1980 Pontiac LeMans Station Wagon - G-T-faux (stuck with it, and can't shake it... like a bad case of herpes)

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the MTO appraisal is a jerk around. Because there is no visual inspection to match what you tell the MTO there is a dis-connect to be abused.
All it seems to take is a used car lot and $ 50.00 around here to get a near scrap value appraisal of an older car. I have seen details these guys put on the report to de-value a car ( worn paint, mis-matched panels, torn interior ) to bring a car down to a sub $1500 value. This is the same car that would get a $15000 Insurance valuation for loss when being insured ( likely even before the MTO appraisal ). Either set a standard fee for anything older than 25 years or make it so MTO does the visual inspection

Ontario is a silly place with backwards policies which magically appear from day to day aimed at generating revenue through fees or taxes. I am fine with paying my taxes on a car at the time of registration - I am in a unique position where I want to ensure that I am paying taxes on the car I bought for $2700 US, not the car I built for seemingly 10 times that amount. The problem with a lump sum fee it works against the concept of paying taxes on the assessed value - meaning a guy with a 30 year old creampuff granny mobile G-body shouldn't be paying Grand National taxes, and vice versa. Fair is fair - and unfortunately we live in a province that is $300 billion in debt (but, hey a balanced budget is coming) which relies on taxing your luxuries.
 
So whats your plan ? They cant evaluate a car that no longer exists as you have now re-built it.
As far as the lump sum fee I figure that a car that is 25 years old has had taxes paid on it every time it changes hands. Likely the average would be 5x our dear Gov't has collected taxes on its sale by the time its 25. After that point I feel that a "flat" fee should be put in place. Otherwise there are just too many workarounds. Otherwise you should have to pay sales tax on the Insured value of the car.
 
So whats your plan ? They cant evaluate a car that no longer exists as you have now re-built it.
As far as the lump sum fee I figure that a car that is 25 years old has had taxes paid on it every time it changes hands. Likely the average would be 5x our dear Gov't has collected taxes on its sale by the time its 25. After that point I feel that a "flat" fee should be put in place. Otherwise there are just too many workarounds. Otherwise you should have to pay sales tax on the Insured value of the car.

I see your point. Except for inflation and appreciation of said commodity - neither of which are constants.

In my case I have the eBay ad, the selling agreement, the importation paperwork, and a tonne of photos documenting the build; plus contacts at a few shops that should be able to support me.
 
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I am a horrible person.

Yesterday I robbed a bunch of rubber parts off of the other cars to continue refreshing the wagon. Many rubber door bumpers were stolen. It is going to be a rainy weekend so I doubt I am going to get to do much tuning - so I will probably just insulate the doors with some more sound deadener.
 
Have you had the safety inspection done yet Mike, or are you still finishing things up?

Still buttoning things up - so much rain here that the town has declared a state of emergency because the Ottawa River is flooded (I am waiting to have HQ task me to start sandbag filling in support - LOL). I live up on a hill - so haha!. This weekend I hope to do the alignment, rebleed the brakes, fab up a functioning column to trans linkage (need that NSS, back up lights, and such for safety), move a few things about, and do some more tuning.

Plus, I have to start prepping my application for insurance (using Hagerty) and that is a process in its own right. Cannot get a trip permit until then.
 
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Alright here is the solution for the key lock-out (aka NSS)/reverse light issue with using the stock column range rod and the Hooker swap headers.

1. The bracket which mounts on the brake distribution block needs to have the ball socket moved up 1/2". I cut it along the bend and rewelded it - make sure you measure the angle first before cutting;

2. The bracket on the transmission selector switch need to be cut and moved up 1/2". Note you will need a nut that does not have an integrated washer due to the reduced threads to draw down against (and yes, you could weld the brackets together too);

3. The cross shaft which translates the movement from the shifter/transmission selector switch to the column lock-out needs to be straightened and shaped to go over the header. Guess how much clearance you need to add? That's right - 1/2"! I used a vice and a BFH to give it that sweet custom reverse banana bend;

4. The pinch nut which goes to the column rod needs to flipped to the other side of the bracket on the cross shaft. I rounded the edges off of it to reduce the risk of it binding on things; and

5. Lastly, you may find that you want to chop an inch or two off of the cross shaft that inserts into the ball socket. I took close to 2" off and ran a shorter spring. This really aided in assembly with the header in the way. You may also find that you want to chop an inch off of the bottom of the column rod - your results may vary. Measure once, cut once, weld once, measure again, and cut again.

I am running and B&M shifter and a 4L60E which may be wider at the case body location for the transmission selector switch than other GM transmissions.
 
Aligned the car today. Boy is the stock stuff limited in its adjustability range. Best I could get was 3.5* caster, -1.25* camber, and 0 toe. Garbage!

Bled the brakes again... so many bubbles.

Oh, and I would say that the SFCs I built are doing their job stiffening up the car.
 

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We had a short break in the weather!

So I did a little tuning today and it is going surprisingly well, cold start was good, idle in P/N and Drive was good, putting around the 'hood was good. Only a few tweaks to the VE table were in order. Hot restart was a little lean so that is probably an OLFA matter.

The steering and suspension feels really tight - but ARGH! - it is rubbing on the fender liners because it doesn't have enough negative camber. I figure I can fix this with offset shafts shoved in some circle track arms, a stack of shims, and narrower tires (245/45R17 on a 9.5" wheel); or alternatively I can start cutting up my rare LeMans fenderliners (not a fan of that idea).

Appropriately Natasha asked what that was going to cost - I couldn't muster a response and just hung my head in shame.
 
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