You need to get the trans shifting properly, although it laid down on mpg you picked up 2 tens et. In third (no overdrive) your only going through the traps @3700, you could use more gear. A set of 26 inch tires on back would give you about 300 more rpm.
442 7.5 rear frankenstien.
- Thread starter Kratos
- Start date
- Status
You need to get the trans shifting properly, although it laid down on mpg you picked up 2 tens et. In third (no overdrive) your only going through the traps @3700, you could use more gear. A set of 26 inch tires on back would give you about 300 more rpm.
That 442 trans stock should be shifting at close to 5000 rpm. If it isn't it could need the TV cable adjusted or someone swapped the trans at some point with a low performance one. It sounds like it is dying up top, he already has 3.73 gears, it should be pulling more rpm. Your 60 ft times are slow, are you getting wheel spin?
Last edited:
Well, someone used the term "Bastardized" and they were correct. Apparently , when they swapped engines, they snapped the Kickdown cable.
I have run without one and I am sure that is not helping my cause.
The trans is (I believe) original to the car. ( it is an OZ )
I have grabbed a Kickdown cable, it is not hooked up to the carb.
The voodoo magic required to get it right intimidates me a little, so I need to make sure that it is installed correctly.
It is not a job that I have performed, so I am not sure what the specifics are. I was reading something like 1 7/64 - 1 1/8" distance, and I saw a video about setting it up and
how the plunger moves when throttle goes from full pedal to released pedal.
If I understand correctly, this trans should shift in the high 4000's rpm range? because that would be ideal to keep this engine in it's power range.
Is this TV cable that difficult of a task to get right? do I need to drop the pan to verify the actuation? or is having the cable tight at WOT correct? is there a margin for error?
I don't want to ruin it, and I am considering swapping it into my street Camino and running a T350 at the track.
The 200 Horsepower estimate seems accurate to me , unless it is being masked by poor trans performance.
The EQ Heads are attractive, especially because the make them with the earlier intake bolt pattern and it would save me from the added expense of a Vortec specific Intake and they are about $900.
then again, for $100 more, I could be putting on the Brodix heads ( But I am sure that they would like a bigger cam to make better use of their capabilities ( going into a rabbit hole here, more money begets more power, and then stuff breaks , requiring more money ha ha )
Thanks for all of the Input thus far! I will keep plugging away. Jeff
I have run without one and I am sure that is not helping my cause.
The trans is (I believe) original to the car. ( it is an OZ )
I have grabbed a Kickdown cable, it is not hooked up to the carb.
The voodoo magic required to get it right intimidates me a little, so I need to make sure that it is installed correctly.
It is not a job that I have performed, so I am not sure what the specifics are. I was reading something like 1 7/64 - 1 1/8" distance, and I saw a video about setting it up and
how the plunger moves when throttle goes from full pedal to released pedal.
If I understand correctly, this trans should shift in the high 4000's rpm range? because that would be ideal to keep this engine in it's power range.
Is this TV cable that difficult of a task to get right? do I need to drop the pan to verify the actuation? or is having the cable tight at WOT correct? is there a margin for error?
I don't want to ruin it, and I am considering swapping it into my street Camino and running a T350 at the track.
The 200 Horsepower estimate seems accurate to me , unless it is being masked by poor trans performance.
The EQ Heads are attractive, especially because the make them with the earlier intake bolt pattern and it would save me from the added expense of a Vortec specific Intake and they are about $900.
then again, for $100 more, I could be putting on the Brodix heads ( But I am sure that they would like a bigger cam to make better use of their capabilities ( going into a rabbit hole here, more money begets more power, and then stuff breaks , requiring more money ha ha )
Thanks for all of the Input thus far! I will keep plugging away. Jeff
Last edited:
You need to see what pistons are in the motor. I would assume Vortec heads have considerably smaller combustion chambers then your current heads. I would suggest going to roller cam as well. I am not a fan of the sbc but take advantage of the cheap and better parts available. Move the throttle by hand and push the button on the TV cable. This should be the ideal setting but you probably need a geometry corrector for the Edelbrock carb, your line pressure may be too low and will eventually cause failure. Are the shifts soft and barely noticeable? I actually added zip ties to make sure I get full TV pull and it does add a couple hundred rpm full throttle over the ideal setting.
I am going to adjust the TV Cable this week. My shifts are not very noticeable except that I could tell that they are happening way too early. I have watched a few videos, and printed some instructions from @Extreme Automatics. I will drop the pan and verify the plunger movement and length, and adjust the cable accordingly. ( plus a fluid and filter change is not a bad idea while it's open)
I did order a Jegs Torque Converter 2k-2300 stall for Th350 this morning. I am going to swap in the 350 ( Makes sense to me that I have a rebuilt one on the shelf, they are cheaper and easier to rebuild, and its a drag race only car so I have no need for an OD trans in a racing application.)
The engine seems to be pretty sound. While the bigger cam, better heads etc will be nice, getting the car consistent should be my first objective.
True, Vortec heads will bump up the compression from what ever it is right now. Its an older block, ( I am thinking 1974-75 era, probably 76cc chambers) so, roller cam is going to be expensive to convert ( I assume) However, I could find a 96-2000 5.7 engine and have the roller block, and Vortec heads. I don't have a problem buying higher octane fuel if necessary
And I understand that keeping the Olds "Olds" Powered is preferred by many Olds purists, I would also like to go that route, but this is very entry level, so I am being cautious and frugal with changes.
Again, Thanks for the advice. I will hopefully be able to post steady improvements with your guidance. Plus, I get to maybe go faster and win a race or two ( I on my first race this year, but my opponent red lit, and my Second race, my opponent broke out. so its more like they lost than I won. Got a BOP Inviational at Beaver Springs Dragway on 7/25. Here's hoping that I make a decent showing!
Unless you have all the factory brackets, converting it to Olds is more difficult now unfortunately. I assume there is conversion lifters but there are good flat tappet cams as well, tons for the sbc. I gained half a second just bumping compression and adding flow with ported, big valve heads, similar to the Vortec without modern combustion chambers, along with a custom tune Qjet carb. If I would have swapped in a 220ish duration cam vs the too small 204/214 cam, it wouldn't have pinged and ran a second faster. I got my *ss handed to me till my last year, actually won a few. You need more compression and cam, along with the stall you are planning on. Remember, you will be close to 4000 pounds, 500 pounds heavier then even a stock Fox body Mustang. I was going to gut my 88 for the weight reduction. If you do, members may be interested with your car's, it being a 442. Plus you have the much more bullet proof 8.5" rear. I broke the 7.5" twice, slicks take their toll on weak parts.
Good find - hope the trans is fine. Good idea to get the car consistent before you just go off buying parts. I would have like to seen you get a bigger converter than you ordered and leave more room to grow, especially since you are race only. I've played with SBC's a long time and they are easy to get HP out of. Like any build the engine and drive train parts have to complement each other for max performance. Nothing wrong with the older blocks or flat tappet cams, I still run one. Interested in you next outing results - see if you can borrow a set of 26 in slicks for a pass.
I agree on the converter, something like Jeggs 2300 to 2700 stall would be more appropriate. You should stall more toward the lower end of the rating as is, a good thing.
i will be in this White Cutlass, probably hanging out with a buddy in a big gray "BOO!" 76 Cutlass
Attachments
- Status
Similar threads
