84' Cutlass pro touring build

BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL. Thru 12/2 Everything (Including Calendars!!) in the shop is 20% off. use code BLACKFRIDAY24.
Well I got a little surface rust on the fender I stripped so I figured I better get a move on it. Knocked it out and hit it with 80 grit on the da sander. Set up my air filtration using 2 30 gallon air compressors tied together. Also using the large desiccant snake at the end connected to the spray gun. I think I need to change that because it's hard to maneuver with it. Any opinions? Did this outside with epoxy primer and only had a few little specs of debris from what I can tell
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They make the smaller screw on at the canister style but they're not as thorough as the snake.all these disposable filter/separator items are designed to be the last line of defense when used WITH an actual dryer.maybe put the snake on the outlet side of the big wall filter.
If I can recommend anything pick your spraying based on the weather.less humid days are best. those filters fill up quick without a drier in place.
 
I was going to ask this in the paint section but maybe you guys can answer.
I want to put a skim coat of Evercoat rage ultra on the fender.
Can I do this tomorrow?
I have read too many opinions on whether to wait the 4 days then scuff for mechanic adhesion or just give it 24 hours to cure a bit more then apply filler.
 
I usually go the mechanical adhesion route, less of a chance for an unwanted chemical reaction screwing your fender.
If you’ve got a bit of each to spare, spray a test panel and see if it reacts overnight.
 
The word from ppg tech line told me was within a week/72hour window you could fix smaller dings over it without scuffing it.
Call me old school but it doesn't take long to put some tooth in the panel for mechanical adhesion. Cheap insurance as epoxy doesn't really dry all that fast.the last thing you want is adhesion issues
 
I will wait then scuff.
Now the discussion of what to scuff with?
Scotch brite or 400 grit or ?
 
It doesn't scuff well and it's gonna need a decent scratch like any other substrate would that's getting filler,be it old paint,bare steel or a 2k primer. It needs to be abraded.
The idea behind epoxying an entire panel and doing body work along side of it is the majority of the epoxy will be sanded off in the bodywork process.yet it remains in areas where there's no need for filler.to get an idea of how well it DOESN'T sand,i worked with a guy that used to wet sand it with wax and grease remover.this guy was completely outta his mind @ every turn but it worked for him.
 
Don't you just hate wasting time. When you buy something that's supposed to fit and of course it doesn't. And you can't return it because you already cut it up?
These were supposed to be the correct upper and lower radiator hoses. The bottom hose is way too tight on idler arm bolt and the upper needs about an inch and a half more left to right length.
Arggggg. Maybe I'll have to use a flexible lower? Any and all suggestions. Thanks
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BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL. Thru 12/2 Everything (Including Calendars!!) in the shop is 20% off. use code BLACKFRIDAY24.

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