BUILD THREAD 84 Regal back half/caged/mini tubbed lq4/4l80e build

[64nailhead]

I’m curious about the converter? Did Circle D recommend that?

Regarding a cooler, look at a Dana TruCool- the 32k and 40k are big. I’m using a 40k without the radiator cooler and seems to work well.

 

[Roblq84]

I’m curious about the converter? Did Circle D recommend that?

Regarding a cooler, look at a Dana TruCool- the 32k and 40k are big. I’m using a 40k without the radiator cooler and seems to work well.

They did, are you asking because of the stall? I was actually surprised myself at how high they recommended, but I trust their expertise, The lq4 makes peak hp around 5500 rpm, and has right under a 600 lift cam, but off the foot brake it should only hold to around 3-3200 anyway, they offer a free restall as well for the first year or 6 months believe. Going to do 4.10s eventually, the lockup/OD should help at cruising speeds, it’s also not a daily driver not too concerned over drivability 😁

And I’ll check it out! Thanks for the recommendation

 

[Sweet_Johnny]

I also chose a Circle D converter for a non-G body project but went a little lower with stall selection. Circle D, Yank, and a few others often recommend stalls that seem high but they work out perfectly due to the STR (stall/ torque ratio) they've tailored to the application. Here is a discussion regarding the topic on another forum: https://www.ls1gto.com/threads/torque-converter-stall-to-torque-raito-str-simplified.349786/

And another: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automati...e-converter-stall-torque-ratio-str-guide.html

 

[Tony1968]

I also chose a Circle D converter for a non-G body project but went a little lower with stall selection. Circle D, Yank, and a few others often recommend stalls that seem high but they work out perfectly due to the STR (stall/ torque ratio) they've tailored to the application. Here is a discussion regarding the topic on another forum: https://www.ls1gto.com/threads/torque-converter-stall-to-torque-raito-str-simplified.349786/

And another: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automati...e-converter-stall-torque-ratio-str-guide.html

Excellent article and explanation. Thanks

 

[64nailhead]

They did, are you asking because of the stall? I was actually surprised myself at how high they recommended, but I trust their expertise, The lq4 makes peak hp around 5500 rpm, and has right under a 600 lift cam, but off the foot brake it should only hold to around 3-3200 anyway, they offer a free restall as well for the first year or 6 months believe. Going to do 4.10s eventually, the lockup/OD should help at cruising speeds, it’s also not a daily driver not too concerned over drivability 😁

And I’ll check it out! Thanks for the recommendation

Not the stall, but the diameter. They advised me against the 245mm due to HP and weight. So I ordered the larger diameter with 3800 stall and advised I was looking for 700-800 rpm drop on shifts at full load. But the shift drop was ALOT more than that. I sent it back and they loosened 'all that it could' be loosened and I'm still seeing more than 1000. Their solution was more power or buy the bolt together unit for over $2500, which was out of my budget. Especially considering they wouldn't offer me any credit on the $1400 I had already spent ;/

So I'm turning up the power lol. But I intended to do that anyway and I'm getting by with 1000-1050 rpm drop on the shifts. I'm hoping the shift drop improves after I add another 100-200HP. Time will tell. Other than the shift drop, the converter works flawlessly cruising and doesn't slip at all lower rpm's pulling a trailer. When the trailer is full for DnD events I'm about 5500, so I really can't complain. Pete Nichols, at Circle D, advised that I'd need a compromise of sorts due to application, which I guess I have.

I can stall mine to 4K, which is plenty, on the transbrake allowing me to build boost decently. I have upgraded turbo to a BB unit and the brief amount of testing I've done this far, it builds boost in a flash - so I believe I'm good..............until I damage the transmission haha.

Good luck to you and I'm following.

 

[Roblq84]

Yesterday was the first drive! When I first received the Fitech’s ultimate ls system I called and made sure I had to latest software version, during the drive yesterday I was having issues with it stalling, I replaced the TPS once since I couldn’t get it to hold adjustment, this time it was doing the same thing with an acdelco, the latest version is 1.53 which most likely came out a week after I called. It’s a glitch in the self tuning learning where the tps bounces from .5-17.7 volts at a stand still , updated it and it’s been great, I ordered the 40k trans cooler as well, temps were creeping up to ~200. As far as the converter goes it’s very hard for me to really feel it out as of right now since the car still has 4:88 gears, I’m topping out at like 50-60mph

What rear gear ratio do you recommend for 4l80 and that high of a stall (3800-4) to where I can cruise comfortabley, but also not build extreme heat on the converter every time I take off, especially with the tall first gear on the 4l80? I was considering 3:73s? Tire would be give or take 28-29 inch

She also got some paint today 😁

 

[64nailhead]

3.73 with that tire will work fine. That’s what I’m using and they should work until I can get above 155 at the stripe.

