2004r CZF shift firmness?

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V8 Rumble

Royal Smart Person
Jan 7, 2010
1,290
585
113
Connecticut
To do the dual feed mod you will have to take the trans apart.

On the direct drum you have to remove the lip seal.



The middle ring on the center support. Pictured behind the direct drum. not a great pic but you can see I left off the middle seal out.



Here is a closer pic of the center support.



If you look at the middle here you will see two bolts. These hold the center support. the factory bolts have a hole through them. You will use the factory bolt on the left and you can use a Allen head bolt on the right side or tap the second bolt and use a screw or bolt. if you use s Allen bolt it is an m10 x 1.5 x 23.



If you do it this way you will need a billet or hardened forward drum.
 

83MonteCarloSS

Greasemonkey
Oct 5, 2015
153
254
63
Shift Kit is installed.

So far I'm happy with it. Glad I chose all the "mild" size holes in the separator plate and not the "wild".

I didn't install the servo.

The shifts are faster, firmer, without being harsh until you really get into it, then I had the tires spinning between some shifts. Big difference from the way this trans was before.

I'll list some of the issues I had doing this job later.
 
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83MonteCarloSS

Greasemonkey
Oct 5, 2015
153
254
63
The biggest challenge was inserting the accumulator pistons after installing the new seals. I didn't think I'd ever get them back in.

If you do this, use ATF and some petroleum jelly. I still had to use a crankshaft pulley off an old snowblower motor to help press the pistons in place.
 

TexasT

Master Mechanic
Mar 20, 2008
411
94
28
Texas


Next time get a plastic two or one liter bottle and cut out a lip seal tool like this one. And another piece to do the center with. Also you can see my solution for getting the snap ring back on the piston using my press.




I used some blue trans gel. but I'm told Vaseline works too.
Everything I read sez not to dual feed without a billet shaft forward drum.
 
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83MonteCarloSS

Greasemonkey
Oct 5, 2015
153
254
63
I got some more drive time in and am very happy with the results.

I replaced the TCC solenoid when I did the shift kit install because the clutch wouldn't disengage after it had been locked up for more than a few miles. That took care of the issue. I had it on the highway locked up for at least 10 miles and it unlocked like it's supposed to.
 
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504TasteThaGumbo

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Feb 22, 2017
11
3
3
You don't say what you swapped it into other than it is behind a 305 so I'm guessing it went into the 83 MCSS. You don't say how far into the trans you want to go so I'll start with some stuff that requires dropping the pan. First as suggested above make sure the tv cable is pulling the vb tv valve all the way out when your helper applies the throttle WOT. Make sure you have the CZ in paint on the vb.

If you are wanting more and aren't afraid to drop the vb you might do some research on which hole(s) to drill larger in the vb plate. with this you should be careful and only enlarge them a little bit as it is easy to go bigger. Making the hole smaller not near *ss easy. Also as menetioned a larger boost and reverse boost valves and a 700r4 spring in the pump will get the internal pressures up. While you have the vb out you can do some spring swapping to help with shift firmness.

I have some links I send to people who are interested. Let me know and Ill pm them to you.
If you have more questions I'm happy to try to answer them. Let me know and i will pm you my number. I text or if I have time am glad to try and talk about it. That said I'm not a guru, just a diy guy that did an inordinate amount of research before I assembled a 2004r for my ride.

Let us know how you do.
Pm sent
 
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