BUILD THREAD 84 Regal back half/caged/mini tubbed lq4/4l80e build

[64nailhead]

I’m curious about the converter? Did Circle D recommend that?

Regarding a cooler, look at a Dana TruCool- the 32k and 40k are big. I’m using a 40k without the radiator cooler and seems to work well.

 

[Roblq84]

I’m curious about the converter? Did Circle D recommend that?

Regarding a cooler, look at a Dana TruCool- the 32k and 40k are big. I’m using a 40k without the radiator cooler and seems to work well.

They did, are you asking because of the stall? I was actually surprised myself at how high they recommended, but I trust their expertise, The lq4 makes peak hp around 5500 rpm, and has right under a 600 lift cam, but off the foot brake it should only hold to around 3-3200 anyway, they offer a free restall as well for the first year or 6 months believe. Going to do 4.10s eventually, the lockup/OD should help at cruising speeds, it’s also not a daily driver not too concerned over drivability 😁

And I’ll check it out! Thanks for the recommendation

 

[Sweet_Johnny]

I also chose a Circle D converter for a non-G body project but went a little lower with stall selection. Circle D, Yank, and a few others often recommend stalls that seem high but they work out perfectly due to the STR (stall/ torque ratio) they've tailored to the application. Here is a discussion regarding the topic on another forum: https://www.ls1gto.com/threads/torque-converter-stall-to-torque-raito-str-simplified.349786/

And another: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automati...e-converter-stall-torque-ratio-str-guide.html

 

[Tony1968]

I also chose a Circle D converter for a non-G body project but went a little lower with stall selection. Circle D, Yank, and a few others often recommend stalls that seem high but they work out perfectly due to the STR (stall/ torque ratio) they've tailored to the application. Here is a discussion regarding the topic on another forum: https://www.ls1gto.com/threads/torque-converter-stall-to-torque-raito-str-simplified.349786/

And another: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automati...e-converter-stall-torque-ratio-str-guide.html

Excellent article and explanation. Thanks

 

[64nailhead]

They did, are you asking because of the stall? I was actually surprised myself at how high they recommended, but I trust their expertise, The lq4 makes peak hp around 5500 rpm, and has right under a 600 lift cam, but off the foot brake it should only hold to around 3-3200 anyway, they offer a free restall as well for the first year or 6 months believe. Going to do 4.10s eventually, the lockup/OD should help at cruising speeds, it’s also not a daily driver not too concerned over drivability 😁

And I’ll check it out! Thanks for the recommendation

Not the stall, but the diameter. They advised me against the 245mm due to HP and weight. So I ordered the larger diameter with 3800 stall and advised I was looking for 700-800 rpm drop on shifts at full load. But the shift drop was ALOT more than that. I sent it back and they loosened 'all that it could' be loosened and I'm still seeing more than 1000. Their solution was more power or buy the bolt together unit for over $2500, which was out of my budget. Especially considering they wouldn't offer me any credit on the $1400 I had already spent ;/

So I'm turning up the power lol. But I intended to do that anyway and I'm getting by with 1000-1050 rpm drop on the shifts. I'm hoping the shift drop improves after I add another 100-200HP. Time will tell. Other than the shift drop, the converter works flawlessly cruising and doesn't slip at all lower rpm's pulling a trailer. When the trailer is full for DnD events I'm about 5500, so I really can't complain. Pete Nichols, at Circle D, advised that I'd need a compromise of sorts due to application, which I guess I have.

I can stall mine to 4K, which is plenty, on the transbrake allowing me to build boost decently. I have upgraded turbo to a BB unit and the brief amount of testing I've done this far, it builds boost in a flash - so I believe I'm good..............until I damage the transmission haha.

Good luck to you and I'm following.

 

[Roblq84]

Yesterday was the first drive! When I first received the Fitech’s ultimate ls system I called and made sure I had to latest software version, during the drive yesterday I was having issues with it stalling, I replaced the TPS once since I couldn’t get it to hold adjustment, this time it was doing the same thing with an acdelco, the latest version is 1.53 which most likely came out a week after I called. It’s a glitch in the self tuning learning where the tps bounces from .5-17.7 volts at a stand still , updated it and it’s been great

 

[64nailhead]

3.73 with that tire will work fine. That’s what I’m using and they should work until I can get above 155 at the stripe.

Forgive me if I asked before, but what is controlling the trans/converter? No way you should be topped at at 70mph with that gear, especially if the converter is locked. ******CHECK on trans control question - I see the FiTech unit you have controls it. How do you command line pressure (EPC solenoid)?

Have you checked line pressure or know the status of the trans before the transplant?

 

[64nailhead]

thats reassuring to know its got more in it for that gearing. so the display does say the gear you are in and line pressure, I have not driven the car enough to say, but just sounds like it’s screaming, according to the calculator there’s only another 2500 rpm left since I have the limiter to 6k for now. I could also just have a bad trans 🤷🏻‍♂️ or need to adjust the shifter and ensure it’s seated in the gear. I can set the lockup speed as well, I believe it’s preset at 39 or 49 mph
But the update could have also fixed the issue, once I get more seat time I can ensure and double check the readings are where they should be, atleast I know a target rpm now, the TPS issue could have been affecting the shifts as well

overdrive would be .75-1 would I just do the math .75 say 3500 for 1:1, I should be at roughly 2600 rpm in OD at

Something is whacky there. I don’t know how FiTech calculates road speed or rpm. But it does sounds like it was in 3rd, not 4th (overdrive).

Can you you feel each shift?

 

[64nailhead]

So I think I figured it out,
64nailhead is absolutely correct, something whacky was indeed going on 🤣

Fitech has 2 plugs for the transmission,
The VSS 2 pin, and the round connector,
On my transmission, the front sensor located above the shifter is the ISS, input speed sensor,
And the one towards the rear has a dummy plug where the VSS reads from.
the sensor needs to be swapped from iss to vss front to rear, I believe that’s why I’m having these issues, and trans is going into limp mode, I was told the trans came from a 2wd van, some one didn’t know what they were doing and switched the sensor locations, hence why it’s plugged, and probably why they sold it because they couldn’t get it work correctly, or it was a rebuilt unit originally from a 4wd, they changed the output shaft and tail housing for a 2wd application, and put the sensor in the wrong spot after converting it, I guess I’ll never know the story behind it, but all I can do at this point is pray there is a reluctor ring and swap them and see what happens, This answers why ive noticed it short shifts into second and searches for gears, and why I’m showing speed in idle, and why I’m really maxing out the mph as if it’s slipping,

When I seen you mentioned that it was seeing speed at idle, not moving I was going to mention that you probably have the input shaft speed and vehicle speed sensors swapped.

FWIW, I live on Drag Lites - I have three sets (recently grabbed another set) for street tires, drag radials, and slicks. You should have no concern about their safety as long as you have proper wheel bolt engagement.

Regarding the breaking up, you need to review a datalog, but my 1st guess would be fuel pressure is nosing over. I seen you're using a Corvette style fuel filter/regulator with the return in in it. Ummm, I usually refer to those as 'damn Corvette filter'. I've remote tuned two cars with those and they create issues with Holley for most any motor is boosted or a fair amount hotter than stock. I'm not saying that is your issue, but I'm confident that it's not helping you.

 

[64nailhead]

I don’t think I was clear. Both sensors and sensor connectors are the same, one is towards the front of the trans and the VSS is towards the rear. I’m curious if the FiTech datalogs input shaft speed?

Holley does and it’s extremely handy for determining converter slip %. The input shaft speed divided by rpm is converter slip %. It makes it simple to see where the converter is grabbing and where it isn’t.