Forgive me if I asked before, but what is controlling the trans/converter? No way you should be topped at at 70mph with that gear, especially if the converter is locked. ******CHECK on trans control question - I see the FiTech unit you have controls it. How do you command line pressure (EPC solenoid)?

Have you checked line pressure or know the status of the trans before the transplant?

 

[Roblq84]

3.73 with that tire will work fine. That’s what I’m using and they should work until I can get above 155 at the stripe.

Forgive me if I asked before, but what is controlling the trans/converter? No way you should be topped at at 70mph with that gear, especially if the converter is locked. ******CHECK on trans control question - I see the FiTech unit you have controls it. How do you command line pressure (EPC solenoid)?

Have you checked line pressure or know the status of the trans before the transplant?

thats reassuring to know its got more in it for that gearing. so the display does say the gear you are in and line pressure, I have not driven the car enough to say, but just sounds like it’s screaming, according to the calculator there’s only another 2500 rpm left since I have the limiter to 6k for now. I could also just have a bad trans 🤷🏻‍♂️ or need to adjust the shifter and ensure it’s seated in the gear. I can set the lockup speed as well, I believe it’s preset at 39 or 49 mph
But the update could have also fixed the issue, once I get more seat time I can ensure and double check the readings are where they should be, atleast I know a target rpm now, the TPS issue could have been affecting the shifts as well

overdrive would be .75-1 would I just do the math .75 say 3500 for 1:1, I should be at roughly 2600 rpm in OD at 60mph?

 

[64nailhead]

thats reassuring to know its got more in it for that gearing. so the display does say the gear you are in and line pressure, I have not driven the car enough to say, but just sounds like it’s screaming, according to the calculator there’s only another 2500 rpm left since I have the limiter to 6k for now. I could also just have a bad trans 🤷🏻‍♂️ or need to adjust the shifter and ensure it’s seated in the gear. I can set the lockup speed as well, I believe it’s preset at 39 or 49 mph
But the update could have also fixed the issue, once I get more seat time I can ensure and double check the readings are where they should be, atleast I know a target rpm now, the TPS issue could have been affecting the shifts as well

overdrive would be .75-1 would I just do the math .75 say 3500 for 1:1, I should be at roughly 2600 rpm in OD at

Something is whacky there. I don’t know how FiTech calculates road speed or rpm. But it does sounds like it was in 3rd, not 4th (overdrive).

Can you you feel each shift?

 

[Roblq84]

Something is whacky there. I don’t know how FiTech calculates road speed or rpm. But it does sounds like it was in 3rd, not 4th (overdrive).

Can you you feel each shift?

So after driving it today, with the computer update, it does shift to overdrive, and does now lockup, in lockup it’s right at 26-2700 rpm cruising, when i tap the brake tc unlocks, stays in od and jumps to about 3200. I want to say the TPS readings were throwing it off causing erratic shifts.
BUT, the VSS is way off, fitech was closed over the long weekend today to do some troubleshooting and how to calibrate it, that also can be throwing off the shifts and OD/TC lockup.
It shows 7-11 mph at idle which is weird, checked the vss connection to make sure pins weren’t bent.

Also, it’s definitely breaking up under hard acceleration which I may have took for the trans slipping, when I ease into the throttle it will pull like a train, but when I just hammer down it starts choking, tell tale sign of starving for fuel or bad coils, spark plugs are light, not fouled, but again, that vss may be throwing off the tables for rpm to speed, who knows, I ordered 4 new rims as well, I don’t feel comfortable street driving on the weld draglites, I prefer steelies, rear 15x10 5x4.5 currently running 27.5s, fronts are 15x7 5x4.75 on 205s it’s parked until they come in.

Thanks for the input and help, will keep you all updated and let you know what the verdict is