Like death and taxes, there will always be video. I'll try to take more pics as well (I've been a bit lacking with that). Maybe my new hook is slipping the "bow-chicka-wow-wow" into every vid 🤣 who knows?
Hutch
BUILD THREAD 1987 Olds 442 Project Build
- Thread starter oldsofb
- Start date
Like death and taxes, there will always be video. I'll try to take more pics as well (I've been a bit lacking with that). Maybe my new hook is slipping the "bow-chicka-wow-wow" into every vid 🤣 who knows?
Hutch
What has my thread degenerated into?? 🤔😵
It's my own fault.
How about that Redskins game? Too bad we have to play both halves. We're usually pretty good at one of them, but both???
Hutch
It's my own fault.
How about that Redskins game? Too bad we have to play both halves. We're usually pretty good at one of them, but both???
Hutch
So I finally got around to fixing the Tilt on my Steering column. I posted a detailed "How to" over at the How to / Knowledge Base section. Here's what I did:
I removed the Steering Wheel and got down to business.
I referred to my shop manual and my crusty memory to get this done. It's been a few years since I did one
I attached the Steering Wheel Lock Plate Remover and tightened until I fully expose the snap ring on the shaft. I used a pair of small flat blades (or seal picks) to wrestle it off.
I remove the Upper Bearing Spring, and with a small Phillips remove the Hazard Flasher Button.
With a Phillips screwdriver, I remove the Turn Signal Stalk Lever and the (3) screws that hold the Turn Signal Switch Assembly on. You have to click the assembly to “Right Turn” to gain access to the one screw.
I recommend replacing the Turn Signal Return Springs. These springs break over time, and at $3 it’s great insurance. I do this to every column I crack open.
Continued...
I removed the Steering Wheel and got down to business.
I referred to my shop manual and my crusty memory to get this done. It's been a few years since I did one
I attached the Steering Wheel Lock Plate Remover and tightened until I fully expose the snap ring on the shaft. I used a pair of small flat blades (or seal picks) to wrestle it off.
I remove the Upper Bearing Spring, and with a small Phillips remove the Hazard Flasher Button.
With a Phillips screwdriver, I remove the Turn Signal Stalk Lever and the (3) screws that hold the Turn Signal Switch Assembly on. You have to click the assembly to “Right Turn” to gain access to the one screw.
I recommend replacing the Turn Signal Return Springs. These springs break over time, and at $3 it’s great insurance. I do this to every column I crack open.
Continued...
Part 2 of the Loose Tilt Column:
Remove the Steering Column Bracket below the dash (since more than likely most will have the column in the car). I remove the Turn Signal Switch Assembly wiring harness from the lower column. This will allow the Switch to pull out enough to help in later steps. Do the same with the Cruise Control Wire.
I pull the Turn Signal Switch Assembly out and let it hang down. I pull the Buzzer Switch Assembly out. (There’s a spring clip that will stay stuck in there. I’ll get that in a minute)
I use a T20 Torx to remove the Ignition Cylinder holding pin, and I remove the Ignition Cylinder. With that removed I can get that Buzzer Switch Assembly retaining clip out (I'm careful not to yank it out. You can bend or break that little guy) It fits on the Switch as pictured.
I remove the Upper Bearing Inner Race Seat and the (3) silver T30 Torx screws along with the Tilt Lever. I pull the Lock Housing Cover out and let it hang with the Signal Switch. I remove the Column Housing Cover End Cap as well.
Continued...
Remove the Steering Column Bracket below the dash (since more than likely most will have the column in the car). I remove the Turn Signal Switch Assembly wiring harness from the lower column. This will allow the Switch to pull out enough to help in later steps. Do the same with the Cruise Control Wire.
I pull the Turn Signal Switch Assembly out and let it hang down. I pull the Buzzer Switch Assembly out. (There’s a spring clip that will stay stuck in there. I’ll get that in a minute)
I use a T20 Torx to remove the Ignition Cylinder holding pin, and I remove the Ignition Cylinder. With that removed I can get that Buzzer Switch Assembly retaining clip out (I'm careful not to yank it out. You can bend or break that little guy) It fits on the Switch as pictured.
I remove the Upper Bearing Inner Race Seat and the (3) silver T30 Torx screws along with the Tilt Lever. I pull the Lock Housing Cover out and let it hang with the Signal Switch. I remove the Column Housing Cover End Cap as well.
Continued...
Part 3 of the Loose Tilt Column:
I use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the Wheel Tilt Spring by compressing the cap and turning counter clockwise. It comes out as one piece.
