1986 Olds Cutlass Salon Thread

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Minion1186

G-Body Guru
Apr 12, 2009
977
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got some bad news now about the cutlass.I have been enjoying the car, cruising it when i get the time, washing it and such until today, i was driving down the road and i've noticed it has been really rough to shift into second but thought nothing of it and parked it. About half an hour later driving up the road i shifted into second cruising and when i whent to shift it back into first nothing happened, the shifter whent into first but the transmission didnt. I pulled over and investigated what i found to be the column lock linkage worked it way loose from the transmission arm and the shifter cable snapped from what i guess all the stress it took being connected to a 20 year old beat up shifter and being continously heated up by the transmission. This car has been a real pain in the *ss lately, quite frankly im getting sick of fixing the bullshit problems it likes to throw at me, so right now i need to find a 3 speed console shifter and convert the transmission from manual valve body to a stock valve body with a shift kit. I was planning on driving it to school this year before it gets parked in october for winter but this sh*t has to happen the last second i guess.
 

Blake442

Geezer
Apr 24, 2007
6,864
1,997
113
Minneapolis
Good choice. The novelty of a full manual valve body on the street wears off pretty quick...

Tinkering with all the bullshit problems is part of the fun! :banana:

Edit:
Just saw your post looking for a stock shifter.

Don't waste your time, they're garbage. Especially if you want to have some fun and shift through the gears.

Go pick up a B&M Megashifter. They're easy to use and still a decent price.
 

Minion1186

G-Body Guru
Apr 12, 2009
977
3
0
Right now if i want to drive the car i have to twist the column into 1st gear and not to mention it'll look kinda odd twisting my column to shift gears lol. I am getting an oem one for now so i have absolutely NO hookup problems, kinks from the shifter cable or any aftermarket crap getting into the way. I am running the oem setup from now til when the car gets parked again in late october when the insurance is let off for winter storage.

Blake- I am really interested in a B&M megashifter but i need to save my money up so a cheap oem one will do for now, but in the winter i plan on upgrading to a megashifter and i have a couple questions about them.

1st- is it a plain universal megashifter,truck or firebird console type you're running?
2nd- How easy of a setup is it? do i have to weld up mounting brackets or is it bolt on
3rd- I'm guessing it comes with one of those 5ft long cables, how did you route yours since there's so much excess cable?
4th(final)-did you cut your console up to make it fit?
 

Blake442

Geezer
Apr 24, 2007
6,864
1,997
113
Minneapolis
I installed my MegaShifter the first summer I had the car when I was only 17.
It fits nicely, but not perfect. Knowing what I know now, I'd be able to get it right on.

Luckily, the B&M top plate is the same size as the original Olds top plate.
I cut mine up, and mounted the B&M top plate on top of the original one, so it clips into place like stock.

I'm using the "univeral" shifter in mine. The truck and F-body shifters have longer and shorter arms.
Yes, it comes with a 5' cable, and it smoothly wraps around. Even comes with a picture of how to route it.
It bolts in, but you'll have to do some drilling to mount it.
I did a lot of cutting inside the console. Needless to say, the stock shifter isn't going back in... :lol:

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Minion1186

G-Body Guru
Apr 12, 2009
977
3
0
well,more problems as of last week. I havent touched the car since last week because of some small problems. Just until recently, the engine won't idle in park and it never idled in gear either and its backfiring through the carb and mostly popping through the exhaust. It also seems to be that at wot (punching it) it bogs down heavily but at a gradually pressing the pedal down it wont bog and i cant get wot without any bogging. I have seemed to have these problems nailed down to it being mostly all carb related, specifically the carb having a major lean issue. Though it is weird how its acting up now because the first week i started driving the car it wouldnt bog down, it would idle in park and it ran fine. Second problem is the aluminum water pump is leaking, it leaks when the engine gets hot and sits, but doesnt leak but doesnt leak any other time. third problem is the engine is puking oil out of the engine, around the heads where they mate with the block and intake, around the valve cover bolts and on the surface of the block where the oil filler tube is. I checked the oil level cold, it seems to be losing oil also, a lot of it. I also need to change the oil soon as its black as sin. Money has been extremely tight this past week, i havent been to work except the weekends which isnt very good, i have an eye appointment for contacts, car insurance and cell phone bills to pay along with living expenses like gas, cigarettes, food and such so I havent been able to touch the car yet. When I get the extra cash next week i'll be able to buy a carb spacer to help minimize the heat going to the carb (very hard to start hot, fuel in float bowls boil over into venturis) and get a new air filter, lid and a hood scoop for the clearance of the added height.All of these will cost me roughly $130. I believe the guy who built my motor said it ran with an 800cfm holley which is unbelievable to me. I guessing the jets are too lean or the floats arent fully adjusting yet on the carb but than again it just started acting up since about two weeks ago.
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http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4088/4973053038_0f10c1040e_z.jpg[img]
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dogsht

Royal Smart Person
Nov 11, 2008
2,003
9
36
Dayton, OH
Exhaust looks good. Car screams for some fat white letter performance tires. Whats wrong with the factory tach? Do you shift it at over 6,000 rpms? BTW You can get 245/60/14s on those rims.
 
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