5.3 swap motor mounts

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Subscribed...............i'm at a loss of words, what the train of thought was here....i swapped mine with 1" aluminum setbacks and solid moroso mounts.......WHY DID YOU DRILL HOLES IN THE SIDE OF THE BLOCK!?!?!?!
 
Anubis why would I buy the Holley kit. I got truck oil pan to fit hangs no lower than muscle car pan now. Hood shuts with truck intake. I am doing a budget swap to see if I can make a car from junkyard parts. Anybody can buy a bolt in kit and put it in. That Holley kit hasn't been out all that long. So your saying everyone not using it is a hack. I have less into my swap than you paid for your Holley oil pan.
 
GPNX, I think that most people here can appreciate that there are some people want to try to perform the LS engine swap without spending a ton of money, and that there's some satisfaction in getting things to work with some ingenuity, and some sweat equity. I have to admit though, that I'm as curious as everyone else here to see some photos of where and how you drilled the holes in the side of your engine block, and how you got your engine mounts to fit. Any chance of you posting some photos of that part of your LS swap?
 
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GPNX I'm with clean8485 on the appreciating the ingenuity aspect of the whole thing but there are just some things not worth the risk. The motor mounts don't cost so much as to risk ruining the whole engine. You know what I mean. Also if you have the truck pan that high up as to it barely sticks out, Then the pinion angle is probably way off. You could've fabed your own mounts? Fab your own cross member, Made your own intake? There are so many things that can save a buck. drilling through the engine block though? I dont know about that one
 
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Hundreds, if not THOUSANDS of people have swapped LS engines into almost every chassis imagineable, and you're the first one that has drilled new holes in their block.

Either you're having a good laugh at us, or you are a complete idiot. Just because something can be done, it does not mean it should BE done.

I still want to see the block with the new holes
 
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Anubis why would I buy the Holley kit. I got truck oil pan to fit hangs no lower than muscle car pan now. .

I think you've demonstrated pretty well how not to do it.....For reference, here's a 2011 pic with the muscle car oil pan you think is the benchmark. As you can see,it hangs 2" below the engine cradle as well as the el cheapo F body headers someone had to bend and dent to make them fit. This set up creates a situation where the engine is too high with a crappy inclination angle. I also would dare to say that the header collector exit through the cross member doesn't line up properly. It's how a lot of the early swaps where done because there weren't better solutions. If you want to hack your car I won't judge you. Just trying to point out that there are engineered solutions that bolt in to our cars. Do you really think GM would have done it this way? BTW, the 6.2 truck intake will not clear with this set up. You will need the Holley set up which sets the engine lower in the cradle. If you don't have the money to do it right I understand. Being a perfectionist, I would never do it to my car. Post some pics of your project so we can all learn how to do it cheap.

Malibu212.jpg
 
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Alright my transmission angle is at 3 degrees. I can more than fit my hand between truck oil pan and crossmember. Oil pan is 1-7/8" below k member. I got the hood to shut with truck intake manifold. All the truck accessories fit except I had to change power steering pump pulley. I used truck manifold on pass side and camaro on driver side and they clear. I am doing trans cooler lines now and next is fuel lines. I don't know what to run for fuel lines though. Should I use OEM plastic which I don't have confidence in holding up. Aluminum, steel with rubber or braided. All the cars I've done before have been carbureted. I have the fuel rail line from a truck.
 
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