1970 Olds Cutlass S Rat Rod Style

[olds307 and 403]

I remembered the last two new trans seals, the TV and dipstick tube.

Oh yeah, after many hours, I remembered why full length headers suck! Good thing they are worth 30 HP/TQ over manifolds and dual exhaust. No way the taller Baldwin B9 would fit. Even the Napa 1258 just touched the pipe, the K+N was even worse. I used an exhaust clamp on the pipe, a tiny bit of space now. Now the starter, no way the Powermaster mini starter will fit, connections hit the pipe opposite is no good also. The no name fit but didn't have infinite adjustment, had multiple holes and needed to be half way in between. The solution was the infinite adjustment block off the Powermaster on the no name starter. I used double exhaust clamps to pull the two pipes together and moved the starter wire tube and attached to the back of the head. It is close on the main power connection, hopefully it will be fine.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Filled the converter, seated right in. Once the transmission was on the dowels and partially tightened down , I spun the converter to make sure it was properly seated, it was. It pushed some fluid out the the cooler fittings, a good sign Trans in place with all the CK Performance upgrades. Easiest install have done, much better than the starter and oil filter yesterday. I love those easy to bend nickel copper lines for nearly everything, including trans cooler lines.

 

[olds307 and 403]

So I went to install the shift linkage, I couldn't get past neutral no matter what. I pulled the pan and apparently I installed the shift plunger in the wrong position, only two ways it can go in, it was the other way. Rather than dropping the valve body in car, I carefully bent the pawil so I could sneak out the S link. Put it in the proper position, bent back and made sure it shifted through the gears, installed the pan. Then tightened the motor mounts, installed the torque converter bolts with one washer between the converter and flex plate. Installed the TCI vacuum lockup switch back in place. Drive shaft installed as well. Then started on the exhaust. I thought I was going to be way short. After taking all the pipes installed just enraged enough, I had two stainless adapters, exactly what I needed. I installed the O2 in the new cat on the drivers side. It fit like a glove, the headers are the lowest but not too bad. All Stainless from the headers up to the tail pipes, may eventually replace them with Stainless Flowmaster. Speaking of that brand, these mufflers are straight through.

 

[DRIVEN]

Keep chuggin'. I really wanna see this thing hit the streets when the snow melts.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Intake is on, of course the drivers side gasket moved, PIA. Used Permatex Aviation sealant around the intake and crossover on both sides of thr gasket. I had the Black Right Stuff 1 minute gasket, no way I would an intake on quick enough for it. So I tried Optimum Red around the water ports and end rails. It has superior oil rresistant and 750 degree temperature resistance. Ok around the water ports, stacking talk, thin beads on the end rails, not so good. I put on the intake torqued then put a bit of the Right Stuff 1 minute Red in the caulking gun on the end rails, to make sure it seals.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Front serpentine brackets and belt in place. Fuel lines, new Wix 3/8" inline fuel filter. Cruise servo and TV cable installed. All hoses except the rad hoses tightened. I also mostly filled the transmission with fluid that was in it for only a couple of miles. A combination of Trans Hydraulic fluid and ATF, conventional and synthetic. I had one quart of Lucas Hot Rod high ZDDP 10W30. I threw it in with the STP left from coating the cam and lifters. I also had 4L of SM 10W40 that went in. I plan on priming the oil system with my Dewalt corded drill tomorrow.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Ok, so I primed the oil system with my drill. I spun it till the 1/4 to drill adapter got hot. No oil to the top end. Let it cool, double checked shaft engagement, was good, did it a bunch more, could hear oil moving, till finally started coming out of a couple of pushrods. I did it more till coming out of many pushrods. Put everything back together including the Oldsmobile script valve covers. Filled the bowl and some in the carb, no start. I move the distributor, saw the pick up wasn't plugged in right. This HEI has the last red and white lead available for sale, Accel Brute Thunder in cap coil came with a low ohm center contact. I used a Proform module and added a mechanical limiter, medium springs and set the adjustable vacuum advance to around 10 degrees. I pull plugs, dry. I crank the distributor to the firewall, tries to start. Give it some gas while cranking, chugs to life. I set the base around 20 degrees, around 10 to 12 vacuum advance. Without the fans, got it up to 180 degrees, opened the thermostat, had 20 psi of oil pressure. It justs as soon as I hit the gas. Moved it foward and back a few times and topped up the trans a few more times, along with the coolant, Prestone 10 year, in a 55/45 mix. No ticks or bad sounds, only issue was someone put bolts but didn't tightened down the driver's side valve cover and released smoke. I thought the dipstick pushed out. I reused the Rocket Racing rubber with metal core valve cover gaskets. The exhaust sounds awesome, noticeable and mean but not super loud.

 

[olds307 and 403]

So, I noticed the brake pedal felt soft, it felt good when we pushed it in. Front reservoir was low, no obvious wet spots but assumed the one spot was from the untightened valve cover. New wheel cylinders on all 4 corners, new master cylinder and new Nickel Cooper lines from the rear hose and maybe one front hose. I will have to investigate, maybe a hose or a line not completely tightened.

 

[olds307 and 403]

It looks like, according to Joe P, it is somewhere in the front brakes, front to front, back to back. The Chassis Service manual wasn't clear. I did move around the proportioning valve and the one front line but that was a while back for the line. I moved the valve a bit more for header clearance. It is supposed to warm up more this weekend, so I will check it out.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I found the issue. Moving around the the 50 year old brake line to clear the headers broke the small line from the proportioning valve to the drivers front drum, right near the connection. New 12" 3/16" line with a 3/8"-24 to 1/2-20 adapter and good to go.