Technically I guess it is, but it's a bit of an exception in terms of snowfall. It's over 7000' I'm altitude and nestled right up to the mountains. We will only ever see half the snow they do at best here in Colorado Springs. Pueblo even less. Denver maybe a little more than us? But up in the mountains yeah, some places will see that 4'. It's 100+ miles from here to get to some good snowmobile riding.
What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2023]
- Thread starter Wraith
- Start date
Technically I guess it is, but it's a bit of an exception in terms of snowfall. It's over 7000' I'm altitude and nestled right up to the mountains. We will only ever see half the snow they do at best here in Colorado Springs. Pueblo even less. Denver maybe a little more than us? But up in the mountains yeah, some places will see that 4'. It's 100+ miles from here to get to some good snowmobile riding.
This one here is what I put in my SS and my Z06, all pretty much the same price.
Tick Performance Remote Clutch SPEEDbleeder Line for 97-04 Corvette & Z06, 04-06 GTO & 98-02 Camaro & Firebird LS1
Why wrestle with your hydraulic system every time you want to bleed it? Rely on Tick Performance to make the job much easier for you with our "One Man Job" Remote Clutch SPEEDbleeder Line. Fits 97-04 Corvette & Z06, 04-06 GTO & 98-02 Camaro & Firebird LS1
www.tickperformance.com
See what the LS7 Clutch Kit is from them too.
You see where it goes in the GTO, which is pretty much the same as the Fbody given the same transmission setup. I put one in my Z06 when I did a Master Cyl replacement from killing it at Tail of the Dragon, that is where that $50 part is next level worth it.
To bleed the Clutch in the C5-C7 Corvette you need to remove the Exhaust and Floor Pan Mid Brace just to even get to the bleeder bolt you see there off to the right..
The reason why it's spaced apart like that is because I took that Speed Bleeder and installed it in the car without removing the Slave Cyl. The planets had to align for this to happen. It got done tho, only had to make one custom tool, deep well 1/4" socket cut out to clear the line while I could tighten the line on the AN Fitting that it goes on, there is an adapter you install first on the Slave Cyl with the copper washer.
Pics here of the fun that was involved..
Stock bleeder bolt removed and adapter in
Bleeder line tightened on the adapter
Bleeder line ran along the stock line to the Slace Cyl and heat wrapped. I have it secured to the Hood Latch on that side if I need it
I probably posted pics at the time I did this, talking about again doesn't hurt given in this car that $50 part is worth it's weight in gold. Sooo much time saved with having that installed. Supercharged111 some info here if you have to do it, it can be installed in the car without removing the Torque Tube, just takes one custom tool and a few choice words..
This one here is what I put in my SS and my Z06, all pretty much the same price.
Tick Performance Remote Clutch SPEEDbleeder Line for 97-04 Corvette & Z06, 04-06 GTO & 98-02 Camaro & Firebird LS1
Why wrestle with your hydraulic system every time you want to bleed it? Rely on Tick Performance to make the job much easier for you with our "One Man Job" Remote Clutch SPEEDbleeder Line. Fits 97-04 Corvette & Z06, 04-06 GTO & 98-02 Camaro & Firebird LS1
See what the LS7 Clutch Kit is from them too.
You see where it goes in the GTO, which is pretty much the same as the Fbody given the same transmission setup. I put one in my Z06 when I did a Master Cyl replacement from killing it at Tail of the Dragon, that is where that $50 part is next level worth it.
To bleed the Clutch in the C5-C7 Corvette you need to remove the Exhaust and Floor Pan Mid Brace just to even get to the bleeder bolt you see there off to the right..
View attachment 236641
View attachment 236644
The reason why it's spaced apart like that is because I took that Speed Bleeder and installed it in the car without removing the Slave Cyl. The planets had to align for this to happen. It got done tho, only had to make one custom tool, deep well 1/4" socket cut out to clear the line while I could tighten the line on the AN Fitting that it goes on, there is an adapter you install first on the Slave Cyl with the copper washer.
Pics here of the fun that was involved..
View attachment 236639
Stock bleeder bolt removed and adapter in
View attachment 236643
Bleeder line tightened on the adapter
View attachment 236640
Bleeder line ran along the stock line to the Slace Cyl and heat wrapped. I have it secured to the Hood Latch on that side if I need it
View attachment 236642
I probably posted pics at the time I did this, talking about again doesn't hurt given in this car that $50 part is worth it's weight in gold. Sooo much time saved with having that installed. Supercharged111 some info here if you have to do it, it can be installed in the car without removing the Torque Tube, just takes one custom tool and a few choice words..
I did mine back in 2013 when I dropped the drivetrain to replace reverse. Swapped in a fresh slave and remote bleeder while I was in there. Worth its weight in gold to be able to completely flush the system with so little effort. The ranger method can eat my as$.
Back at the 48 SPL. I guess some prior owner had removed the shift linkage. The detent ball, spring, and guide, must have shot out and disappeared, because they were missing. Those three parts cost over $50 new, but I found two used complete sets on Fleabay for $25. Once they were inserted back in the hole, I lined up the detent plate, and tried to get the shifter rod to engage. It would not. I had to unscrew the shifter rod three turns from the shifter cradle down in the lower unit. Then the rod lined up with the shifter detent linkage. Now the shifter detent on the side of the power head, and the detent down in the gearcase, are synchronized and working properly. Everything works off NEUTRAL so if it is not totally right, shifting problems arise. Next is the wiring. I am almost done, but I need to upgrade the acc/lighting glass fuse to a modern ATC fuse.
