200-4r rebuild 1986 MC SS in a Elco

[DJHull]

Hi everyone,

I bought a used 1986 MC SS transmission 2014 and put it in my 1985 Elco behind a 300ish HP newly rebuilt 350. Ive always had problems with either it has long rubber band like shifts or currently it wont shift under full throttle. Ive had it to 3 different mechanics to set it up and it always comes back different but not right. All I want is firm shifts under WOT at an rpm that doesnt blow the motor, the heads are hi compression so i need to match that. Ive got an appointment to bring it in to be rebuilt on monday and i wanna make sure i get what i want. Is there a kit that they can use, do i need a shift kit, what should i ask them before giving them the ok. At this point its we can rebuild it for 2k, and that doesnt really tell me what im getting. Can anyone give me some advice so i don't walk in ready to be bent over. I don't mind paying up to 3k cdn just want crisp shifts under wot that doesn't explode. the motor may very well be well over 300HP IDK i do know when I hit the throttle it redlines in about 2 sec. I dont have time to shift.

I believe this came from a Monte Carlo SS 305 3.73.

 

[DJHull]

Hi everyone,

I bought a used 1986 MC SS transmission 2014 and put it in my 1985 Elco behind a 300ish HP newly rebuilt 350. Ive always had problems with either it has long rubber band like shifts or currently it wont shift under full throttle. Ive had it to 3 different mechanics to set it up and it always comes back different but not right. All I want is firm shifts under WOT at an rpm that doesnt blow the motor, the heads are hi compression so i need to match that. Ive got an appointment to bring it in to be rebuilt on monday and i wanna make sure i get what i want. Is there a kit that they can use, do i need a shift kit, what should i ask them before giving them the ok. At this point its we can rebuild it for 2k, and that doesnt really tell me what im getting. Can anyone give me some advice so i don't walk in ready to be bent over. I don't mind paying up to 3k cdn just want crisp shifts under wot that doesn't explode. the motor may very well be well over 300HP IDK i do know when I hit the throttle it redlines in about 2 sec. I dont have time to shift.

Take a look at this. I found this info on line.

 

[Crd80BU]

The Drama is nearly over with my transmission, the 87 GN transmission stamped BR3 on the valve body and the correct governor, is officially installed and its quite different over the MC SS transmission. This one pulls real hard at WOT shifts between 5500 and 6000 with enough clunk to let you know its shifting. no sliding into gear so im pretty happy, the lockup was installed and brings the rpm down. The only issue Im having and I doubt the shop will help me is when I take my foot off the gas and its decelerating its not smooth almost herky jerky enough for me to not like it, it was smooth decelerating now not so much, anyone know where I should start looking? Thanks for all the advice BTW

 

[olds307 and 403]

It could be the lock up sticking on. Glad to hear it was as advertised.

 

[83MonteCarloSS]

The Drama is nearly over with my transmission, the 87 GN transmission stamped BR3 on the valve body and the correct governor, is officially installed and its quite different over the MC SS transmission. This one pulls real hard at WOT shifts between 5500 and 6000 with enough clunk to let you know its shifting. no sliding into gear so im pretty happy, the lockup was installed and brings the rpm down. The only issue Im having and I doubt the shop will help me is when I take my foot off the gas and its decelerating its not smooth almost herky jerky enough for me to not like it, it was smooth decelerating now not so much, anyone know where I should start looking? Thanks for all the advice BTW

How are you activating the TCC?

 

[Crd80BU]

The TCC should be working automatically, thats what I asked the transmission guy to set up. I unplugged it and the cars no longer chugging when I decelerate, I called the guy and he says he thinks it can be toggled guess I'll have him take another stab at It I certainly cant figure it out. This is exactly what happened when I hooked one up to my MC ss trany.

 

[83MonteCarloSS]

The TCC should be working automatically, thats what I asked the transmission guy to set up. I unplugged it and the cars no longer chugging when I decelerate, I called the guy and he says he thinks it can be toggled guess I'll have him take another stab at It I certainly cant figure it out. This is exactly what happened when I hooked one up to my MC ss trany.

There has to be a way to deactivate the lockup it it will do what you are describing. If you want it to be automatic it will have to be wired through the brake switch and a vacuum operated switch.

 

[Gonzo1970]

did any of those mechanics ever take the car for a test run? I would find a transmission mechanic who has experience and a good reputation for the 200 4r to get his/her opinion of what the problem is before handing it over for a rebuild. Someone who know the 200 4r will bge able to tell you what options you have for a rebuild and what the cost of each option is. Spidereyes455 was correct in that these transmission needs someone who specializes in these transmissions. That mechainc who can't tell you what you are getting for 2k is doing you a favour by telling you to run

Read that, then read that again.

-Gonz

 

[64nailhead]

There are kits to make the lockup function correctly if your car didn't come setup with a lockup converter and ECU to control it. I'd gather that your car did not, so you need a kit or be crafty and build your own.

Next, someone has already asked how you have the TV cable (throttle valve) hooked to your carb. You need to confirm that this is hooked correctly with the correct bracket. Throttle lever geometry is absolutely critical to making this thing live. You can't just hook to any old post on the carb all nilly willy like and expect it to last long. If you, or your builder, did that, then it won't last long.

Lastly, the TV cable is the only input to this transmission for what the driver is doing. It is designed to let the transmission know when you're cruising, idling, and working it hard. It is properly set with a line pressure gauge. TV cable adjustments ARE NOT, REPEAT NOT, made to change how the car shifts. Any 200-R4 or 700-4R guy worth his salt knows this. The TV cable set incorrectly will burn up bands/clutches in less than 5K miles or couple of long burnouts.

Maybe get us some pictures of the carb and TV cable setup you have currently. If you need help with parts or tools needed, then let us know. FWIW, I'm not a trans rebuilder, but I know how to setup a 200 correctly. My son runs a pretty stout 200 in his car and works better than ok.


The biggest issue with setting the TV cable is that a fresh transmission and transmission pump will drive/operate properly with excessive or inadequate line pressure - it's kind of a real crapper because you'll think all is well.............until it isn't 🙁

 

[pontiacgp]

Read that, then read that again.

-Gonz

it was difficult enough for me to write it and now you expect me to read it??......