2003 Cobra LS Swap (8/1/22 - Wiring Chassis)

[Burning]

Happy new year guys, life has really been busting my *ss lately but i did have 3 weeks off from work so i got a couple projects around the house done as well as some work on the car.

First things first, got the SBE 5.3 rings gapped, all new gaskets and bearings throughout, and buttoned up for my buddy whos car im helping do the fab work on.

Then I switched gears and worked on finishing my hotside for the Cobra.

Double slip all welded, freely moves.

Merge is fully welded.

Got the Motion Raceworks low side Alt on.

Wastegates cutout, welded to pipe, and welded to the hotside. Had to breakout my BBW cup so i could stick out really far in that wastegate area.

After welding the hotside completely in i noticed some movement in the cold side charge pipe. It wouldn't connect anymore, and it was always off a little bit so i cut it apart and added a sliver.

Broke out my new bender to bend some 1-1/4" Chromoly for the Maven Turbo mount. Love the bender, only second piece ive done and it was easy.

Got my 2 new Pro-Mod Hughes Powerglides in. Pretty said when the payload is worth more than the truck hauling it! Lol

And then lastly the weekend before Christmas i ran up to CT to grab my new car. This car is going to be a Coyote/Whipple T56 street car for the fiance.

Couple things I am working on right now:
1. Finding a remote water pump block for the front of the engine.
2. Start fabricating brackets for the rear mounted radiator.
3. Finish cutting interior panels to fit roll cage.
4. Either rework the rear bars or fit the ice tank in the rear seat.

Thats all folks.

 

[motorheadmike]

Awesome as always. I am really looking forward to seeing more.

What are you basic settings for welding the stainless?

 

[Burning]

Awesome as always. I am really looking forward to seeing more.

What are you basic settings for welding the stainless?

I use a button instead of a pedal for stainless, easier for me to control. But i am around 70 amps, using .023 filler rod, 20-25 CFH depending on which cup im using and 6-7 seconds of post flow.

 

[motorheadmike]

I use a button instead of a pedal for stainless, easier for me to control. But i am around 70 amps, using .023 filler rod, 20-25 CFH depending on which cup im using and 6-7 seconds of post flow.

Thanks, and its a variable rate/pressure button I am guessing.

 

[Burning]

Thanks, and its a variable rate/pressure button I am guessing.

Its just a momentary switch, all or nothing. I like it for tacking stainless too, ill up the amperage to 85 and it gives it a quick fuse so you dont risk blowing it out.

 

[motorheadmike]

View attachment 189605

Its just a momentary switch, all or nothing. I like it for tacking stainless too, ill up the amperage to 85 and it gives it a quick fuse so you dont risk blowing it out.

Interesting. I have a similar one on my torch. Definitely a winner for tacks, clearly you have it sorted out for your piping.

I was referencing the type that is offered at 6061.com:

TIG Button - 6061 Finger Hand Amperage Control Order HERE

I am thinking about getting one for when I do the cage in the Monte.

 

[Burning]

Interesting. I have a similar one on my torch. Definitely a winner for tacks, clearly you have it sorted out for your piping.

I was referencing the type that is offered at 6061.com:

TIG Button - 6061 Finger Hand Amperage Control Order HERE

I am thinking about getting one for when I do the cage in the Monte.

that's pretty cool, i dont know if id like it that well because im already so focused on getting the damn torch steady let alone trying to add force on a button to regulate lol.
When i did the tubular front end, i used the botton, what i learned is that if you start off with a little lower amp and let it heat the initial 1/4" of bead then it picks up the speed back to like if you had a pedal where you mash it down then back it off.

 

[Burning]

Whats up guys, still alive. Been doing lots of home projects lately. But hopefully making some progress soon. Got a couple parts in for the car.

Derale 4000CFM fan and shroud kit, should flow plenty for the rear radiator setup.

5" 11 Gauge Aluminum pipe for the down pipe.

417 Water Manifold

Swirl Pot to help bleed the air in the system in the rear.

Decided to stick a SBE in it for this season, as i recoup some funds to put the forged motor together. Going to go ahead and buy an aftermarket block so i can utilize the 6 bolt Brodix Heads, that'll be the summer purchases. 2006 5.3, also scored some 243 heads for it as well all for $300 bucks. Ill regasket/Reseal it and throw a custom spec cam in to help aid the GT55.

Then i got a wild hair up my *ss and decided to rip all of my work bench out and build this new work bench. It utilized 3 52" Tool boxes, 11 gauge mild steel top, and constructed of 2x2x11 gauge steel. Dont mind the spray paint on the floor, the garage will be getting new floors put in the spring.

I have the RaceWire Solutions control board and switch panel coming any day now, fuel lines are ordered, coolant lines are ordered, converter is ordered. Hopefully start plumbing and wiring the car in the next couple of weeks.

 

[Burning]

Went out and bought a new "Used" metal saw this weekend, was having issues fitting the 5" pipe in my JET so it was time to up the ante.

Its a 1997 Well-Bilt (rebranded to Klutch today) 7x12 with coolant and 3/4 blade. Really sturdy, cuts damn near perfect. Got a couple of things to fix on it, the hyrdualic cylinder has a little bit of a leak so im going to reseal it and see what happens.

Compared to the old JET.

ahh yes, thatll do.

And we have a hole!

Im taking the tip to a local fab shop and having them plasma some stainless for the trim ring. Should look pretty killer when done. I did cut it a little too short on the radius so its not much as a tear drop as i would like. But at $125 for this 90 bend, itll be just fine! LOL

 

[Burning]

1 hour a night gets the job done.

Got the downpipe all pieced together. The new bad saw made quick breeze of this and super straights, much less flattening the pie cuts to get it where i need it. Used a digital protractor to find the inside angle i needed to get me close, set the band saw up for 4 degree cuts for a total of 8 degree per pie cut. Worked like a charm. I need to clean the aluminum up in a couple of places so that i can tack it in place then remove from the car to full pen weld. Leaving it a little protruding, i like it till it cuts me and then i cut it off lol.

Fuel lines showed up, got dummy injectors on the way. Im going to block off the secondary set of injectors for now. Im running -12 from the Fuel cell to the aeromotive 5.0 GPM, then -10 post filter to the split, -8 to the rails and then return with -8.

Around $700 in fuel lines and fittings here... Ouch