Something special in the back. Pick up and drop off yesterday at the transmission shop in Winnipeg
80 442 full powertrain swap
- Thread starter Kelvin's80442
- Start date
- Status
Cool, hopefully they know the 2004R well. A very tricky transmission to get shifts right at the proper rpm and live under power.
Sounds to. Came recommend from my engine builder builds plenty of transmissions. He just finished a 10,000 transmission build for a customer. Lol
Sounds like he knows, he was adamant that I find a brf coded 200 4R. Was talking about setting up the proper shift patterns, specs on my cam, gearing and tire size
Sounds like he knows, he was adamant that I find a brf coded 200 4R. Was talking about setting up the proper shift patterns, specs on my cam, gearing and tire size
Cool project. Suspension wise on my car, I went with a rebuild of my stock front control arms. If you aren't going to autocross, I think they are quite sufficient. I went with Moog on all the bushings, balljoints, steering linkage, etc. I went with their problem solver front control arm bushings which are supposed to last like polyurethane, be firmer than stock rubber, but less firm than polyurethane and no danger of squeaking. I upgraded to the UMI sway bar since my car didn't have an F41 bar like yours did. I went with the Blazer brake setup and also changed the steering gearbox to the close ratio one.
On springs, I went with Moog 5660, which are S10 springs. They get you close to stock height with a much firmer spring. I figure I will trim as needed.
My car already had the Grand Prix bar, the radiator cross braces and the core support to fender braces. I acquired a pair of jounce bars. If you don't have either, UMI makes a nice integrated brace that does the same thing as the jounce and GP bars. My goal was to get rid of all the boaty feel in the front, do it on a budget and have something crisp but not harsh.
I spent the money in the rear, since the 350 I put in the car makes around twice the power of those that came stock in the performance V-8 cars. I went with UMI tubular non adjustable lower control arms. It was hard for me to not buy the boxed lowers but my research said they were much heavier with no strength benefit.
I went with UMI adjustable upper control arms with roto-joints to make sure there is no binding by virtue of all polyurethane bushings. My car didn't have a rear sway bar so I bought the stock style bar from UMI. That may have been a mistake, not going with an axle mounted road race style bar.
Rear bracing wise, I have the UMI shock tower brace, bolt in control arm mount braces and a Curt trailer hitch to tie the rear rails together. I went with KYB Gas Adjust shocks all the way around and am staying with drums on the 8.5. I am going to upgrade the rear brakes with the bolt in wheel cylinder brackets and S10 wheel cylinders.
Just food for thought. There is a junkyard Trailblazer rear axle mounted bar setup out there that looks hard to beat. You can save money rebushing and boxing your lower control arms. There are a ton of different ways to go. I told you my setup just to give you ideas. With your power level, I'd bolt in every frame brace I could find and do something to upgrade the brakes.
On springs, I went with Moog 5660, which are S10 springs. They get you close to stock height with a much firmer spring. I figure I will trim as needed.
My car already had the Grand Prix bar, the radiator cross braces and the core support to fender braces. I acquired a pair of jounce bars. If you don't have either, UMI makes a nice integrated brace that does the same thing as the jounce and GP bars. My goal was to get rid of all the boaty feel in the front, do it on a budget and have something crisp but not harsh.
I spent the money in the rear, since the 350 I put in the car makes around twice the power of those that came stock in the performance V-8 cars. I went with UMI tubular non adjustable lower control arms. It was hard for me to not buy the boxed lowers but my research said they were much heavier with no strength benefit.
I went with UMI adjustable upper control arms with roto-joints to make sure there is no binding by virtue of all polyurethane bushings. My car didn't have a rear sway bar so I bought the stock style bar from UMI. That may have been a mistake, not going with an axle mounted road race style bar.
Rear bracing wise, I have the UMI shock tower brace, bolt in control arm mount braces and a Curt trailer hitch to tie the rear rails together. I went with KYB Gas Adjust shocks all the way around and am staying with drums on the 8.5. I am going to upgrade the rear brakes with the bolt in wheel cylinder brackets and S10 wheel cylinders.
Just food for thought. There is a junkyard Trailblazer rear axle mounted bar setup out there that looks hard to beat. You can save money rebushing and boxing your lower control arms. There are a ton of different ways to go. I told you my setup just to give you ideas. With your power level, I'd bolt in every frame brace I could find and do something to upgrade the brakes.
Thanks for the reply, lots of information there that I have to do some research.
Looking at upgrading to blazer brakes. If do, the calipers won't interfere with stock rims?
Still highly considering Sphon front control arms. I see they have a set with 1/2 taller balljoints, I take it as it will lower the front end a tad.
A few have already mentioned to brace up the front and rear end. So additional parts will be required
Looking at upgrading to blazer brakes. If do, the calipers won't interfere with stock rims?
Still highly considering Sphon front control arms. I see they have a set with 1/2 taller balljoints, I take it as it will lower the front end a tad.
A few have already mentioned to brace up the front and rear end. So additional parts will be required
The Blazer brakes are well worth it. Only the tall lower ball joints drop the front.
Yes many have said they are worth it, just having trouble finding a set. Is a gentleman on here has a set in Texas, but freight is killer. Another had warned me that they may not work with my stock rims.
So is there a gain in using the taller balljoint?
140 is plenty, as long as it's actually 140....
If your rims are 15" the blazer brakes will fit. Not sure about 14" rims though...
- Status
Similar threads
