1987 El Camino Motor Mounts

[commandercool86]

Yes exactly. Think about it, no matter how different these frame mounts are,they can't be that far off..

Just measured up both brackets. 2 1/2" Picture of the passenger side:

 

[commandercool86]

No I meant the holes for the clamshell. Sorry I should have specified. You might have already done that though

Doing that makes your motor sit higher. Did that result in any clearance issues for you?

 

[timo22]

Wow! Didn't expect to see that. Let me think on it some more..timo22

 

[79 USA 1]

Just have to throw this out there...Do you have the clam shell mounts swapped side to side?
All the small block Chevy mounts I've used have a captured nut on the passenger side clam shell, the fuel pump prohibits running the bolt in from the front. The clam shells should be marked "L" for the drivers side and "R" for the passenger side.
Just my $.02

 

[commandercool86]

Just have to throw this out there...Do you have the clam shell mounts swapped side to side?
All the small block Chevy mounts I've used have a captured nut on the passenger side clam shell, the fuel pump prohibits running the bolt in from the front. The clam shells should be marked "L" for the drivers side and "R" for the passenger side.
Just my $.02

I need to clear this up to avoid confusion because I think started out using the wrong terminology. The bracket is what bolts to the block. The aptly named clamshell encases the rubber and is frame-side which I've been referring to as the mount throughout this thread. Please correct me if I'm wrong, just want to be on the same page.

The mounts I got from the parts store are identical, so you're saying the brackets are left right specific? Where would the marking be? In case I need to unbolt them to see.

 

[TURNA]

Wow I have never seen a captured nut on any clamshell...

 

[pagrunt]

Here's my rusty .02. Those mounts with captive nuts don't work for our cars. You do have the correct mounts for our cars, saw the large "71" from the p/n & they are universal L or R, never had captive nuts. Now here might be the fix to make things work, it'll be a PIA but you'll get the extra movement on the frame side mounts. Just posted this idea in the Space City 1982 GP Build. Loosen the frame mounts but just enough to allow forced movement of them. This way you'll be able to give the mounts some play to work with. Had to do it to mine with the poly inserts. I have a bare frame so I had better access to do it that way. If the transmission is bolted to the block, loosen the mount on that for the extra movement. I never had issues like this with the earler style rubber on block side mounts.

 

[ham1974]

I had this same issue a few months ago. I took my old motor and let the mounts that connect to the block go with it. Put the new motor in and realized no mounts. So I go to a local junk guy and tell him I need the engine side mounts. He says small block Chevy all the same and grabs an old pair he had laying around. Well after going through the same issue I can tell you they are not the same as car and truck mounts which you have won’t work on a gbody. They are close but just An 1/2 in difference.

 

[commandercool86]

Here's my rusty .02. Those mounts with captive nuts don't work for our cars. You do have the correct mounts for our cars, saw the large "71" from the p/n & they are universal L or R, never had captive nuts. Now here might be the fix to make things work, it'll be a PIA but you'll get the extra movement on the frame side mounts. Just posted this idea in the Space City 1982 GP Build. Loosen the frame mounts but just enough to allow forced movement of them. This way you'll be able to give the mounts some play to work with. Had to do it to mine with the poly inserts. I have a bare frame so I had better access to do it that way. If the transmission is bolted to the block, loosen the mount on that for the extra movement. I never had issues like this with the earler style rubber on block side mounts.

Thanks pagrunt. This will be my angle of attack this evening

 

[commandercool86]

Here's my rusty .02. Those mounts with captive nuts don't work for our cars. You do have the correct mounts for our cars, saw the large "71" from the p/n & they are universal L or R, never had captive nuts. Now here might be the fix to make things work, it'll be a PIA but you'll get the extra movement on the frame side mounts. Just posted this idea in the Space City 1982 GP Build. Loosen the frame mounts but just enough to allow forced movement of them. This way you'll be able to give the mounts some play to work with. Had to do it to mine with the poly inserts. I have a bare frame so I had better access to do it that way. If the transmission is bolted to the block, loosen the mount on that for the extra movement. I never had issues like this with the earler style rubber on block side mounts.

Success! With pagrunts advice and a little twist on my end, the block is mounted up!

Methodology:

Bolt the passenger mount loosely to the frame, thru bolt in the bracket and mount.
Driver mount not bolted to frame at all, thru bolt in the bracket and mount.
Drop some weight on the mounts to touch the frame but still have some give. I hooked the chain on the hoist to favor the passenger side a tad more.
Drop a little more weight
See that the driver side mount holes are nowhere close to lining up
Hammer the crap out of the driver side mount until the holes look somewhat close
Lift the motor a tad
Hammer
Drop the motor a tad
Hammer
Make sure the transmission tail is center
Hammer
Hammer again
Hammer again from a different angle
Check holes for alignment
Voila
Bolt up

Thank you all for your input, advice, information, tips etc. This forum is awesome. I'm stoked to bring this 383 beast to life!