ZR2 S10 8.6 rear in a g body build
- Thread starter 81cutlass
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Why don't you just go with the GM 8.5 from the b-body cars that are everywhere? After years of research this seems to be the most reasonable thing out there. Same width as a Chevelle.
http://southsidemachineperformance....le-upper-control-arms-and-poly-lower-bushings
http://southsidemachineperformance....le-upper-control-arms-and-poly-lower-bushings
I feel the B body rear is OK but there are better options. I am not a fan of a lot of the southside (and others not pikcing on them) products. I find it inherently a poor idea to solve geometry issues with control arms. It boils down to the arms are where they are for a reason. Using rod ends (that get dust and debris in them and wear on the 8.8 kit) is not a good idea on a street car, hence why they are not used on OEM's.
The B body rear kit still requires you to break out a welder and besides the housing being 2" wider than stock vs 4 with my ZR2 kit, and having the top ears (in the wrong spot), the core of the axle provides no improvement over the G body IMO (besides strength) in terms of breaks, gears, or axles.
Besides the gears, (which can be modified yes) I hate to rely on someone else modifying and selling it cheap. I have not seen them for sale cheap in a modified version like you mention but I havn't really kept my eyes open to search.
The late 91+ish rears did get 30 spline axles and disks but only in Impala SS and 9c1 cop had it and with 5x5. I think the 9c1 was narrower?
The 91+ standard cars have drums but still 5x5.
The 90- cars had 5x4.75 but only 28 spline and only drums.
The zr2 is the only 5x4.75, 30 spline, disk brake, reasonable gear axle available affordable and easy to get from what I have found.
I'm not saying this is the only option, but I took the time to develop this kit as I feel it is the best compromise between price, availability, and ease of installation.
The B body rear kit still requires you to break out a welder and besides the housing being 2" wider than stock vs 4 with my ZR2 kit, and having the top ears (in the wrong spot), the core of the axle provides no improvement over the G body IMO (besides strength) in terms of breaks, gears, or axles.
Besides the gears, (which can be modified yes) I hate to rely on someone else modifying and selling it cheap. I have not seen them for sale cheap in a modified version like you mention but I havn't really kept my eyes open to search.
The late 91+ish rears did get 30 spline axles and disks but only in Impala SS and 9c1 cop had it and with 5x5. I think the 9c1 was narrower?
The 91+ standard cars have drums but still 5x5.
The 90- cars had 5x4.75 but only 28 spline and only drums.
The zr2 is the only 5x4.75, 30 spline, disk brake, reasonable gear axle available affordable and easy to get from what I have found.
I'm not saying this is the only option, but I took the time to develop this kit as I feel it is the best compromise between price, availability, and ease of installation.
Changed my dust shields, installed the plate for the last time with silicone, put new brake parts on, cleaned it up, painted it up and installed the brake lines from the zr2. Looks good, ready to put the axle in the car later this week.
The offset of the rear is actually perfect with these disk brakes. 49" between the inside of the calipers, about 3/4" of space to the frame rail. I don't know if you could run a narrower axle with disks and park brakes without a frame notch.
The offset of the rear is actually perfect with these disk brakes. 49" between the inside of the calipers, about 3/4" of space to the frame rail. I don't know if you could run a narrower axle with disks and park brakes without a frame notch.
Looking at about a month or two.
Pricing will be as followed (post 16)
I am going to have 3 tiers available
-Basic kit is just the rear plate, you weld and install your own upper control arm bushings. You would have to buy the kit (available on ebay or speedway motors) and cut and grind the square tubes off the UCA bushings. Estimate $150
-Medium kit is the plate and brackets. I buy the 9" bracket kit that I modify the uppers on and weld them into the plate AND weld the ears on. The bracket kit has LCA, the plate, and spring perches. That im estimating is $300.
-The "deluxe" kit $400. This kit will have everything the medium has AND a fixture that attaches the spring perches and LCA in the correct spot. Upon sucessful welding ship the fixture back to me (at your own expense) and get $75 back. So basically $325 and you no-brainer get the parts in the correct location. I welded mine up on a jig I have.
I bolted it in tonight. It fits great! About 3/4" between the frame and the wheel. Control arms lined right up. Brake lines swap right over, just disconnect the factory G body splitter block that goes to the 7.5 and attach it to the 8.5. Basically just have to figure out how to get the e brake hooked up.
I was wrong on the U joint size, it's 1310. I blew $40 to get a conversion 1310 to 1350 U joint. Oops.
Ran out of brake fluid so I couldnt drive it. Going to grab another bottle and bleed the brakes and its good to go!
Frame to wheel space
Outside of wheel to quarter, with a 275/40/17
Stock G body brake hose to S10 zr2 lines realigned
I bought the electrophoric coated rotors for 5 bucks more
Might need to roll the fender a bit if I want to lower it a lot but I think it will fit a 295/35/17 as is.
I was wrong on the U joint size, it's 1310. I blew $40 to get a conversion 1310 to 1350 U joint. Oops.
Ran out of brake fluid so I couldnt drive it. Going to grab another bottle and bleed the brakes and its good to go!
Frame to wheel space
Outside of wheel to quarter, with a 275/40/17
Stock G body brake hose to S10 zr2 lines realigned
I bought the electrophoric coated rotors for 5 bucks more
Might need to roll the fender a bit if I want to lower it a lot but I think it will fit a 295/35/17 as is.
Brakes are bled albeit a bit squishy. I think I either need a combo of an adjustable prop valve and/or a larger bore master cylinder. The brakes are firm (rock hard actually) when the engine is off, when the engine is on and I get brake boost the brakes work its just they go to the floor and it slows very slowly. It does work but doesnt lock them hard, it feels like there just isn't enough volume.
It's WAY to tall, needs to be lowered a bit. It makes the 275/40/17 look tiny. I think I need like a taller tire but there really isn't anything offered taller than a 275/40. I guess I will just lower it haha
Sure fits great in there
It's WAY to tall, needs to be lowered a bit. It makes the 275/40/17 look tiny. I think I need like a taller tire but there really isn't anything offered taller than a 275/40. I guess I will just lower it haha
Sure fits great in there
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