I pull the upper Bearing Inner Race before pulling the Steering Column Housing as this little guy will fly off later and skip or roll to parts unknown.
I used the Lisle 19940 Steering Wheel Pivot Pin Remover tool. It has excellent reviews. Not so much for this other guy (black and white photo) The interwebs have reported that the small threaded end has been known to break off and cause cursing and tears.
The screw part of the tool threads in to the Pivot Pin (the head is a 9/64 Allen) The cup goes on the outside of the pin. I use a 1/2 inch wrench to tighten down and pull the pin out.
I put the Tilt Lever back in and move it a few times to release the top of the housing. With this done, I pull it out slightly and rotate clockwise to get the High Beam Rod pushed through the opening in the housing. I let the housing hang down (Now is the perfect time to add some grease to those bearings if they’ve gone a bit dry)
Finally!! Here are the offending bolts. There are (4) E8 Reverse Torx Bolts that hold the tilt together. One was so loose I just pulled it out. It was just sitting there! I tighten all (4) bolts, then loosen one at a time to remove, clean, add Red Loctite, and tighten down.
Continued...
I use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the Wheel Tilt Spring by compressing the cap and turning counter clockwise. It comes out as one piece.
I pull the upper Bearing Inner Race before pulling the Steering Column Housing as this little guy will fly off later and skip or roll to parts unknown.
I used the Lisle 19940 Steering Wheel Pivot Pin Remover tool. It has excellent reviews. Not so much for this other guy (black and white photo) The interwebs have reported that the small threaded end has been known to break off and cause cursing and tears.
The screw part of the tool threads in to the Pivot Pin (the head is a 9/64 Allen) The cup goes on the outside of the pin. I use a 1/2 inch wrench to tighten down and pull the pin out.
I put the Tilt Lever back in and move it a few times to release the top of the housing. With this done, I pull it out slightly and rotate clockwise to get the High Beam Rod pushed through the opening in the housing. I let the housing hang down (Now is the perfect time to add some grease to those bearings if they’ve gone a bit dry)
Finally!! Here are the offending bolts. There are (4) E8 Reverse Torx Bolts that hold the tilt together. One was so loose I just pulled it out. It was just sitting there! I tighten all (4) bolts, then loosen one at a time to remove, clean, add Red Loctite, and tighten down.
Continued...
Part 4 of the Loose Tilt Column:
A Few Things To Watch For When Reassembling:
This Ignition Switch Actuator Rack (attached to the Steering Column Housing)
Must go over this pin that is part of the Switch Actuator Assembly
That controls this rod down to the Ignition Switch on the column
The Actuator Rack and this Sector gear must line up like this. Before putting the pins in, I stick the Ignition Cylinder in the slot where it would go and check the function of this.
The Column Housing Cover End Cap has a Dimmer Switch Rod Actuator that sits in it like this:
It has to engage the Dimmer Rod like so:
With the End Cap in place I hold the End Cap with my Left hand and use my Right thumb to push the Actuator and click the Dimmer Switch. If that’s OK then I install the Lock Housing Cover.
I install the Buzzer Switch Assembly and Retaining Clip as one unit. I turn the Ignition Cylinder to run and use a small screwdriver or seal pick to push the Green tab up (it should stay up for you) to be able to install them.
I'm saving the Steering Wheel install for later since the same wheel isn't going back on.
Hutch
A Few Things To Watch For When Reassembling:
This Ignition Switch Actuator Rack (attached to the Steering Column Housing)
Must go over this pin that is part of the Switch Actuator Assembly
That controls this rod down to the Ignition Switch on the column
The Actuator Rack and this Sector gear must line up like this. Before putting the pins in, I stick the Ignition Cylinder in the slot where it would go and check the function of this.
The Column Housing Cover End Cap has a Dimmer Switch Rod Actuator that sits in it like this:
It has to engage the Dimmer Rod like so:
With the End Cap in place I hold the End Cap with my Left hand and use my Right thumb to push the Actuator and click the Dimmer Switch. If that’s OK then I install the Lock Housing Cover.
I install the Buzzer Switch Assembly and Retaining Clip as one unit. I turn the Ignition Cylinder to run and use a small screwdriver or seal pick to push the Green tab up (it should stay up for you) to be able to install them.
I'm saving the Steering Wheel install for later since the same wheel isn't going back on.
Hutch
The new (old) wheel will be connected to this guy 😀
Hutch
Hutch
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