307 to 403 Olds swap...info please?

[81X11]

I fully admit to being a little over my head on this project. Advice is funny, it was either use all the stock stuff, it'll be fine, or get rid of all the stock parts and use a 1406 Edelbrock.

It was a pain putting all the stock sensors, hoses and stuff back on, plus I rebuilt a second quadrajet, because I was told my first one was too far gone. After all that work, I just could not seem to make it run right...so now I went to Plan B.

Here is the latest update:

I was told that Spectre adaptor/spacer I bought yesterday is way too restrictive, and I should return it, and put a flat adaptor plate (EDL #2732) on the intake, and use a normal 4-hole square-bore spacer to raise the carb over the EGR boss.

So sometime today I'll make the rounds to the parts stores again and do that.

Also have to buy an additional mount, TCI-376710, for the throttle and TV cable connections on the carb, and I may have to buy a universal bracket kit that the throttle and TV cables run through, either an EDL-8036 or a Spectre #24283. BUT some have said the stock 200R4 Cutlass bracket will be fine. We'll see.

Lastly I have to buy a banjo fitting for the fuel line, part # EDL-8089, so I can retain the stock air cleaner assembly, which I want to do.

I know other may do this Olds 307 to Olds 350 or 403 swap, which is why I'm trying to document all this.

Plus, I appreciate the tips and motivation from everyone.

-Mike

 

[Minion1186]

I whent with a non computerized q jet on my 350 olds with a performer rpm and it runs great after a little tuning. Personally I wouldnt use an edelbrock carb and since you have a stock intake you have to get a carb adapter/spacer and all that has to fit under a stock hood and air cleaner. If I was you, I would head back to the parts store and return the carb/spacers and head to the junkyard and find a good quadrajet core and do a basic rebuild.

Plus using a quadrajet retains a stockish look to the motor and you dont need any carb adapters or worry about linkage hitting the egr.

 

[81X11]

Thanks for the tips, but I think I'm going to stay with the Edelbrock. I flat do not want to rebuild another Quadrajet (rebuilt the original 307's twice and the one I have on the 350 once...never ran right). I'm also really liking the idea of getting all the hoses/sensors and related stuff cleaner out so I can see the engine again.

This 350 had an Edelbrock on it when I bought it. The seller kept it. It still had the Performer 350 intake. Just wish it was the one without the EGR.

We'll see how this all comes out!

-Mike

 

[DoubleV]

Thanks for the tips, but I think I'm going to stay with the Edelbrock. I flat do not want to rebuild another Quadrajet (rebuilt the original 307's twice and the one I have on the 350 once...never ran right).

I know you've already made up your mind but is it possible there was never a problem with one or both of your Qjets and they just needed tuning? Of course most 'rebuilt' Qjets are done by monkeys. In the future, get a Qjet rebuild by someone who really knows them like Dean Oliver, Cliff Ruggles etc. Doing so will give you a Qjet matched specifically to your engine and it will be done right. Bolt on and go.

I'm also really liking the idea of getting all the hoses/sensors and related stuff cleaner out so I can see the engine again.

Wether you run the CCC system or not, a Qjet, an Edelbrock carb, or anything else, you don't need most of that BS under the hood. Even with AC, cruise, and the CCC system, my engine looked pretty nice not to mention 'factory'. Sure it didn't look like a stripped down 60's engine, but I have more accessories than your typical 60's car too. Now without the CCC system, my engine only looks a hair cleaner. Not a big night and day difference though.

 

[81X11]

I'd always planned to stay with a Q-jet, but just got fed up. You are most likely right that if I'd gotten a professional rebuild and someone to tune it and the car, it most likely could have been sorted out. The bottom line is the car is sharp as hell, and I've owned it two years now, but it has NEVER run right. After three Q-jet rebuilds by two different techs, I just decided to go with something new and easy to buy and service.

That said, here is the latesty...

