BUICK 1964 Skylark Coupe Project
- Thread starter joesregalproject
- Start date
They don't look too terrible. Maybe some of that por15 patch would be able to take care of them.
I know, I know, I know, I know, I know...
The rear deck filler panel is fully welded in and the welds are ground down. I'm planning on just fiberglassing the holes in the window frame. I did some blasting, but my compressor is still the limiting factor.
I sold the Lacrosse a couple weeks ago, used some of the money to pay off a credit card and now I'm just gathering the courage to walk into Tractor Supply and dump the rest of it on this bad boy...
Maybe this coming week. I was contemplating going with a used one, but my patience is wearing thin and I cannot deal with Facebook Marketplace people right now. Especially when this comes with a warranty and TSC will deliver it. I'm gonna have to play elektrishun to rearrange the breaker panel and make room for a double 30-amp breaker, but I'll figure it out.
Double induction starters on that motor? That pump an in-line two jug? If so, thinking you are in the 220V department in your breaker box.
A thought on the install, for mine, when it came for the electrician to finish the hook up from the wall box to the circuit box, I had him add a heavy duty, off/on switch to the circuit at the tank. That gives me a fast reaction shut down option in the event something stupid happens and and I can't get to the main board to throw the breaker. it also means that I can leave the breaker on and still shut the compressor down for exercises like draining the tank and servicing the water trap. I also put a master shut off valve in the air feed line between the tank and the gauge board. If a pressure gauge decides to commit suicide, then all I have to do is trip the off switch and shut the valve and that saves the air in the tank but lets me go after the damaged part in safety. Oh yeah, the main delivery line to the valve is both rigid and flexible; the install kit had a woven flex delivery line included as part of the parts list, so I came out of the tank with an appropriate sized pipe nipple, screwed the valve to that and then the flex line to the valve. Having the flex line accounts for vibration during operation. The kit also had heavy rubber insulators to put under the feet; I used FE concrete bolts and left some slack in the nut as per the instructions. Seems to work.
If I can ever find the picture file, I will upload a couple of the pictures of the compressor installation details.
Nick
A thought on the install, for mine, when it came for the electrician to finish the hook up from the wall box to the circuit box, I had him add a heavy duty, off/on switch to the circuit at the tank. That gives me a fast reaction shut down option in the event something stupid happens and and I can't get to the main board to throw the breaker. it also means that I can leave the breaker on and still shut the compressor down for exercises like draining the tank and servicing the water trap. I also put a master shut off valve in the air feed line between the tank and the gauge board. If a pressure gauge decides to commit suicide, then all I have to do is trip the off switch and shut the valve and that saves the air in the tank but lets me go after the damaged part in safety. Oh yeah, the main delivery line to the valve is both rigid and flexible; the install kit had a woven flex delivery line included as part of the parts list, so I came out of the tank with an appropriate sized pipe nipple, screwed the valve to that and then the flex line to the valve. Having the flex line accounts for vibration during operation. The kit also had heavy rubber insulators to put under the feet; I used FE concrete bolts and left some slack in the nut as per the instructions. Seems to work.
If I can ever find the picture file, I will upload a couple of the pictures of the compressor installation details.
Nick
That's fancier than we went with. The SS5L5 will get it done, Joe, but if you have the coin for the two stage, go with it.
Looks similar in spec/size to my old Campbell Hausfeld at the compound. It was great for everything but extended use with my sandblasted. If I exercised just a little patience, it was fine.
Our IR (SS5L5 - 60 gal) is something like 14 SCFM @ 90 and is rated for 100% duty cycle if you run their synthetic oil in the pump. I can tell you we ran it hard with the blast cabinet and die grinder. There was never an issue with the compressor being able to provide air or getting too hot, but being single stage, it would start pumping water on humid days when we ran it hard like that.
Right now this one is actually cheaper than the SS5L5. And in stock at the local store.
If this one doesn't do everything I need it to do, I'm getting a new hobby.
They advertise this one as 15.7ish at 90 and 15.6 at max pressure and it makes 175 max psi. It's also rated for 100% duty cycle which is huge selling point. I'm planning on running a good 15 or 20 feet of hard line between the compressor tank and the water separator/regulator, so hopefully that will be enough pipe for any moisture to condense.
Here's my garage layout and kind of what I have planned. The Skylark stays in the left bay.
New compressor is gonna go in the far right corner. It'll be out of the way and easy to run wire through the wall to the breaker panel from there. I'll use hard line to plumb over to the existing water separator/regulator. Obviously the shelves are gonna get shortened and I'm gonna have to clear away the pile of crap sitting in the corner.
