Where do you live. I am in Ontario Canada and if you are near me I could use all that air pump stuff.
As long as the Cutlass came with a Chevy engine, then it should fit. Otherwise, if it was an Olds 307, the Olds brackets are different. Pump may be the same, but brackets are different. Just tossin' that out there.Where do you live. I am in Ontario Canada and if you are near me I could use all that air pump stuff.
BC. Not close.Where do you live. I am in Ontario Canada and if you are near me I could use all that air pump stuff.
No emissions tests and totally legal to remove on an '88. And even better is I didn't remove it, I bought it like that.As long as you don't have an emissions test. Because that O2 converter is going to only do 1/2 its job. Air is injected to the 2nd half of the dual bed converter for the oxidizing part of the catalytic converter operation. The system injects air to the exhaust manifolds during engine warmup and when the engine is in open loop. It will also divert to the air cleaner when rich conditions, high vacuum during deceleration, high rpms, and when you throw an ECM code. Obviously, you don't want fresh oxygen in front of the O2 sensor, that's why it is where it is.
There's also your switching valve that during normal operation in closed loop, sends air to the cat. It also can swap to send that air to the exhaust manifolds during cold engine startup and any time you're not in open loop for whatever reason. If the valve leaks by during closed loop to start bleeding air into the exhaust manifolds when it shouldn't, the O2 sensor will react to the extra oxygen, see that as a lean signal, and richen up the fuel mixture when it doesn't really need to. This can result in higher operating temperatures for the cat, which isn't good.
The AIR system is designed to balance itself as it operates and everything in the system must be in tip top condition to work properly. The air pumps themselves are sealed and no lubrication or maintenance required. So when they give up the ghost, you have to replace it. Same with the plastic switching and diverter valves. There are check valves that often burn out and allow exhaust gases to get back into the AIR system. This isn't good either. If your AIR hose connected to the top of the check valve is hot to the touch where it hurts, or you see melted rubber, then change the check valve. Sometimes you'll hear them ticking and sound and can zero in on it. They don't last forever.
Generally speaking, I've seen too many people that don't understand the CCC system, thus they can't fix it when it messes up. 99% of the time, it's a bad sensor, shorted or broken wire. But they rip it out anyway, then wonder why their car doesn't run worth a crap.
Hey no problem I would never give you a lecture for throwing it out. I just try to buy up parts that will fit my car. I am not in the need for one right away, but just like to buy up the parts when they are out there for sale.BC. Not close.
It also was damaged in removal. Some of the parts were mangled off. I didn't really look at it though because I assumed nobody would want it, nor would I get some sort of strange lecture for throwing it out.
There's a bunch of pumps on eBay. Not sure about complete systems.
Why do you need it? Has Ontario embraced authoritarianism and demands outdated and useless emissions equipment on old vehicles? Or are you doing a restoration?
Edit, my car has the Olds 307, so the rest of it doesn't fit anyway.
I live in in Massachusetts and nothing has changed when comes to emissions or coming down hard on it. If your vehicle is 15 years or older they don't check for emissions just safety.Massachusetts,NY,of course California( oh God for bid!) are coming down hard on it. If NH does I’m going to a car year they can pick on and put the body on the frame I have.
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