1970 Olds Cutlass S Rat Rod Style

[olds307 and 403]

I cut and ground the crossover plugs in the heads. I got the intake on with the Mr Gasket Ultraseal intake gaskets. I used Aviation sealant on the head side and The Right Stuff around both sides of the water ports and a narrow 3 bead tall bead on the end rails. The 12 point 3/8" reduced head and hardened washers fit great!, love the free price. It barely fit, the intake is definitely at the top of the ports.

 

[olds307 and 403]

The 2004R, dipstick, exhaust, linkage driveshaft and lock up wiring are in place. I ordered a new braided universal chrome cable for the 2004R, factory one seperated from the base. I may need a more adjustable cable for the Holley throttle body anyways. Of course a struggle, I had to remove the round protrusion from the torque converter snout in the picture, it was hitting the the pilot bushing and mildly touching the inside of the crank as well. I am using 3 washers between the converter and flex plate, could probably fit 4, so there should be clearance at the pump and pilot area.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I got everything together underneath except the new TV cable, should be here by next weekend. I figured out the pan mounted dipstick will not work. The header tube is right by the outlet. They should have moved it an inch or two foward. I have new Spectre chrome dipstick. They fit tight, most don't. I bent the new line from fuel pump to carb. I sure do like the Nickle Copper lines. So bendable, I only had to use my tubing bender at the fuel pump. I also have these lines at trans, super easy to go from TH350 to 2004R. Got the Qjet on, finally got the choke working like it should. The carb body is damaged, had to space it out slightly or it binds. Then the choke pull off hit the linkage blocking it from fully closing. I bent it slightly, now fully shuts and releases like it should. I got the temp sensor and a couple of other things buttoned up top.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Got the last two bell housing bolts in. Also longer heater hose to the nipple moved up front. Also needed a longer PCV hose. I installed the oil fill tube. I tweaked the fuel line more, put the crank pulley on and got the accessories basically in place. I had extra supports for the serpentine belt setup but they won't connect to the RPM with fuel rails. There is a stud on the PS reservoir and one long bolt by the A/C delete pulley. So a turnbuckle to the PS reservoir to the alternator bolt. Also a turnbuckle from the bolt near the A/C delete pulley to the far corner serpentine adapter near the head. Basically finish the accessories, add the rad, coolant, ATF, cooling fans, battery, distributor, oil dipstick, TV cable and prime the oil system. Then fire up and break in the cam.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Accessories and belt put on. The rad is on the mounts and mostly filled with 50/50 coolant, put too much on the floor as usual. Basically fans, dipstick, battery, TV cable, ATF, oil prime, distributor wires and fire up.

 

[olds307 and 403]

The TV cable is in, harder than it should be but it is done. I threw in a good amount, probably a gallon plus, it has the deep aluminum trans pan and a 4L60E filter. I got the oil dipstick in, an lightly ground the the raised part to seat it in the block. I needed my 10 pound sledge to seat it with light but solid taps. It is half way between the bottom of the dipstick and the add mark. I saw seepage at the RobMc aluminum water neck O ring. I put a good bead of Optimum Grey in the groove. I will have see if they sell replacement ones. I will let that RTV cure for a day and refill the coolant. I basically need to make sure oil level is good, connect the fans, they are in place, prime, drop in distributor, plug wires and connect the battery.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Fans all hooked up and zip tied to the support . Of course I found another leak, a very slight drip out of one of the water pump bolts. It was pretty tight, went a bit more. If it continues leaking, I will pull it and coat with Aviation sealant and maybe add another washer. Greased the front end and routed and zip tied wires. I made my 3/8" drill smoke pretty good, let it cool, did it again. Then I made smoke in reverse from it as well. It should be primed, better be. I dropped in the distributor, had to unhook the EFI rail crossover hose to clear the vacuum advance. So set #1 where I want it on the cap, put on plug wires, put in the battery and maybe pick up a jerry can of 91 non ethanol to have enough fuel for the 20 minute break in. My plan is to get it running, get the timing in the ball park and shut it down. Then check coolant and trans fluid, fire up again and take it 2000 rpm for 20 minutes.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well it runs, 20 minute, 2000 rpm break in done. I had to shut it down a couple of times. It ate a serpentine belt, removed a spacer to fix and got a bit hot, around 230, second fan wasn't on. My Davies Craig fan controller apparently died. I had to put both fans straight to the battery. The good, it had nearly 75 psi oil pressure at 2000 rpm with the 30 wt Lucas high ZDDP break in oil. It has 40 psi at 1000 rpm hot. The bad, it has a bit of a tick, not steady, sorta comes and goes. The 2004R still doesn't shift, it may be a fluid level. I kind of think it is the CK pump. I actually removed the CK shift kit and put in a stock valve body, check balls, seperator plate and accumulators. It is still on stands, the TH350 may be going in.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Looks like there is a 3 year warranty on the fan controller, should cost me nothing to replace it. Of course Summit now only have records 18 months back. I will be around 2+ years, sent an email. I topped up the trans, still no shift. The TH350 shifted soft but shifted. I since added the pump and tail shaft seals along with the Transgo big TH350 shift kit. The converter I have for it is the smaller 10" converter nearly all new ones are made from. It is a bolt and nut design, B&M 400002 2000 to 2200 stall econo converter, good to 350 HP. The pads clear the weight on my spare 330 flex plate. I replaced one of the wheels on my trans cart, a 4 wheel mover, it should help moving it under the car. I trimmed the ears on this TH350, it was an absolute b*tch to get past the headers and exhaust. It is under the car, time to pull the 2004R. There is a definite tick, I will be checking the rocker arms, see if any have play.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I bought 6 NOS rocker arms and bridges for drivers side, 3, 5 and 7 have minor play. The passenger side was perfect for valve lash. The drivers side must be the head that was only milled once. I believe almost all the rocker arms were replaced but it may be more miles than I think. I will see once they come in, if adjustment to the bridges is needed. I got the TH350 in place, the circumference on that snout needed ground down or it would not spin. The depth was fine, no contact with the pilot Only maybe washer worth of space between the flexplate and torque converter. Cooler lines and TV cable on. I need to remove the chrome pan and take the dent out. This POS better last till I go 4L80E.