BUILD THREAD 84 Regal back half/caged/mini tubbed lq4/4l80e build

Updates!

So I installed the trans cooler today, true cool 40k, bypassed the radiator because this is only a summer car, won’t see temperatures below 32, and yes I’ve read every single thing about about using the radiator water cools better first and what not, but for me I would rather not risk any cross contamination with an off brand radiator, temps are pretty stable at 140, shifts are nice and smooth, over all huge difference in drivability and the way the trans reacts.

called fitech and it came out to be a bad map sensor, key on should read around 90-100 kph, mine was shorted out internally or just crapped the bed, key on it would be at 90, and than jump around all over the place after 2-5 seconds,

Standard part number replacement is 12592525

FROM WHAT IVE LEARNED WITH USING THE FITECH ULTIMATE LS-

REPLACE ALL THE CHEAP CRAP SENSORS THE KIT COMES WITH!!

I’ve changed the tps, now map, and going to do the iac as well, every single one went bad within 3 months of use
 

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Fuel pressure wandering 20 psi on an MA setup is definitely going to cause issues.

Regarding sensors, I used to buy new.
But after several issues, I’m confident that used OEM always seem to be the most reliable.
 
How does the ECU control line pressure?
 
I’m able to increase it by percentages at different tps ranges per each shift
Hopefully you have it near maximum by 75% throttle. It’s worth checking with a manual gauge at the transmission. Even if the software is setup correctly, an internal issue that causes low line pressure will burn up every automatic trans.
 
6 month update,

After pulling the trans and diff, and let it collect some dust, the warm weather somewhat started here and motivated me to get back on it, the goal is to get an e/t on it this year.
4l80 is almost wrapped up with the rebuild with some goodies in it, going to pick it up and reinstall it next week, as well as a b&m progate shfter.
 
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I’m going to redo my fuel system, the c5 ffr even from the dealer is showing 70 psi at the rail, hence why it’s pulling some fuel trim and extended hovering deceleration.

Going with a Holley bypass regulator, block one outlet Port, so feed to one rail, out the other to the regulator and running another -6 up front as a return out the bottom of it.

I purchased a 10 micron summit filter -6 male both ends to take the c5 ffrs place

Shifter is also installed, I ended up ordering the older style shifter cable bracket for the trans, the one supplied is for the transmissions with the short shift shaft and geometry most likely wouldn’t line up without resistance
 

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3.90 with a 26” tire will suck. 3.73 at a minimum. 3.55/3.42 would work fine.

3.73 with a 28” tire turns 2700 rpm’s at 65-70.’
 

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