3.8 Buick

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Street Sweeper22

Greasemonkey
Nov 18, 2017
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One thing I don’t understand is how the rotor, brush and cap go back together. I’ve looked all over for pics for a reference but all I can find are pics of vacuum advance carbs. Usually I’m pretty good at figuring how to put things back together but my distributor was so trashed I don’t get it. Mainly the brush.
 

Street Sweeper22

Greasemonkey
Nov 18, 2017
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Are you sure I need a new cap lol
 

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ELCAM

Royal Smart Person
Jun 19, 2021
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Carbon button goes first into the cap then the rubber seal with the spring going through the hole in the center of the seal. Then the coil goes in.

ccc HEI.jpg
 

ELCAM

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Jun 19, 2021
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Have a new AC 336X cap sitting on the bench and it does come with the button and seal. Can't say for others brands but I imagine they do.
 

Street Sweeper22

Greasemonkey
Nov 18, 2017
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Have a new AC 336X cap sitting on the bench and it does come with the button and seal. Can't say for others brands but I imagine they do.
Ok thank you. I appreciate your help. Everyone on this forum is pretty helpful. When I had a Charger I was on the the Charger forum and it was toxic. If you didn’t have a hellcat everyone just talked crap to you. I’ve never had to rebuild a distributor before so thank you for dumbing it down for me lol
 

Clone TIE Pilot

Comic Book Super Hero
Aug 14, 2011
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Galaxy far far away
Be sure to coat the bushing washer with dialectic grease.
 

Street Sweeper22

Greasemonkey
Nov 18, 2017
233
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Be sure to coat the bushing washer with dialectic grease.
I got some heat sink paste for the module and dielectric grease for the bushing. Do I need to use the dielectric grease on any of the other connections?
Here's the thing about your engjne...

When you took off and replaced the carb, did you install (or was there even still present) the E.F.E.?

It looks like a thick carb gasket with a wire coming off, usually grey plug. In the center would be two recessed metal square grids that sit into the intake surface.

Cold starts the computer heats the wire elements, which helps vaporize the fuel going in aiding in combustion, lowering emissions/unburnt fuel, etc etc etc.

Those are often missing, or, as you may expect, over time the wire grids melt and thus don't perform their function.

Now, what else can lead to fuel smell.... your charcoal canister could have a saturation issue or the fabric pad could have been damaged resulting in granule loss.

Another brainstorm? Instead of pumping the carb ten times, give it a different test. One day do your normal 10 pump routine, but, count how long you're cranking the engine while punching the pedal. Let's pretend it's 20 seconds. On day two, crank the engine for 70% of that time without pedal use. Then, release key, pump 3 times, and turn key trying to start. See if it fires up, or, if you only need to pump it once or twice during the second set of cranking.

That test would be to see if you were having leakdown of the fuel bowl and all that time pushing the pedal, well, if there's no fuel in/at the carb yet your pushing a pedal to release air while waiting for the fuel pump to suck fuel from the tank, to the carb, so on so forth. If that's the case we know other things to look at, and for.

I'd venture you've got a few things going on, amd, have you done the timing gears yet?
I got a carb out of a salvage yard and it had the part you were talking about. Is this worth putting on and is it salvageable? I don’t need to pass emissions btw.
 

ck80

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Feb 18, 2014
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I got some heat sink paste for the module and dielectric grease for the bushing. Do I need to use the dielectric grease on any of the other connections?

I got a carb out of a salvage yard and it had the part you were talking about. Is this worth putting on and is it salvageable? I don’t need to pass emissions btw.
It's not really an emissions part. It helps the car on cold starts by simulating a heated up engine, the fuel/air charge passes through the grid and enters the engine as if it had been running for a while.

So, it's supposed to help more complete fuel burning, less deposits, better cold idle, etc.

If you're still running CCC and the system has the plug for it toss it on, it can only improve drivability.
 

Street Sweeper22

Greasemonkey
Nov 18, 2017
233
91
28
It's not really an emissions part. It helps the car on cold starts by simulating a heated up engine, the fuel/air charge passes through the grid and enters the engine as if it had been running for a while.

So, it's supposed to help more complete fuel burning, less deposits, better cold idle, etc.

If you're still running CCC and the system has the plug for it toss it on, it can only improve drivability.
Ok thanks and yes the plug is still there.
 
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