Doing a hydraulic clutch setup on my cutty, all i need now is pedals. What is easier to modify to fit, 3rd or 4th gen fbody pedals? Looked into the johnB pedal but it seems a little steep, anyone know if it will bolt to my g-body brake pedal?
3rd gen or 4th gen pedals?
- Thread starter Dayzedandkonfuzed
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I used the G body housing with the G body brake pedal cut for the smaller foot pad and jogged the shaft a little towards the gas pedal. I used the 4th gen camaro clutch pedal. I cut the clutch pedal shaft and added a 3/4 inch piece to lengthen the shaft and removed the pin for the master clutch cylinder rod and moved it back 1.25 inches from it original location so the clutch pedal would sit at the height I liked..it's about 3/4 inches further from the firewall than the brake pedal. As far as the hanging bolt use the bolt from the 4th gen set up and the nylon sleeves from the camaro for both brake and clutch pedals
I just got the JohnB pedal in today, its a very nice piece, looks to be worth the price. I'll report back when its installed
I'm in the process of putting in a t5 with hyro linkage and pedals, all out of a third gen Camaro. From everything I've read I should be able to use the the bracket from the brake pedal and just have that welded onto the f-body pedal assembally. I'll be doing a build thread once everything is in and running, so I'll let you know how it works out.
Also, check this out: http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transm ... iteup.html
It shows how to make the master cylinder adjustable instead of having to just extend it. Make sure to read through all of the pages before attempting it, a couple guys learned the hard way that u can only thread down so far before the rod becomes hollow. Also, you should be able to skip taking the master apart, that would only be if the linkage came out too far. But in the g-bodies the rod is always too short, this way you can adjust it to where it feels perfect for you, and if you cant weld its even better lol. Well hope that helped somewhat, good luck with everything.
Also, check this out: http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transm ... iteup.html
It shows how to make the master cylinder adjustable instead of having to just extend it. Make sure to read through all of the pages before attempting it, a couple guys learned the hard way that u can only thread down so far before the rod becomes hollow. Also, you should be able to skip taking the master apart, that would only be if the linkage came out too far. But in the g-bodies the rod is always too short, this way you can adjust it to where it feels perfect for you, and if you cant weld its even better lol. Well hope that helped somewhat, good luck with everything.
CostasCutlass said:
I tried to use the f body bracket and pedals but the the angles of the bracket are not even close to the G body bracket and the pedals were too high and too close due to the pedals design even mounted on the G body bracket. If you have the chance place the two brackets on the floor using the floor as the firewall and you'll see the difference of the brackets.
CostasCutlass said:
Can't I just make a stop for the pedal? I only need an inch of travel for my hydraulic throwout bearing... Unless I'm totally missing something...
pontiacgp said:
Really? I've heard of people doing this swap quite often
I have the John B pedal and it bolts up perfectly fine and works perfectly. Only thing you have to add is a pedal stop and bracket to activate a neutral safety switch.
3rd gen pedals I've been told work but I didn't mess with them. I do know you have to modify the mounting points to the firewall. The top two holes match up fine between the two but the F-body lower holes aren't as far down as the G-body.
Personally, I prefer John's pedal.
3rd gen pedals I've been told work but I didn't mess with them. I do know you have to modify the mounting points to the firewall. The top two holes match up fine between the two but the F-body lower holes aren't as far down as the G-body.
Personally, I prefer John's pedal.
Escaped_Psyco said:
I thought you were using a hydraulic master and slave, not a hydraulic throwout bearing... I personally like making the master adjustable instead of having to bother with extending the rod by welding an extension (especially since i can't weld!) or changing the mounting point for it on the pedal. I don't know a damn thing about hydraulic throwout bearings so it might be totally different...
The Hyd. T/O bearing works pretty much like your brakes and brake master cylinder do.
You just have a clutch master cylinder that has a rod connected to the clutch pedal then a hydraulic line that runs down to the T/O bearing. When you apply the clutch pedal, it forces fluid into the T/O bearing which has a roller bearing face that then moves out and disengages the clutch.
It essentially just gets rid of the slave cylinder and clutch fork in typical hydraulic setup.
You just have a clutch master cylinder that has a rod connected to the clutch pedal then a hydraulic line that runs down to the T/O bearing. When you apply the clutch pedal, it forces fluid into the T/O bearing which has a roller bearing face that then moves out and disengages the clutch.
It essentially just gets rid of the slave cylinder and clutch fork in typical hydraulic setup.
costas, here's a picture of the F body pedals using the F body pedal bracket. Take a look at the location of your brake pedal and you'll see the difference of the height and location relative to the firewall of the pedals. You can also reference the location of the pedals with the parking brake pedal in the picture
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