Finally swapped the door armor into the replacement door on the Crown Vic. Its bullet proof on both sides again, plus the weight is better balanced again.
We talked about this in this thread, I'll back my statement. Got out at 10:30am and left at 3:30.. scenery is out. 👀
Who wants to see some "Bubba days gud nuff" level southern quality work?
They supposedly repaired the water leak, very personable guy. Found the cutoff valve actually had a rusted up handle, replaced that and a leaking end of pvc pipe attached to it.
The next morning literally woke up to this:
Fluctuating around 4.3-4.5 gpm.
So, it turns out, the guy removed the metal valve and pvc coupling from the copper at slab, and, replaced them with pvc which.... failed. Split through the side. They apologized and said, my bad, I'll fix it, I think there was too much stress on the connection.
Returned in the afternoon to WTF is this?:
It appears to be some omega-shaped splice into the waterline, clear code violation that requires external water feed lines buried at least 6 inches below frost line and a minimum overall of 12 inches - this thing goes above grade by 4 inches, meaning, you'd need 16" of regrade fill, including burying the lower openings of the windows below ground.
So many reason is a no-go.
I have a theory. The initial service call showed a badly corroded cutoff valve buried without an irrigation box at entry to slab, plus damage to the plastic service line. (That line damage, being perfectly round, I attribute to them striking with the metal probe.)
Their initial repair removed a brass valve and one assumes a piece of the copper feed line and replaced both with plastic. The repair cracked. My expectation is the metal line was angled and the plastic couldn't hold the strain and pressure of being at an angle. When taking up the space formerly occupied by metal. Knowing his elected repair the first visit couldn't do the job, and, not wanting to have to replace with metal the way it originally was due to time and cost, they substituted this complicated overgrown contraption.
What's worse is, a short time later the other talf turned on the kitchen faucet and said the water felt slimy and milky white. When I went to it I could smell a strong solvent smell. To the water, which, as it ran within under a minute slowed to barely a trickle albeit without the smell, all from the cold water side of things.
So, in addition to the freeze and rupture hazard code violation to sort out, I need to ascertain what happened across house in the kitchen and worry about the rest of the house plumbing including the water heater (gas) which is a rupture hazard if it's water feed dries up or is interrupted.
All while relatively incapacitated at the moment due to chemo complications, the whole reason for hiring a sussposedly licensed and bonded shop to begin with for the outside issue.
If I knew this would happen I'd have shut down the water at the meter and gone on vacation 1,2,3 months, whatever it took hoping to fix it myself when I was back and hopefully recovered.
They supposedly repaired the water leak, very personable guy. Found the cutoff valve actually had a rusted up handle, replaced that and a leaking end of pvc pipe attached to it.
The next morning literally woke up to this:
Fluctuating around 4.3-4.5 gpm.
So, it turns out, the guy removed the metal valve and pvc coupling from the copper at slab, and, replaced them with pvc which.... failed. Split through the side. They apologized and said, my bad, I'll fix it, I think there was too much stress on the connection.
Returned in the afternoon to WTF is this?:
It appears to be some omega-shaped splice into the waterline, clear code violation that requires external water feed lines buried at least 6 inches below frost line and a minimum overall of 12 inches - this thing goes above grade by 4 inches, meaning, you'd need 16" of regrade fill, including burying the lower openings of the windows below ground.
So many reason is a no-go.
I have a theory. The initial service call showed a badly corroded cutoff valve buried without an irrigation box at entry to slab, plus damage to the plastic service line. (That line damage, being perfectly round, I attribute to them striking with the metal probe.)
Their initial repair removed a brass valve and one assumes a piece of the copper feed line and replaced both with plastic. The repair cracked. My expectation is the metal line was angled and the plastic couldn't hold the strain and pressure of being at an angle. When taking up the space formerly occupied by metal. Knowing his elected repair the first visit couldn't do the job, and, not wanting to have to replace with metal the way it originally was due to time and cost, they substituted this complicated overgrown contraption.
What's worse is, a short time later the other talf turned on the kitchen faucet and said the water felt slimy and milky white. When I went to it I could smell a strong solvent smell. To the water, which, as it ran within under a minute slowed to barely a trickle albeit without the smell, all from the cold water side of things.
So, in addition to the freeze and rupture hazard code violation to sort out, I need to ascertain what happened across house in the kitchen and worry about the rest of the house plumbing including the water heater (gas) which is a rupture hazard if it's water feed dries up or is interrupted.
All while relatively incapacitated at the moment due to chemo complications, the whole reason for hiring a sussposedly licensed and bonded shop to begin with for the outside issue.
If I knew this would happen I'd have shut down the water at the meter and gone on vacation 1,2,3 months, whatever it took hoping to fix it myself when I was back and hopefully recovered.
I've seen hacked stuff across the country, why I do my own work or watch what's being done. There's speshul people everywhere.
Not today, but mid last week the eternal "swap a SBC into a 1950 Mercury" project left my driveway to go in for exhaust. It will be back for tuning/troubleshooting after it's fixed from 'don't want to piss off my neighbors with open headers' status.
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