1983 Big Block Monte Slow Build (Lowered Expectations)

[scoti]

On the fuel pumps, I used to get the 3 port units from O'Reilly's that match the OEM. The third connection was a return for the internal pressure regulator. Instead these were just pumping fuel back to the tank and not to the carb. Turned all of them back in and only use the simple 2 port units... Fuel in ---> Fuel out. Problem solved.

Also need to know... Many of the countermen today don't know the difference between vacuum line, fuel line or 3/8 radiator overflow line. So you got to watch...

Agreed 101%,

When I had to replace the 'new' lines I just replaced on my TBI equipped dually, it took three stops @ diff places to get the high psi rated (Green stripe/lettering) hose. Each stop I was told they had it in the 'HELP' section. Each stop, I had to tell them it was not there. They'd take me back to the bulk stuff & pull generic hose in the size I requested but I had to keep telling them 'nope' until I found the right stuff. It's also more per foot vs regular hose (but not as expensive as 'submersible' rated hose).

 

[Supercharged111]

Agreed 101%,

When I had to replace the 'new' lines I just replaced on my TBI equipped dually, it took three stops @ diff places to get the high psi rated (Green stripe/lettering) hose. Each stop I was told they had it in the 'HELP' section. Each stop, I had to tell them it was not there. They'd take me back to the bulk stuff & pull generic hose in the size I requested but I had to keep telling them 'nope' until I found the right stuff. It's also more per foot vs regular hose (but not as expensive as 'submersible' rated hose).

Submersible hose is sold by the foot, meaning in 12" sections. So if you want 2 feet you get 2 1 foot chunks. Not very useful if you want 18".

 

[scoti]

Submersible hose is sold by the foot, meaning in 12" sections. So if you want 2 feet you get 2 1 foot chunks. Not very useful if you want 18".

When I replaced my fuel pumps the first round (2014), I learned about the submersible stuff. It was ~$50/ft. I've used ~3" cuts w/ea new pump replacement (which means I'll run out sooner than later). They listed 'bulk' but did not have any in-house inventory. The submersible is not needed for external lines though.... Just the high-psi rated hose. In tank? Def w/today's fuels.

 

[Supercharged111]

When I replaced my fuel pumps the first round (2014), I learned about the submersible stuff. It was ~$50/ft. I've used ~3" cuts w/ea new pump replacement (which means I'll run out sooner than later). They listed 'bulk' but did not have any in-house inventory. The submersible is not needed for external lines though.... Just the high-psi rated hose. In tank? Def w/today's fuels.

Yep, Napa had it listed in bulk by the foot so they ordered it and 2 12" chunks showed up. I eventually found the correct plastic bendy in tank line and used that instead.

 

[Supercharged111]

I picked up the pump and a hard line, now to get my happy *ss back out to the car. Thinking I may need a die to do a double flare if I have to cut this line shorter.

 

[78Delta88]

Yep, Napa had it listed in bulk by the foot so they ordered it and 2 12" chunks showed up. I eventually found the correct plastic bendy in tank line and used that instead.

Wow ~50.00/foot?? And I thought Grainger prices were high??

 

[spidereyes455]

As far as the suction side leaking its very possible it won't. About 20 years ago I was chasing an issue with my 71 lemans. One day it decided to start acting up, it would start idle and free rev perfectly fine. But as soon as I would try and let the clutch out in first from a stop it would die, even if I revved it to 4k and dropped the clutch. I could not figure out what was wrong. There was plenty of gas in it and there were NO leaks anywhere. So as I was laying under the car checking stuff I happened to touch the rubber line coming directly off the tank and only then did it become slightly damp. Here there was a hairline crack along the length of it. Enough to suck air but not enough to leak. Replaced it with new line and viola car was perfectly fine again.

Not long after that my brothers 71 chevelle started doing the same thing. Told him to crawl under it and check the rubber line really well. At first he thought I was full of sh*t and didn't believe me that could be the problem but when I finally convinced him to check it low and behold same thing on his car. New rubber line and magicly it was fixed. FWIW in both cases the rubber line appeared to be factory original.

 

[Supercharged111]

Well I put the 40gph in today and same deal, no go. So I filled the bowl and pulled it outside to jack it up to see if I disrupted anything behind the hard line patch session. Didn't see anything awry down there so refilled the bowl and backed it back in. Off to YouTube I went and come to find out these engines use a pushrod to actuate the fuel pump? Thing was bottomed out so I removed the plug, wiped down the rod, put a blob of grease on the end, and shoved it back in. I thought I'd slipped the arm under the rod, refilled the bowl, fired it off, and after the bowl was empty it died AGAIN. Are you fvck!ng kidding me?! Back in went the original pump and the car still won't run. I'm at a loss. I wasn't troubleshooting a no run condition until I swapped pumps. This is insane. Next I'll try and run the thing off of a gas can to eliminate suction problems, but at one point I'd pulled fuel through the suction line with a hand squeeze bulb dealie so I have my doubts that's causing the pumps to straight up not work at all.

 

[64nailhead]

Is the pushrod moving if you spin the engine over by hand?

 

[Supercharged111]

Is the pushrod moving if you spin the engine over by hand?

Funny you ask, one of the things I plan to do next time out is bring jumpers for the starter solenoid to be able to observe the pushrod through its range of motion. I assume the pushrod rides directly on the cam eccentric? And is said eccentric a part of the cam or bolted to the front like a F**d?