374 Olds 350 stroker build

[JAMCAR223]

I've had this same issue with machine shops before. So when I took my Olds 408 to the machine shop, I bought a large tote on wheels ( I think it was about $30 - I can use it later, ya know ). I put all my parts in that tote, then made a Word Document listing the brand & part numbers. I printed it out, and put it inside of a gallon Ziploc bag, and then taped it to the tote, along with my name & phone #. I printed a 2nd copy, and had the owner sign at the bottom that he had accepted my inventory. In my mind, It showed I was organized, and accepted nothing less from him. It was never an issue. I will do this every time from now on. I bet you will too.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I talked to Mark, it sounds like the Mahle pistons are shipping, I assume both sets ordered. He emailed them as I believe they are drop shipping them to me. Mark sent the Canton oil pan and pick up, rockers, roller cam and connecting rods. I will contact the machine shop, I want the block, along with my 4 main Halo and the longer studs and it completed next Friday.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I talked to the machine shop. My crank has not been ground but wasn't expecting it done, hopefully next week. The block is supposedly done except the cam bearings. I was going to get it Friday but they are closed Thursday and Friday due to Canada Day coming up. So he said they can probably hammer cam bearings in it and get it done tomorrow. My Wife goes back to work Friday Night and I was hoping to go pick it up Friday Morning first thing, so much for that. Now do I leave fishing early to get my block? Really?

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well Hell froze over.

It is bored and honed to 4.100", decked .016" to clean up which might require slightly thicker gaskets, I believe the Mahle pistons sit .013" below deck. It was also align honed on the mains with the ARP studs.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Oh and Dave from Ontario who also ordered his Mahle 4.100" pistons in the same batch just received them with a $175 brokerage fee, mine might be double but should be here soon.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Question on cleaning a block just back from the machine shop. First, it actually looks very clean inside and out. One thing to address is the light rust on the outside of the block before paint the block. Should I use something like naval jelly or Evaporust? Any negative to using Evaporust before paint? I know Naval Jelly needs neutralizing with something basic like Baking Soda or it continues to react even under paint. I still need to get a mirror to check the plug near the distributor gear for a spit hole, the one near the the timing chain has one. I was going to pressure wash the block. Now I wonder if I should just use cloth rags or pick up gun cleaning brushes to see what grime comes out. Thoughts? I still need to blast the oil filter adapter, easy now it is off the block. I will also blast the oil fill tube as well. I may pick up aluminum oxide to help get the little bit of rust and make the paint stick better. Thoughts?

 

[Rktpwrd]

I’ve always just paid the machine shop to give my stuff a thorough cleaning once they were done. Lazy I know, but it saves you the hassle and you’re 99% assured it’ll be done right as they do it all the time.
I seem to have an issue with using soap and water on something that has precision machined bare metal surfaces, protecting afterwards with WD-40 or similar or not.

Flash rust can happen in minutes, and if it does in an area that you can’t reach, then what?
Just my take on it.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I’ve always just paid the machine shop to give my stuff a thorough cleaning once they were done. Lazy I know, but it saves you the hassle and you’re 99% assured it’ll be done right as they do it all the time.
I seem to have an issue with using soap and water on something that has precision machined bare metal surfaces, protecting afterwards with WD-40 or similar or not.

Flash rust can happen in minutes, and if it does in an area that you can’t reach, then what?
Just my take on it.

My worry as well, rust after expensive machine work. I think mild chemical cleaners or brake clean will be used with lint freeze rags or brushes.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I ordered a 18.9L drum of brake cleaner and 4 containers of aluminum oxide blast media, will be here tomorrow from our Canadian Tire sister store. I still have some crushed glass as well. I am stripping the accesories of the Duplicolor garbage, I sure it will peel anyways. This will replace it, VHT low gloss metallic black engine enamel.

I also bought some rust converter to use on my block and iron Flowkooler reverse rotation water pump. My other auto dimming helmet is toast, this was on a good sale.

I also ordered a Dorman R4 compressor delete pulley, a carb brush cleaning set that should work great in the block passages. I also ordered the Edelbrock BBO intake gaskets, will use on the eventual Edelbrock aluminum heads, rubber steel core valve cover gaskets and .042" head gaskets from Amazon. It should give .039" clearance as my Mahle pistons should be .003" out of the block with the necessary tp straighten .016" deck mill. That will be 9.65 to 1 compression with 65cc chambers and ideal quench. With a wideband tuned rebuilt and slightly tweaked by me Everyday Performance 800 cfm Qjet with 34 to 38 degrees in by 3000 rpm and 10 degrees of vacuum advance, hopefully will run great on 91 non Ethanol.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well look what showed up, $118 for this set in brokerage fees. Very nice and well packed.