of proper treatment of the repairs, as I alluded to in my prior post.

Good luck to you, I think it'll be worth the effort in the long run.

If it helps, waaaaaaay back in 1977, I bought a 72 Chevelle SS that had worse bubbling than that over the rear wheels within 3 months of purchase...so it could be a LOT worse.

Just started at a resto/custom shop. He does everything by time and materials. Starts off at 80 hours up front and documents all work. Can’t give a price because who knows what you’ll find when you tear into it. Doing it that way is the only way you’ll get paid for your time.

 

[Ribbedroof]

Curiousity has to ask, what's the rate?

 

[08Malibu]

Curiousity has to ask, what's the rate?

If you’re asking me, I’m not sure.

 

[Bobbystill]

I didn't ask that shop for an estimate, just their opinion on the car. I took it to the tint shop next door and figured I'd stop by and see what they thought. My plan was to have them fix the rust in the bed first and see what I thought of their handiwork, but I didn't even get that far. I just talked to me neighbor about them and he didn't recommend them anyway. He brought them his 68 4-door chevelle and had this to say:

"Paid them to pull out the back glass in the 4 door, repair rust, stop the leaks, and reinstall the back glass. They basically didn’t actually fix all of the problem spot, only about 4 square inches of it. The bottom of the groove that the back glass sits in was full of pinholes. They said they fixed it. They didn’t. Instead they just bondo’d right over the top of the loose rust (didn’t even clean it out) then painted over the top so I wouldn’t see it, then put the window back in. The window continued to leak (because of course it would).

I took it back the next day for them to reseal the window (I thought they had screwed up the window seal). They said they redid the window seal, but they didn’t. Instead they just took the chrome trim off and filled up the gap with black RTV silicone. (So they didn’t take the window out and redo it). That never works, because regular cheap silicone shrinks over time, pulling away from the surfaces of the channel.

I ended up having to redo the entire job myself, after grinding out their mess of bondo. Ryan can vouch for me, I was pissed"

Maybe I was saved from a bad situation anyway.

 

[William]

I have some experience with your situation. Looking at the photos, my guess is that there is a lot more bondo hidden under the paint. As someone else pointed out, you have two options, full-blown resto or just git-er-done. Based on what I'm seeing, I would not do a full on restoration. I recommend just getting it done. Fillers, paint, and information have come a long way since the 80's.
You said the body lines don't look right, but it looks ok in the pictures. I wouldn't screw with it and I definitely wouldn't remove it thinking you could do a better job. I'm guessing that the original shop made the body lines with fiberglass and bondo. For that reason I would strip the paint with razor blades and not a sander. (Once you get the hang of it, it goes pretty quickly.) Fix the bad spots - remove rust, seal, fill, and sand. Then sand the whole car smooth. Last, bring it to one of those places that just sprays cars and get it painted.

 

[Bobbystill]

I appreciate the advice. I don't have a problem with the body lines and I think they line up really well with the doors and the rear wheel arches, so I wouldn't try to mess with those and I definitely don't think I could do it better. I doubt I could do a better job than the shop that painted it in 2009, but I'll start doing some research and trying to learn about body work. I am pretty sure those body lines were created by welding in Monte doors, I just don't know how much filler had to be used. A magnet still sticks to all those areas, but it's definitely not as strong around the lower body lines.

 

[Fnlowrider]

Ribedroof puts it pretty much into perspective. I like the car. Looks like it's worth doing right to me. Bottom line is follow your heart and run with it. Thanks for sharing.