500 rwhp 350 chevy in 1986 Monte Carlo

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No matter how you do it.Horsepower cost money

HP costs money but often people overlook driveability for their street car. You may reach your 500 wheel HP goal but hate it's street manners.
You can build a smooth running LS 5.3 with turbo with your budget and exceed 500 whp without breaking a sweat.

 
HP costs money but often people overlook driveability for their street car. You may reach your 500 wheel HP goal but hate it's street manners.
You can build a smooth running LS 5.3 with turbo with your budget and exceed 500 whp without breaking a sweat.

i dont know.. i mean a carbd sbc is pretty self explanatory. But a turbo LS would be just as fast. what should the internals look like for a turbo build? im not too familiar with the LS motors.
 
i dont know.. i mean a carbd sbc is pretty self explanatory. But a turbo LS would be just as fast. what should the internals look like for a turbo build? im not too familiar with the LS motors.
Internals for a turbo LS build....stock as long as boost is kept below 15lbs. I've got this 5.3 on my engine stand that has a stock bottom end, new bearings and rings. I put a hefty cam in it, and had the factory heads checked and springs upgraded to BTR .660 units to handle the boost cam. It should easily make 550hp and be streetable while my old sbc was 400hp and an absolute *ss on the street!
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HP costs money but often people overlook driveability for their street car. You may reach your 500 wheel HP goal but hate it's street manners.
You can build a smooth running LS 5.3 with turbo with your budget and exceed 500 whp without breaking a sweat.


I will say aman to that. If you want HP on the street the best way is a power adder via turbo, supercharged, procharged, or just plain spay it !
 
i dont know.. i mean a carbd sbc is pretty self explanatory. But a turbo LS would be just as fast. what should the internals look like for a turbo build? im not too familiar with the LS motors.

Don't let it scare you. You can pick up used 5.3 engines for less then $300. They are stout in factory form and do not require upgrades. The investment is the hot side, turbo, and swap parts for your car. There are a ton of resources available on line, you just need to do your homework. Keep it EFI, build over 500 whp with good street manners and still get over 20 mpg.
 
Internals for a turbo LS build....stock as long as boost is kept below 15lbs. I've got this 5.3 on my engine stand that has a stock bottom end, new bearings and rings. I put a hefty cam in it, and had the factory heads checked and springs upgraded to BTR .660 units to handle the boost cam. It should easily make 550hp and be streetable while my old sbc was 400hp and an absolute *ss on the street!

Looks nice! what year engine did you start with?
 
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Greetings Guys; Interesting conversation here. So I ask the question "why can't Original Poster put turbo on old world SBC"? Similar results LESS $$$$. And he already owns old world SBC! From my years of experience, if some boost is GOOD, is MORE Better?? Of course it is. Then how many years or miles do ya want it to last?? Even a sbc at 450 HP at the crank will only last 30,000 to 40,000 miles max. You ask how do I know this, because I've built 3 in the last 34 years. First one had GM block, crank, ported OE heads, rods, JE pistons & modest aftermarket cam. Now keep in mind I have a rule if it comes out of the garage it will at lease one blast to MAX RPM. It lasted 9 years & 28,000 miles. Second one only retained the GM block, JE pistons & all the rest was new aftermarket. This one with more cam, Calies crank, Eagle rods & AFR heads made 433 HP 460 Lbs FT of Torque. 9 years later & 27,000 miles two (2) broken main caps! Saved all the rest of the parts, attained another GM block & put Eagle Splayed tool steel main caps on it with hardened bearings (their black Ok dark gray). And re worked the AFR heads + a roller cam & it is still going strong with 13,000 miles on it. Didn't dyno this one but best guess is around 475 HP & 500 Lbs Ft of torque at the crank. I did refresh the valve train at 11,000 miles. The springs were junk with one inner broken & when I had the lifter magnafluxed found one cracked. So the whole hobby comes down to how much do you want to SPEND & How LONG Do you want it to LAST?? Have FUN, Ole' Bob.
 
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