BUILD THREAD “The Juggernaut”

Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,180
23,990
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I love this thing! Keep up with the good work. As for the hood pin, I agree with Texas82GP with all the custom work and then finishing it off with a common hardware part just does not seem right to me.

Thank you for responding Zach, I value everybody's opinion!

As I mentioned to Jared, I'll run the lynch pins for now, but keep my eyes open for better and nicer alternatives.
:)

Lynch pins, but I actually don't like either of the rings...might rather see something that just folds and clamps once the hood is closed, but not sure if that even exists....

Edit: either way is just splitting hairs lol, gonna look stellar anyways, but I know it'll bug you if you don't like it. Your eye will draw to them every time and piss you off-getting to know you Donovan lol

Damn. Now THERE'S a guy that really IS getting to know me!
;)
Seriously tho, you hit the nail on the head there Rick. If it bugs me at all now, it'll likely really piss me off every time I look at it in the future.
To be honest, I really am ok with the lynch pins, I kind've like the raw and aggressive racey vibe they give off. I wouldn't have bought the kit if I didn't.

This car is going to be a bit of a tricky balancing act between raw, in your face, aggressive hardcore parts and performance, combined with subtle custom touches and refined polished pieces for that upscale feel.
Won't be an easy task, but I think I can pull it off.

So after everyone's input, the unanimous decision has been made to run with the lynch pins that came with the kit, as they were designed to. For now, anyways.

Thanks again for all your replies, comments, and input guys.
It truly is appreciated and invaluable.

Donovan
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,180
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Alright guys, earlier I eluded to chasing down a G body "unicorn" yesterday.

What I was referring to was something I wasn't even aware existed in/on G bodies:

METAL front wheel wells.

Call it ignorance or just uninformed, but I wasn't aware and had no idea that any G body came with metal wheel wells. Every one I have ever seen or knew of always had the plastic ones, including the ones that originally came on my Cutlass.

During my last couple of trips to my local auto wreckers to find parts for Texas82GP and LiquidH8, there were two Pontiacs there, an '80 GP, and a '78 LeMans, BOTH of which had metal wheel wells.
The idea of having and using metal ones for the 'Naut has been on my radar for quite some time. The car originally, like most others came equipped with plastic ones, and while fine for most applications, weren't what I wanted or needed to fit my bill.

I needed something that I could cut up, modify, and smooth to match the theme of the rest of the car. Some time ago, Jack (Longroof79) had asked me what I was going to do for wheel wells when I got to that part of the build. I thought I was going to have to buy some for a '69 Camaro or something with a similar wheel opening shape, and cut and weld those up to meet what I needed.

Then, lo and behold, I came across these! The ones on the LeMans were pretty rusty, but the ones from the GP were in decent shape. So yesterday morning, I went down and pulled them. Once I got back to the garage, I immediately got to work on test fitting them to a spare fender I have left over from when I parted out the Brown Bomber.

As expected, they're not a direct bolt-in as the '80 GP has a much more round wheel opening shape than the Cutlass. But I will say this: It's damn close. A lot closer than I expected it to be actually.
:)
But more importantly, it's in a material that I can actually DO something with. The plastic would've been too limited in what I could do with them in terms of smoothing and customizing them. I initially had concerns that the metal ones would be heavier than the plastic, but as it turns out, once I removed them from the car, they're actually quite light. Possibly even lighter than the plastic ones?

I won't be getting to cutting these up and customizing them for quite a bit yet, with the car being on air ride, the tops of the front tires just touch the bottoms of the inner fender openings with no wheel wells installed. So the inner openings on the fenders will have to be raised an inch or so, and the wheel wells will have to follow suit.

Front Airride (4).JPG


I think what I'll do is media blast them to remove the years of crud, paint and rust, epoxy coat the hell outta them, then put them away in safe storage until I'm ready for them.

Anyways, here's some pics of my "unicorns".

IMG_1958.JPG


IMG_1959.JPG


Driver's side test fit on the spare fender:

IMG_1960.JPG


IMG_1961.JPG


You can see how close some of holes are to lining up with the fender...

IMG_1962.JPG


IMG_1963.JPG


Anyways, that's it for now. Thanks for letting me share with y'all.

Donovan
 
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Kiko

Master Mechanic
Apr 14, 2009
300
341
63
Ottawa, Canada
This is indeed a great "find" and very useful info for us "G-body" folks! I've been following your build very closely from the start but rarely post. Congrats for the outstanding work! Great inspiration for us all. Good luck and please keep posting!

BTW, I had the same problem with my inner wheel wells -- the factory ones have all those humps and holes which detract from a "simple" look. Not knowing about this metal option I spent much time modifying mine.

Wheel Well 1.jpg Wheel Well 2.jpg Wheel Well 3.jpg
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,180
23,990
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
This is indeed a great "find" and very useful info for us "G-body" folks! I've been following your build very closely from the start but rarely post. Congrats for the outstanding work! Great inspiration for us all. Good luck and please keep posting!

BTW, I had the same problem with my inner wheel wells -- the factory ones have all those humps and holes which detract from a "simple" look. Not knowing about this metal option I spent much time modifying mine.

View attachment 56530 View attachment 56531 View attachment 56532

Kiko,
Thanks for posting. I'm glad the info I provided on the availability of metal wheel wells might be an option for some folks.
I suppose that info could've been acquired via a simple question posted to everyone on here, but having never seen any before it didn't even occur to me to ask.
:(
The time and effort you've put into yours looks like it's paid off in spades - they look great! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks very much for the kind comments, I've still got a long ways to go, but so far it's finally starting to match the vision I've had in my head all these years. I'm extremely happy with the results.

Stay tuned, there'll be much, much more to come!

