Mich,
Mine fits pretty much the same way....close gap between the rear edge of the cowl scoop and the windshield. As long as it clears, I'm not concerned.
MALIBU 2" steel cowl induction hood reviews
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Mine fits pretty much the same way....close gap between the rear edge of the cowl scoop and the windshield. As long as it clears, I'm not concerned.
Jack,
The photos were taken without springs. The shop had the hood supported with a pole. I need to come up with a solution to limit the travel. I was thinking a thin length of SS wire rope, looped on both ends and they'll keep the hood from going back to far. Still on the back burner though.
The photos were taken without springs. The shop had the hood supported with a pole. I need to come up with a solution to limit the travel. I was thinking a thin length of SS wire rope, looped on both ends and they'll keep the hood from going back to far. Still on the back burner though.
The cable solution would work...or perhaps you can devise the dual strut method like used on some other G-body cars. Either way you want to limit travel of the hood .
I didn't realize that your hood springs weren't installed in the picture.
The shop took the springs off as soon as they saw the problem. I looked at the shocks on a Buick. I would have to weld on brackets to the inner fenders. Too much work at this point. Im thinking the thin cables will work. Thats going to be one of the last things I figure out after the engines back in and everythings done under the hood.
I didn't realize it was that involved to install the hood struts. I never really studied them up close. I do like the concept, though.
It's really not that involved mikester,i did it with my stock hood/hinges and it's a bolt in affair.if anyone's interested I'll post pictures and part numbers later tonight.
I'd love to see what you did. I looked at a Regal in the local yard and the bracket was part of the fender. Once I saw that I just shut the hood. Too much invested in time and the paint on my car and I wouldnt want to screw anything up.
i agree,i don't want to mess with my paint anymore.
i removed that whole spring arm from the hinge assembly.you need to retain the bracket that mates it to the hood hinge itself.they're riveted on just grind it down or drill them out.i picked up two packs of ball studs #ML3000 from auto zone.com.you need two packs,one per hinge.the ball stud takes place of one of the hinge to fender bolts.the other goes in the remaining spring arm bracket hole.on the upper hinge side you will turn that stud 180 degrees compared to the lower hinge side and will have to shorten the stud of it'll rub the fender but it's not a big deal.it's straight forward,it'll make sense once you see the picture.as for the strut itself i spec'd it out from lift supportsdepot.com.part number SE110P130.
i removed that whole spring arm from the hinge assembly.you need to retain the bracket that mates it to the hood hinge itself.they're riveted on just grind it down or drill them out.i picked up two packs of ball studs #ML3000 from auto zone.com.you need two packs,one per hinge.the ball stud takes place of one of the hinge to fender bolts.the other goes in the remaining spring arm bracket hole.on the upper hinge side you will turn that stud 180 degrees compared to the lower hinge side and will have to shorten the stud of it'll rub the fender but it's not a big deal.it's straight forward,it'll make sense once you see the picture.as for the strut itself i spec'd it out from lift supportsdepot.com.part number SE110P130.
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