Ran all over Austin during lunch. Returned the incorrect/restrictive Spectre adaptor/spacer and got the Elelbrock #ELD-2732 flat adaptor that was reccomended. Also picked up the fuel line banjo fitting, part # EDL-8089.

I wasn't able to find the TCI-376710 adaptor in stock for the throttle and TV cable connections, but Austin Performance is having one sent down from Dallas and I'll have it tomorrow.

Ran by the shop, and set the carb on the intake. That EGR boss is REALLY in the way. Went back to Austin Performance and picked up a 4-hole, 1-inch tall square bore carb spacer. I really hope 1-inch is tall enough to clear the EGR boss for the TV Cable. Any taller and I don't think the hood will close over the stock air cleaner....which I'd really like to retain.

Lastly I struck out on an EGR block-off plate, so I'll going to try to make one myself tonight. I picked up the EGR gasket to use as a template, and will see what kind of metal I can cut and grind into shape tonight after work.

Fingers are crossed that this get her running.

Right now I just want to get the car back to the house. I'm going to tinker with the cruise control, the a/c electrical, and the overdrive lockup once it home. If it runs right I'll drive home in 3rd gear and plan to totally clean and detail under the hood, and then will get on the other stuff when my next pay-period rolls around! 😉

-Mike

 

[81X11]

I got some metal and got after it with my whizz-wheel and grinder last night and MADE me an EGR block-off plate. I actually think it came out pretty well. Will be heading to the shop after work tonight and we'll see how it works.

-Mike

 

[81X11]

Well here's the latest. I dropped the EGR plate off at lunch, and the TCI-376710 adaptor for the throttle and TV cable connections came in. Dropped it off as well.

I'd read that the 307's throttle and TV bracket that mounts to the intake could be used with the 1406 Edelbrock carb. Well...it can't, because I don't have a stock intake. Back to Austin Performace for a bracket kit, EDL-8036.

Next up found out I needed an adaptor to hook the line from the brake booster to the back of the new carb. Thank goodness for O'Reilly, they had just what I needed for $4.

That's the latest folks. Hopefully it'll be running later tonight. Fingers are crossed!!

-Mike

 

[81X11]

Still not running. Found out the 2 1/2 inch long carb studs were too short last night. Went at lunch and got 3-inch studs. I'm running the flat spread-to-square bore plate, the 1-inch spacer to clear the EGR, and four gaskets. The 2 1/2 are just too short.

Also the Edelbrock cable mount kit for the throttle and TV cables will not work on my Performer 350 EGR manifold. Bummer. Had to go get the cheesy chrome Spectre one from Autozone. It fits, that's what matters.

Back to the shop again tonight!

-Mike

 

[81X11]

I'd like to remove the computer wiring harness to further clean up the underhood area. Way back at the beginning of this thread it was explained very clearly how to do it. Thanks again for that!

I do have a question though, and have not looked yet, but since my car has the fully Rally gauge package, do any of my gauge connections run through that harness. I want to keep all my gauges working.

I know there are two sensors mounted to the front of the intake manifold, and I believe they are temp sensors. Just brainstorming. Really want to retain my stock gauges!

 

[DoubleV]

I would advise you to not bother with removing the CCC wiring from behind the dash, at least for now. What you want to remove is the CCC harness from under the hood. It's one big harness that's separate from all the other wiring. This harness goes through a rubber grommet in the firewall under the AC module. You can unplug the ECM from behind the passenger side kick panel and remove harness by removing the grommet from the firewall and pulling it all through the firewall into the car. You'll then need to plug up the hole where the grommet was. I just used a spare old grommet.

Note the grommet is secured by 2 bolts that require some effort to reach and remove. You will have to remove some bolts from the outside passenger side plasic wheel well and pry it out of your way to get to one of the bolts.

The CCC wiring has nothing to do with any of the gauges BUT the speedo does have a speed sensor that sends a signal to the 'speed buffer' which will still be needed for cruise control. Concentrate on removing the CCC harness first, then I can tell you what you need to do to retain your cruise function.