1970 Olds Cutlass S Rat Rod Style

[olds307 and 403]

Measured definitely need 2 less inches with the yoke 3/4" out. Ordered it, should be 4.5" less than the factory 2 piece drive shaft and much stronger. I installed the TCI Fastgate, wide step drill to open up the hole for the cable. I lubed the cables and mechanism with dry graphite spray lube. I still need to hook the neutral safety and park switches, need to find where I hid the Bible, my 1970 Chassis service manual for the wiring diagram.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I ordered another drive shaft for an Astro Van from the same years, just over an inch shorter. Which ever one fits better will go on, other will be returned. Hoping it is the Astro Van drive shaft, $75 cheaper. I got the top two bolts in the bellhousing adapter. The transmission dipstick is OK but I have a lot of wiring near it.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Modified the ECM box to plug in the trans harness. I also installed clamps to hold the trans relay and trans cooler lines against the inner plastic fender. I used the same screw to hold fuse holder for the trans wiring. Just need to hook up the key on power for the trans harness. The first driveshaft came, the Blazer replacement, should be the longer of the two. The actual shaft is just under 1.5" shorter. I will get the car back on the stands and put in the diff yoke to see if it is going to work before swapping the trans yoke.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well, the driveshaft is very close but I think the shorter driveshaft will be better. The rear U joint has the right inside snap rings and fits the pinion yoke. I went to potentionally swap the front U joint. It is not a 3R. The rear looks like a conversion joint as well. It is smaller diameter and all outside snap rings. I found online it may be a 1330 U joint so I have a 1310 to 1350 and a 1330 to 1350 conversion U joint coming from Amazon. I don't mind have these on the shelf. The rest of the car should be good to go.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Other driveshaft arrived, about 1 3/4" shorter, perfect. It does not have a 3R conversion U joint or 1330 U joints. It has 1350 U joints both ends, according to my measurements. I thought, can I make it work? Yes, with no extra parts!. My front 32 yoke that came with the trans pis 1350, should be a straight swap. I have currently have a 3R to 1350 conversion U joint, half taken off my G body driveshaft, brand new. Let's see if it works tonight.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I got the yoke changed. Good news, they are 1350 U joints. The bad, holy crap where they in there. Not a chance my usual hammer and a vise method will work. Even removing the snap rings were a chore. I had to hammer one side to relieve tension. I used snap ring pliers, while I had a hold of it, finally had to jam a small flat screw driver to peel a couple out. I used a 5" C clamp to remove the one cup. I actually used a cut off wheel to get the other cup out, all the way out on the inside, couldn't separate it. I wasn't going to use that yoke on anything, so no loss. I used the regular outside snap rings that needle nose vise grips compress. I got the snap rings out on the other U joint and the one cup to move, started to bend the handle on my C clamp. Since I didn't want to spend $165 plus tax locally, I ordered a U/ Ball joint press from Amazon, for $58, should be here Monday. So close but yet another road block, shocking, I know, nope!

 

[Sweet_Johnny]

It might be because I need to eat, but I'm a bit confused here. If you had a shaft made why are things being cut apart? I also lost track of what joints you started with but if the new shaft has the tougher 1350 I still have the same question.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Not a custom shaft, a $200 Amazon replacement, the rear of the two piece for a 96 to 05 Astro Van. I picked up a S10 Blazer driveshaft, it was super tight and have bottomed out. It would be a perfect 8.5" G body replacement driveshaft. It is 3.5" diameter and 1.5" short than the 7.5" driveshaft, 27 spline yoke and 3R conversion U joint in the rear.

 

[Sweet_Johnny]

Not a custom shaft, a $200 Amazon replacement, the rear of the two piece for a 96 to 05 Astro Van. I picked up a S10 Blazer driveshaft, it was super tight and have bottomed out. It would be a perfect 8.5" G body replacement driveshaft. It is 3.5" diameter and 1.5" short than the 7.5" driveshaft, 27 spline yoke and 3R conversion U joint in the rear.

Ahh, thank you for straightening me out.

 

[olds307 and 403]

U/Ball joint press arrived. Man I still needed mild heat and the big swing bar to get the U joint out and the 1350/3R conversion U joint in. Both are a bit tight, see if I get any vibrations. Touched up the paint where I scratched it up, will install in the morning.