Engine Selection

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Intragration

Master Mechanic
Feb 4, 2012
446
1
16
Chicago
pencero said:
I can't believe everyone turned it into a chevy vs olds argument once again. I'm not the most mechanically skilled guy on the board. Two engines I am looking at getting eventually are the LT1 from early 90s Buick Roadmaster or the 5.3 LS1 from several different makes/models. I would suggest you look at the same two engines if you want an engine that is more 'plug and play'

Ha ha you can't believe people turned it into a Chevy vs. Olds question, it's the Olds section and the guy has an Olds with an Olds motor currently, you admit you're "not the most mechanically skilled guy on the board", and you suggest possibly the LEAST plug-and-play Chevy solutions? You might want to look at an Olds motor too... ;)
 

pencero

Royal Smart Person
Feb 20, 2008
1,466
25
38
Ind.
I would prefer to use a 350 olds but it seems like every time I find one and have a few hundred dollars the person is camping out on it at $650-800 and I just find myself standing there like, no I could just walk away and buy the LT1 anytime and have 100 more hp and about the same ammount of torque easily and not spend thousands rebuilding it for the next two years... Same thing with the 5.3

I know there are olds motors around for a fair price somewhere but it's not here. I seldom see one in good enough shape that I would feel comfortable just dropping it in without a rebuild first. If I ever do see an olds engine in that good of condition it seems to be way over $1,000 When it comes to the LT1 the roadmaster was a huge poorly built car with a gigantic set of bumpers and a very long hood... the engine is usually in very good condition whenever I see one at the junkyard for this reason whereas with the olds engine it could be a gamble the LT1 seems like a much better gamble. From anyone's perspective that doesn't know a bunch of trustworthy hot rodders it's not a fun prospect to take a gamble on an oldsmobile engine not knowing it's history and having no clue how bad / not that bad the wreck the car it came out of may have been in etc...

I think when I said 'plug and play' I meant more like after the engine is installed not having to really do anything else to it, since the OP implied he was going to put it up in the garage for only occasional use...

If I could spend more like $3,500 I would keep my olds : olds - but its 2014 and it was just a recession. I think I'd rather spend closer to $1,500 and just have the extra 100 hp - Today, not next week, today... That's essentially what the chevrolet vs olds argument is to me - its just stupid. Maybe if some of you guys lived closer to metropolitan areas you would understand how quickly a life could end and that not all of us have endless hours to be standing at workbenches grinding away under lights with masks on like we're jesse james but we live in the real world and drive around dreaming and wishing that's what we could be doing while we are really doing some other extremely boring activity so if the car were to break down we need the part Today, not next week with a money order, today, and paying with cash.
 
Oct 14, 2008
8,826
7,779
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Melville,Saskatchewan
That sounds like the 455 around here. I can get Olds 350's for $120-$200 here, they can keep their knocking 455's for $700.
 
Oct 14, 2008
8,826
7,779
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
This wants 11's, guys who know the 2004R trans say it is a crap shoot above 400 ft/lbs. The 7.5" is also another weak spot. You probably can get a decent 2004R built for much less being close to a guru. My local builder would no doubt be in that range and a gamble. I am approaching $1000 on a upgraded used trans after shipping and a new torque converter. Add $100 to $120 for fluid, filter and I will be $1000+. A slightly used GT Mustang or SS Camero with a couple bolt ons, will reliably fit his requirements.
 

88olds32

Apprentice
Feb 10, 2014
72
10
8
I should update and add some more info. First, my 1/4 mile eta's were a bit off. Maybe something in the mid 12's to low 13's would be more appropriate . Second, I live in California, and will have to keep all my smog equipment. I'm unsure how it will play out (smog wise) if I were to stay with an Olds engine from the 1960's/1970's.

Sure, I would like to swap in an Olds engine and keep the car true to it's name, but as some have mentioned, the Olds engines (around where I live) are hard to find, and the one's I've seen are in crappy condition and need to be rebuilt. I called a place (Mondello's) and they have a 403 Olds (Trans Am - not sure how Trans Am is involved) engine for a decent price....spits out 400HP and 450lbs of TQ.

Yes, I know I will need a stronger rear end (to replace my weak 7.5, with 2.56 gears), and possibly have my current transmission rebuilt (TH200r4), but I'm in no hurry. I might start with the rear end first, then have the transmission rebuilt, then focus on the engine.
 

DoubleV

Royal Smart Person
Feb 25, 2011
2,154
406
83
Medina Ohio
88olds32 said:
I might start with the rear end first, then have the transmission rebuilt, then focus on the engine.

Always a good choice.

As far as LEGAL engine swaps in California, you better find out 100% for certain what you can and cannot do. The way I remember it is you simply cannot swap an engine in your car that is earlier than the year of your car. So if you have an 80's Cutlass and you want another Olds engine other than a 307, it ain't gonna happen. You also need every single emission piece in place too. So basicaly, your fvcked.
 

pencero

Royal Smart Person
Feb 20, 2008
1,466
25
38
Ind.
OMG you should have mentioned the california thing to begin w/ because your state is the only 1 that's a whole different story. In your state the cutlass isn't considered a classic so removing the 307 basically becomes illegal... The only engine you can even try to use is the 350 olds and whoever puts it in would have to do a really good job not only disguising it but making it pass a high emission standard. If you want to do up your cutlass it will just end up at the strip. Yes, your 'order of operations' is correct for any other state except the one you are in. In cali you might as well build the engine ahead of time and not do any of that stuff first b/c if it cant superceed the emission standard of the original egr then the car isn't going anywhere except maybe the track/ the strip b/c you will never be able to get plates on it again..
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
9,616
12,688
113
Michigan
So basically we have three pages of the great Olds/ Chevy debate just to find out the OP lives in California where he can barely open his hood without breaking emission laws. :rofl:
Being in California leaves you with limited options:
Build your car as a dedicated race car if you want to go fast but it will never see street duty.
Keep your car basically stock so that it passes all your emission testing and just live with the 16 second? 1/4 mile times.
Save up your money and buy a Chevrolet E-rod 50 state legal crate engine and everything you need to legally support it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-1 ... /overview/
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
9,616
12,688
113
Michigan
quote="DoubleV"]
88olds32 said:
I might start with the rear end first, then have the transmission rebuilt, then focus on the engine.

Always a good choice.

As far as LEGAL engine swaps in California, you better find out 100% for certain what you can and cannot do. The way I remember it is you simply cannot swap an engine in your car that is earlier than the year of your car. So if you have an 80's Cutlass and you want another Olds engine other than a 307, it ain't gonna happen. You also need every single emission piece in place too. So basicaly, your fvcked.[/quote]


X2
 

ssn696

Living in the Past
Supporting Member
Jul 19, 2009
5,547
6,671
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Permanent Temporary
What can anyone say about the Buick 455? This seems to the most challenging old school engine as far as finding performance parts. I have one buried in my shed, and I am not sure whether to hold onto it or share.
 
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