I could definately make my own but I didnt want to go with a solid trans mount. I have heard a lot of nightmares about cracking the tail shaft housing.ssn696 said:
83MONTESS 496/8.5 build
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Guys do run poly mounts on a transmission and solid mounts on the engine but if you have movement in the transmission and none on the engine mounts that can cause you to damage the block since the cast iron block isn't that strong. If you run a solid on the transmission you HAVE to run solids on the engine though. If you do run sold mounts you have to make sure that when you torque every that there is no stress on the mounts or something will break eventually. Alot of race cars have solid mounts and mid engine mounts and no mount for the transmission so it's just hanging off the back of the engine so they don't have an issue with misalignment. When we ran superstocks we ran poly engine mounts so if we met the wall the engine could move and not break. They did save us an engine or two
I found the mystery bushings in the shed o' many things. Cross-referenced the number and it's part of an Energy Suspension kit for a 70's Camaro. Don't think this would work, but the ES catalog had some custom parts you might try.
I was not proposing a solid mount. With the bushing kit, I wonder if you could make a stack - plate, bushings, plate, bushings, washers - bolt and sleeves to locate. Some head scratching involved. Or you could cut off the mount flange and weld it on lower down the face of the crossmember.
Sorry I don't have a magic solution.
I was not proposing a solid mount. With the bushing kit, I wonder if you could make a stack - plate, bushings, plate, bushings, washers - bolt and sleeves to locate. Some head scratching involved. Or you could cut off the mount flange and weld it on lower down the face of the crossmember.
Sorry I don't have a magic solution.
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The main thing when using solid engine mounts and a solid trans mount is to make sure there is no movement anywhere, my modified stock trans crossmember is mounted with solid steel spacers to the frame (eliminating the stock rubber ones) and I have been running it this way for 14+ years with no issues with 400 trans tail shaft housing.
Everything thing on my exhaust is also rigid mounted to the car and roll bars because nothing moves so all my exhaust mounts just bolt directly to the car without hangers.
Everything thing on my exhaust is also rigid mounted to the car and roll bars because nothing moves so all my exhaust mounts just bolt directly to the car without hangers.
Wait a minute...stock rubber spacers? Mine never had any sort of spacers on it. Just the 4 bolts mounting it to the frame....565bbchevy said:
-83MONTESS- said:
If I remember correctly they were about 3/8" - 1/2" thick and had a metal sleeve were the bolts went through, I made my spacers the same thickness to keep the trans close to stock angle so I am not having to compensate for that when I adjust my pinion angle.
I cant find anything online about them. I think I will just make a solid mount and not worry about those rubber bushings.565bbchevy said:
-83MONTESS- said:
My car has rubber spacers- About 3/8" thick between the trans crossmember and the frame. Then I have a steel plate with two (what look like) nut-serts on it so I don't have bolt/nut holding the trans on. The bolts go through the frame, through the rubber spacer, and into the nut-sert in the steel plate.
Like this:
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I had no idea that it was set up like that. Mine just has bolts going through the frame into nuts. No rubber bushing or spacer of any kind.GT_80 said:
I have never seen that set up with the nut plates or a rubber seat in all the G bodies I have seen. I don't like the idea of a rubber cushion as I like the crossmember to tie the two rails together as securely as possible.
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