Donovan
 
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liquidh8

Comic Book Super Hero
I've never seen metal wheel wells, so this is new to me. They will be great for you to be able to modify. Awesome score!
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,180
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Still wrapped up in metal work on the hood this week.

I'm trying to get as much metal work on the hood done as possible with it in place. I've already spent a TON of time adjusting all the panels (hood, hinges, bumpstops, fenders, header panel etc) as best I can within the factory adjustment parameters.
Now it's time to go custom and fine tune all the gaps to where I feel they should be.

So with that being said, one area that has always irritated me beyond belief is where the back corners of the hood, top back corners of the fenders, and the top front of the doors all convene.

From the factory, there's a chrome strip that runs across the back of the hood. It meets up with tiny little chrome trim pieces that sit on the top back corners of the fenders, then continues on to tie into the wide chrome belt mouldings on the tops of the doors.

With the custom 3" raised cowl section on the new hood, the chrome strip along the back is out. Which is totally ok with me, as I had planned to eliminate it all along anyways.

Same with the goofy tiny pieces that sit on the tops of the fenders. I always hated those pieces anyways, as they usually loosen off and flop around not lining up to anything. That, and they never appeared to be the right shape anyways. So those are gone too.

The fronts of the wide belt mouldings on the tops of the doors has a nice shape to it that doesn't look out of place to start the chrome trim that frames the side windows. So those will stay.

My biggest pet peeve with this area is that there isn't continuity of a consistent line across all three panels. And because they're all so close together, it's terribly obvious and sticks out like a sore thumb. Especially when the chrome trim pieces are removed.
So, as mentioned before, time to get custom.

My thoughts on panel gaps is that the car should look like it was formed out of one single piece of steel, and then the openings were cut into it with a laser or something. It's that simple. Clean, consistent gaps the same width all the way through.

With that thought and philosophy in mind, that's how I decided to approach fixing up these areas.
Y'all might think I've totally gone off my rocker this time, but I actually physically welded all three panels together in this area. It seemed to me that it would be easier and look more correct if I could work all three panels together at the same time.

The pictures should tell the tale.
This is the passenger's side with the chrome trim pieces already removed, the hole in the top of the fender for the stud of the trim piece welded up, and the primer sanded back.

IMG_1936.JPG


It really doesn't look that bad in the pictures, but as I said earlier I spent a ton of time trying to align everything as best as possible. Trust me when I say it looks worse in person.

IMG_1937.JPG


The driver's side:

IMG_1938.JPG


IMG_1939.JPG


So, full steam ahead. Fire up the glue gun and get to it!
:D

IMG_1940.JPG


IMG_1941.JPG


Yup, that's right, I totally just welded all three panels together!
:eek:

It's a good thing that I don't mind filing, as I would say about 95% of the welds were FILED down, not ground down.
The little air powered grinder I usually use would have been too aggressive and wouldn't work in these tight confines anyways. The tops of the welds were lightly dressed with the grinder just to smooth out the lumps and make it easier to start the file. The rest was done by hand.

Here's a couple "in progress" pics so you can see the progression. I had a couple of "oh sh*t, what have I gotten myself into this time?" moments, but I just kept after it, filing and shaping the panels together.

IMG_1944.JPG


Eventually, it started to look like something...

IMG_1946.JPG


Once I had the curvature across the top right and the faces filed flat, I cut the openings back between the panels, and dressed down the edges with the files. I checked my progress with a piece of 3/16" flat stock that I'm using as my panel gap gauge. This should work well, and leave me with about an 1/8" gap after paint and primer.
The next pic shows the gap finished between the hood and fender:

IMG_1947.JPG


Continued >>>
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,180
23,990
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
IMG_1948.JPG


The next area was a bit more tricky. After separating the door and the fender with a 1/16" cutoff disc, the gap was filed into place from the bottom up using the serrated edge of the file almost like a saw. Then the edges were rounded over to match the factory shape.

The finished product:

IMG_1965.JPG


As you can see, the curvature as well as the thickness of all three panels is now uniform. As well as consistent gaps. Looks much better in my opinion.

IMG_1964.JPG


Just for comparisons sake, let's look at the before and after...
Before:

IMG_1936.JPG

After.
IMG_1964.JPG


It may not look as dramatic in the pics, but in person it's quite remarkable. Looks like it should have looked from the factory in my opinion.

So the passenger's side is finished, just ready for a skim of putty, some block sanding, and primer. Hence the aggressive grinding marks on the faces of the panels. I'm now onto the driver's side, just got the welding done tonight. Tomorrow night, back to filing again...

Let me know what you guys think. I know it might be tough to gauge from the pics, but do you think it was worth the effort? Or am I just being waaay too particular?

Thanks everyone,
Donovan
 
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Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
7,989
18,702
113
Spring, Texas
Donovan,

That's awesome work. Your attention to detail is great for my OCD. I really admire your talent with fabrication and metal work.

Guys,

He can deny it all he wants but it looks like he's building one for the Riddler to me! :p
 
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liquidh8

Comic Book Super Hero
That was also a pet peeve of mine, I welded rod to the ends of my panels to get the gaps closer. Looks great my friend!
 
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Longroof79

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Oct 14, 2008
12,178
9,798
113
Gainesville, Fl
Donovan,
These cars never had gaps that looked that good from the factory. Like the other guys said, your attention to detail is incredible...

I remember when I was doing the bodywork on my Porsche, I used welding rod to fill the gaps, much like Jim had mentioned. Although, I used oxy-acetylene at the time.

I enjoy seeing how you address different areas of your car. Keep up the excellent work, my friend.
You never cease to amaze me.

Btw, great score on the metal wheel wells. I honestly had no idea that these things existed. At least you'll be able to work with them, tweak them, modify them, etc... unlike the plastic variety.
 
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