1987 Cutlass Build

[olds307 and 403]

Excellent, the pictures of the install on A bodies with the 350 looked pretty close to the ground. I currently have Sanderson shorties but those and the current exhaust can be saved for a 4x4 Olds truck, when I find it. Everyone has spoken highly of these headers. I think, it is time to buy a set. Very cool they fit G bodies.

 

[84dragcutlass]

Excellent, the pictures of the install on A bodies with the 350 looked pretty close to the ground. I currently have Sanderson shorties but those and the current exhaust can be saved for a 4x4 Olds truck, when I find it. Everyone has spoken highly of these headers. I think, it is time to buy a set. Very cool they fit G bodies.

As a small update on the headers. For the driver side I did have to heat and massage the most rear tube that goes back toward the firewall for clearance. Other than that beautiful fit. At full droop they still have clearance around the lower A arms.

 

[69hurstolds]

Those headers look pretty good in there. Nice job.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Those do tuck in really nice. They would sit about level with a deep 2004R pan. I ordered my set. I am painting the flanges with VHT high temp as they are just mild steel. I am going to wax the rest.

 

[84dragcutlass]

Those do tuck in really nice. They would sit about level with a deep 2004R pan. I ordered my set. I am painting the flanges with VHT high temp as they are just mild steel. I am going to wax the rest.

Wax? Never heard such things, how does that work? I didn't think to paint the flanges

 

[olds307 and 403]

Wax? Never heard such things, how does that work? I didn't think to paint the flanges

The flanges I only knew about from the threads on those headers. I may be thinking of ceramic headers, pretty sure Sanderson mentioned waxing them first. Either way, it shouldn't hurt anything.

 

[scoti]

The flanges I only knew about from the threads on those headers. I may be thinking of ceramic headers, pretty sure Sanderson mentioned waxing them first. Either way, it shouldn't hurt anything.

Maybe, maybe-not. Certain substances on coatings or stainless can get cooked into the surface when heat gets introduced. I know when I fired off my dually there was a section that had finger prints get cooked into the tubing on the initial heat cycle. I had to bust out the ScotchBrite & some metal cleaner to remove them. I wipe the pipes down now one last time after I work anywhere near the exhaust JIC.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Maybe, maybe-not. Certain substances on coatings or stainless can get cooked into the surface when heat gets introduced. I know when I fired off my dually there was a section that had finger prints get cooked into the tubing on the initial heat cycle. I had to bust out the ScotchBrite & some metal cleaner to remove them. I wipe the pipes down now one last time after I work anywhere near the exhaust JIC.

You may be right, I was thinking Turtle Wax Ice or Ceramic. Something like this is probably much better and designed for high temps.
AUTOSOL BLUING REMOVER (BOTTLE 125 ML) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004MXN6U2/?tag=rippca-20

 

[84dragcutlass]

Seems like that might actually work, i have never minded the bluing however, just shows you actually use it.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I like the idea of corrision protection that product leaves behind. These headers go more brownish than blue, from the pictures I have seen. Either way it beat spending $1000 more for ARH and maybe a handful more HP and TQ.